The Business of Magazines

[MDNA]

I don't know Italian, but it said Condé Nast Italy is to close all the magazines except Vogue?!

The original article
http://www.lettera43.it/it/articoli...ogue-salva-solo-la-testata-di-farneti/212601/

 

[MagFan]

not all but L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Vogue Sposa and Vogue Accessory
not a big lose, they were bad anyway

 

[MON]

Oh wow... talk about the Vogue Brand

 

[honeycombchild]

L'Uomo Vogue is a fairly big one to be closing I would say. Perhaps not from a figures point of view, but you can't deny the magazine garnered a fair amount of coverage around the globe and landed some high profile cover stars over the years.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Absolutely!! I'm shocked they are folding L'Uomo Vogue, not sure how it sold, but it is an Iconic male Fashion Title that has a long history. Even back in the 70s, I remember seeing those old issues on eBay, with cool cats like Robert Redford.etc on the cover, looking great.

 

[mepps]

Sort of shocked about L'Uomo Vogue, although I shouldn't be.
It's an iconic title in it's own way, but it lost focus a long time ago.
I never thought Franca paid enough attention to it, and sort of used it as filler for celebs. Vogue Bambini and the other two were always a waste of trees.

 

[Xone]

sad for L'uomo but it's not what it used to be honestly....

 

[Benn98]

For me they were always so hit-and-miss. One cover you absolutely had to have, the next a total snoozefest. And you'd be lucky to get good editorial content throughout. I do agree with Mepps that the L'Uomo never got GQ-level attention, and maybe that could have worked. Because I always got the idea that it was a supplement to VI.

With the rest I'm even surprised they lasted as long as they did. But Franca should be applauded for expanding the Vogue brand as widely (in Italy) and for as long as she did. She succeeded in a field where the mighty Anna, Alexandra and Carine/JJB couldn't.

 

[sixtdaily]

Justine Bellavita Named Editor in Chief of Vogue International, a New Role

Justine Bellavita has been named editor in chief of Vogue International, a newly created role that will see her lead the new Vogue International digital editorial team.

Bellavita, whose job will be to align the many Vogue international web sites, will take up the role in October and report to the president of Condé Nast International, Wolfgang Blau.

The job is based in London, and Condé Nast International said it will cover “all international aspects of fashion.” The new international team includes editors, reporters, interactive and video journalists, a social media and audience development team and a dedicated Snapchat team.

The team was created to “support and coordinate joint editorial projects and internationally relevant coverage for Vogue teams in Asia, Europe and Latin America,” Condé said.

“Justine Bellavita brings a wealth of experience, know-how, professionalism and talent to the role. She is a number one in the field of digital fashion journalism and ideal for leading our new central digital Vogue team,” said Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and chief executive of Condé Nast International.

Bellavita had been digital editor of Vogue Italia, working under Franca Sozzani. Condé said she doubled unique users to that site in her first year, before going on to launch the current iteration of Vogue.it.

She is currently editor of VanityFair.it, having overseen its editorial integration with the print team. She supervised its social media activities, branded content production and media partnerships.

Bellavita has also worked as a news and features writer in San Francisco, New York and Paris.

“This is a rare opportunity for any journalist, and I’m looking forward to working in collaboration with multiple Vogue teams around the world, playing a part in the continued success of Vogue now and for the future,” said Bellavita.

By Samantha Conti, wwd.com

 

[Phuel]

L’UOMO folding is a monumental tragedy in fashiondom.

It’s loss to me is what losing Italian Vogue would be to so many here. I grew up on L’UOMO. They were the drug and the high that shaped my fashion tastes and ambitions. It definitely wasn’t what it once was in its current state— but it’s still leagues above the other men’s publications with their brand of numbingly dumb what-to-wear templates: L'UOMO never stooped so low; never did forget it’s high fashion dreamscape, decadence and snobbery... I adore that about them. My mum threw out boxes of my magazines when I moved out, and most of these boxes contained L’UOMO 90s issues— probably the strongest era of this publication… sigh/sob/weep...

