The New Gothic / Neogoth

[QuirkyCool]

Thank you DosViolines!! . Very Gothically designed site....there are some lovely pieces in the Winter 05 collection...I would just not have worn ALL of them with those lace tights!!

When I have more time I shall peruse SS06

 

[jennifer~]

^ Wonderful DosViolines... I love Maria Marta Facchinelli and shouldn't have overlooked her relevance to this thread..

 

[DosViolines]

source: style.com

Lemony Snicket's A Series of Unfortunate Events
Writing as Lemony Snicket, author Daniel Handler has created a best-selling series of delightfully macabre children's novels. This month, Snicket jumps to the big screen, with Jim Carrey and Meryl Streep as, respectively, cruel Count Olaf and Aunt Jospehine, left, guardians to the ill-fated Baudelaire siblings. Finally, a kid's movie that lets them know about the horror life really holds....

Amy Lee of Evanescence
She flexes a heavenly alto on "My Immortal" and "Bring Me to Life," but Grammy-winning Amy Lee of Evanescence sealed her goth-icon status with ripped-from-the-grave stage outfits that she designs herself.

Anywhere but Home by Evanescence two-disc CD-DVD, $25, available at music stores.
(Lee, left, with John LeCompt, Will Boyd, Terry Balsalmo, and Rocky Gray.)

Oyster Boy Figures
Even your worst day at work can't compare with the woes of the Pin Cushion Queen (stabbed all over), Brie Boy (noggin made of fromage), and the other hapless characters in Tim Burton's 1997 storybook, The Melancholy Death of Oyster Boy. The project has now reached official franchise status: The third set of vinyl figures based on the director's creepy illustrations have been issued in time to become this season's hot office accessories. Oyster Boy three-figure set, $15, available at www.ningyoushi.com.

Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo went on a power trip for spring, contrasting tough black leather jackets with tutus, including some vintage ones from the English National Ballet. But thanks to eye masks of white makeup, the effect was more Siouxsie Sioux than Madonna in her Desperately Seeking Susan days.

Face-off
Goth makeup—a mix of kabuki, eighteenth-century powder, and cosmetics for cadavers—is resurfacing in magazines from Pop to Paris Vogue. For the latter's October issue, hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist James Kaliardos transformed angelic Gemma Ward with tousled, close-to-the-head hair and white face paint built up in layers. The final effect? "A mix of Edward Scissorhands, Dario Argento, and Edward Gorey," Kaliardos said.

Gemma Ward in Balenciaga, Le Edition.

Gloomy Jewelry
Who knew the macabre could be so marketable? First Justin Giunta of Subversive Jewelry (a current fave with fashion editors) paired religious icons with caged pearls, left, on earrings. Now, in a sophisticated take on scary, Garrard has launched a line of mini-skull-adorned chains named after the most famous dead head in literature—poor Yorick, whose remains are handled by Hamlet to such memorable (and misquoted) effect.

Widow Maker earrings with caged pearls by Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry, $295, available at Gabrielle Carlson Studio, NYC, (212) 929-0234, and www.subversivejewelry.com.

D&G Ad Campaign
Steven Klein's eye-catching fall campaign for D&G is one part psychedelic, the other part goth. Kabuki, the makeup artist, imagined the models "tak[ing] pleasure in their ability to reinvent themselves and having the dedication to detail of a medieval monk." The unholy result? Neon rainbows over the eyes, and black tear drops.

Vosges Collection Noir, Siren Luisa Casati
The Marchesa Casati was infamous for her decadent parties and eccentric looks (chalky skin, crimson lips, India ink-ringed eyes). Now comes a line of chocolates by Vosges with her startling visage on the packaging and such appropriately noir ingredients as black salt caramel, bitter dark chocolate, and real pearls—an homage to the spendthrift's favorite jewel.

Vosges Collection Noir, Siren Luisa Casati, nine pieces, $49, available at www.vosgeschocolate.com and (888) 301-YUMM.

Marilyn Manson and Dita Von Teese
A marriage made in hell: shock rocker Marilyn Manson and the fashion world's favorite neo-burlesque pinup Dita Von Teese are planning a wedding at the German castle of Manson collaborator Gottfried Helnwein. The groom-to-be promises a "traditional" ceremony. You know the sort of thing: ritual sacrifices, Black Mass...

The Black Rider
It's official: the goth revival is global, extending even as far as sunny Australia. The Black Rider—that macabre stage milestone that stirred the combined talents of William S. Burroughs, Robert Wilson, Tom Waits, and Marianne Faithfull into its cult cauldron—opens in Sydney next month.

The Black Rider: The Casting of the Magic Bullets plays at Sydney Theatre from January 8 to 22, 2005; more information available at www.sydneytheatre.org.au.

Goth Sounds
According to fashion's favorite DJ, Javier Peral, the next wave in runway music will be what he calls "dark wave—electro, but with a very bleak tech sound." Sample the new sonic surroundings with Technova's hypnotic cover of Joy Division's "Atmosphere."

Electrosexual by Technova, $18, available at www.amazon.com and music stores.