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^ Reading your comment makes me even more sad it's folding! People have been complaining its been bad in last few years, but i disagree. Some cover stories have been lackluster, but i always found an interesting ed in each issue. It was one of the best publication for men's fashion! I will miss it! In fact i often bought it alongside VI, and often felt it had more creativity!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ L'UOMO was such a complimentary extension of VI. With it folding, it's killing off the other half of a duo.

I suppose it makes sense that the most creative, the most distinctively high fashion and most unapologetically exclusive and bespoke vision of men’s fashion presentation is the one to go, in these days of corporate blandness that’s plagued the industry.

If I try to look the brighter side, from time to time, GQ Australia/Italy/Russia will produce the brand of edits that still cast classically handsome men— not boys, in gorgeous locations, and photographed with a cinematic sensibility. Of course, swish and ambiguity won’t ever be a part of the GQ-vocabulary LOL But the likes of American and British GQ I won’t even look at when it’s in front of me for free.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ BTW, when I was 15, L”UOMO was magical to me; I’d get excited for the new issue and the anticipation was tremendous LOL Just the thought of what was in stored visually— from the edits to the advertising (and sometimes L”UOMO came in a sealed wrapper cos there would be an supplementary issue— oh joy of joy LOL) was deliciously titillating. I would escape into this high fashion world that was contained and perfectly encapsulated within those premium-stock, velvety pages. I was like that kid escaping from harsh reality into another world from The Never Ending Story LOL

 

[magsaddict]

it's interesting to hear people's personal stories and memories of magazines when they close, it's definitely a reminder of the powerful role a great magazine can play in shaping who we are. L'UOMO is especially sad because in comparison to the crowded women's fashion magazine market, quality men's fashion magazines have always been scarce.

 

[Deleted member 141523]

This is kinda old, but here we go:


Condé Nast Italia Employees Announce Four-Day Strike
They will protest against the publishing company's decision to discontinue Vogue Italia sister publications L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Vogue Sposa and Vogue Accessories.

MILAN — Condé Nast Italia’s editorial committee decided to stand up for its rights and, following the company’s decision to discontinue Vogue Italia’s sister publications, initiated a four-day strike. By Alessandra Turra for WWD on August 3, 2017

Last Friday the Italian publishing firm told the company’s editorial committee that it plans to shut down L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Vogue Sposa and Vogue Accessories, which currently employ a total of 14 journalists.

Condé Nast Italia has told the committee that it will cut 40 jobs within the editorial group. In September, employees will be offered a severance package of 40 months’ pay to resign and then, in the last few months of the year, the company will proceed with layoffs.

“We might have to remind Condé Nast that a publishing company has to do business by investing and innovating products,” said Paolo Perucchini, president of Lombardy journalist’s association. “Closing titles and cutting jobs to make profits is just a mere financial ploy with a short-term vision.”

Four years ago, Condé Nast Italia and its employees signed a defensive job security agreement, which caused reductions in the working hours and pay of all the company’s employees, to avoid collective layoffs.

“From what we have seen so far, the cuts in the cost of editors only lead to the hiring of several external consultants and managing figures without the development of a long-term editorial strategy,” Condé Nast Italia’s journalist committee said in an official statement this week. In the statement, the group’s journalists also asked the company to conceive a serious strategy to relaunch its magazines in order to avoid further cuts across the editorial teams.

 

[Benn98]

“From what we have seen so far, the cuts in the cost of editors only lead to the hiring of several external consultants and managing figures without the development of a long-term editorial strategy,” Condé Nast Italia’s journalist committee said in an official statement this week.

They do have a point, I think. But only from an ethical stance. I don't think you can tell someone how to run their business. What CN seems to be doing in Italy is not unlike what we'll see in the UK. I don't think all Edward's hires will be permanent, for instance.

In September, employees will be offered a severance package of 40 months’ pay to resign and then, in the last few months of the year, the company will proceed with layoffs.

It still sounds like they'll be much, much better off than the employees at Lucky who got severance pay of 2 weeks. I'd advise them to take the money and run!

 

[GivenchyAddict]

LONDON, United Kingdom — BoF compiles the most important professional moves of the week.

(...)

Sunday Times Style magazine hires Verity Parker
The Sunday Times Style magazine has appointed Verity Parker as associate fashion director. Parker joins the publication from British Vogue, where she served as fashion editor since 2015. Prior to that, she worked as a freelance stylist.

InStyle Germany fashion director exits
InStyle Germany’s fashion director Jan-Michael Quammie has exited the publication. Quammie has worked at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, Net-a-Porter in Shanghai and MyTheresa in Munich. She will now pursue freelance styling, creative direction and brand consulting

source business of fashion

I was quite a fan of Verity's work at british vogue but happy for her new role !

 

[Benn98]

So now everyone in the fashion dept except Kate Phelan is gone?

Verity will definitely not enjoy the same sense of freedom she did under Alexandra because Lorraine Candy is slowly revamping that the Times Style supplement. She'll expect a very precise pov from Verity. But I'm sure she'll be fine.

 

[Benn98]

British Publications Post Uneven Performance

The British women's fashion magazine sector saw a decline in the first half.

By Lorelei Marfil on August 10, 2017

LONDON — It’s the never-ending story: The print magazine business is about managing decline — with a few exceptions.

According to figures posted by U.K.’s Audit Bureau of Circulations on Thursday, the British women’s fashion magazine sector saw a decline in the first half, with titles including Glamour and Tatler experiencing drops in circulation.

The overall circulation figure for women’s fashion titles in Britain declined 3.9 percent year-over-year to 4.9 million for print and digital. Print circulation for the sector fell 4.2 percent, while digital circulation was up 18.4 percent.

Among the women’s titles that saw their combined digital and print circulations rise were Harper’s Bazaar and Elle, both published by Hearst Magazines U.K. For Harper’s Bazaar, circulation rose 0.6 percent year-over-year to 111, 424, while Elle was up 0.2 percent to 172,193.

Elle and Harper’s Bazaar said circulation rose due to the publisher’s distribution strategy, which was introduced last year and incorporated strategies such as “pick-up” and “pop-up” spaces at shopping centers, movie theaters, festivals and selected airport gates and gyms.

Elle also collaborated with lookfantastic.com on a beauty box partnership and has teamed with movie theaters and upscale shopping destinations, while Harper’s Bazaar worked with the Victoria and Albert Museum and Kensington Palace. Distribution points for the latter also took place at events including the high-end art and jewelry fair Masterpiece London, RHS Chelsea Flower Show and Hearst’s Country Living Spring Fair.

“We believe print magazines have a unique ability to reach, influence and engage consumers,” said James Wildman, chief executive officer of Hearst U.K.

“We’re continuing to build loyal and engaged audiences through paid-for and dynamic channels, and our new research provides clear and compelling evidence that we’re attracting new readers. We’ve also worked extremely closely with ABC to incorporate and highlight our new routes to market in the certificate for the very first time, which is important to both our advertisers and trading partners,” he added.

At Condé Nast, Vanity Fair’s combined figure retreated 10.1 percent to 72,012, while Glamour was down 8.2 percent to 275,536. Tatler edged down 5.3 percent to 80,035, while Vogue U.K.fell 2.6 percent to 190,021. The magazine’s new editor, Edward Enninful, officially took the helm of the title earlier this month and his first issue will be December, landing on newsstands on Nov. 10.

Time Inc.’s Look declined 35.4 percent to 59,390. While Marie Claire’s year-over-year figure dipped 5.8 percent to 154,532, it saw an increase of 1 percent period-over-period after getting a revamp late last year. The publisher also noted a new distribution strategy for the glossy, focusing on the customers of Fabled by Marie Claire, an online and physical retail beauty business.

Men’s lifestyle titles also declined, with the category’s combined digital and print circulation down 1.7 percent to 964,275. Condé Nast U.K.’s Wired edged down 5.7 percent to 51,006 in its combined print and digital circulation year-over-year. Hearst’s Esquire retreated 4.1 percent to 62,051 while GQ was down 2.6 percent to 114,035.

Source: WWD.com

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^what about Dazed, I-D, Another ? I am really curious about their performance !