The Trash Bag
With its pendant chains, crystal drops, medallions, beads, and safety pins, Nancy Bacich's bag is everything a goth magpie could wish for. Plus, the chain mail mesh is positively medieval.

Trash bag, $1,380, available at Maxfield's Los Angeles, (310) 274-8800, and by special order at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC, (212) 753-7300.

Amie Dicke
Amie Dicke really knows how to stick it to you. The critically acclaimed Dutch artist uses a knife to transform images torn from the pages of fashion magazines to ferocious, full-on effect.

Shiseido the Makeup, by Amie Dicke, 2004, cutouts and ink on magazine paper.

The Corset
Nothing helps you get that somewhat suggestive, centuries-old look like a corset—especially in black. For those who want to take a walk on the dark side, Wyeth (a Los Angeles label designed by displaced New Yorker Todd Magill) offers an ebony velvet "contemporary vintage" version that nips and tucks in style.

Black corseted Degas dress, $890, available at CoCo, NJ, (973) 233-0005.

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[DosViolines]

source: style.com

Chair for the Café Museum
The Adolf Loos kaffeehaus chair, first designed in 1900 and formerly available in a varnished natural wood, now comes in Tom Ford-worthy black. The effect is dark, distinguished, and—it is Austrian, after all—just a touch perverse.

Chair for the Café Museum by Adolf Loos, produced by Gebrüder Thonet, Vienna, $1,350, available at Neue Galerie, NYC, (212) 628-6200, and www.neuegalerie.org.

Karen Walker Jewelry
On sale: outsider status. Karen Walker, the New Zealand designer who is irresistibly drawn to the loner (not surprising, considering her geographic coordinates), launched her jewelry line this fall. It features ladylike elements, such as pearls and diamonds, beautifully subverted by skulls and cigarette butt charms.

Selected items available at I Heart, NYC, (212) 219-9265, and www.karenwalkerjewelry.com.

Peacock Hill
Artists Rob Pruitt and Jonathan Horowitz weren't what Fleischmanns, N.Y., would call typical weekenders. In 2003, the pair bought a 17-room Edwardian mansion in the Jewish resort community, painted it black, and began to turn it into a highly stylized haunted house, inspired by the Addams Family. "We saw the house as a set for a story that we created and cast ourselves in, about an eccentric homosexual couple who live in a big black house on a hill," they said. The duo also planned its obsolescence: After commissioning friends to create a permanent collection that would belong, museumlike, to the house, they sold it. A book of their "extreme decorating" experiments is being compiled. Prepare to get your spook on.

Mark Ryden
With a Pat the Bunny-meets-Seed of Chucky aesthetic, Mark Ryden's work has a hypnotic appeal that is as appalling as it is accomplished. (Marilyn Manson is a collector, natch.) For those in search of haunted celebrations, holiday or otherwise, Ryden's paintings are featured in two exhibitions: Frye Art Museum, Seattle, through February 12, 2005; Pasadena Museum of California Art, Pasadena, CA, February 26 to May 8, 2005.

Limited edition Blood CD in triptych package, by Stan (Wall of Voodoo) Ridgway and Mark Ryden, $33, available at www.goreydetails.com and (503) 256-3122.

Cinderalla
Gather round for the classic tale of an orphan and her wicked stepsisters... and how she digs up her dead father, butchers canaries to make yakitori, and falls in love with a zombie while searching for her bra. Powerpuff Girls similarities notwithstanding, Japanese artist Junko Mizuno's warped retelling of Cinderella is rife with dark, trippy touches. (To wit, our heroine leaves behind her eyeball in lieu of a glass slipper.) Junko Mizuno's Cinderalla, published by Viz, $16, available at www.ningyoushi.com.

 

[Elegance.Is.Refusal.]

DosViolines thanks for posting the article im actually glad this trend is still going i love it so much

 

[seasecrets]

i remember reading cinderalla! i loved it.

 

[seasecrets]

pictures from the graphic novel cinderalla.
http://www.animefringe.com/magazine/02.06/feature/4/index.php3

 

[DosViolines]

^ Thanks for posting these seasecrets

Very gothic Marcel Wanders speakers:

http://www.he-marcelwanders.com/

 

[Gincat]

you always post great stuff here, Dos. Thanks!

 

[Caramel]

^ Those speakers!!! Fantastic!

 

[TheSoCalledPrep]

I know

 

[lemeray]

Dita Von Teese perfectly defines the New Gothic.

 

[DosViolines]

Here are some scans I made from february's Elle (US)

Even though I think that most of what they featured in the article is more punk/rock than new goth, it's still a good excuse to keep the thread going

 

[Cinthia]

Dita Von Teese perfectly defines the New Gothic.

She's "burlesque" not "new gothic"


Thanks for the scans DosViolines vbmenu_register("postmenu_1360938", true); .I agree that it's more punk rock than new goth.

 

[GasolineRainbow]

The truth is, there is not one "New Gothic". In fact, there wasn't really a unified "Old Gothic". There are so many arguments about how goth's family tree. Did it start with the Renaissance, New Romanticism, "dark hippies" like Stevie Nicks and Jim Morrison, 60's art rebels like Nico and Lou Reed, or punks like Siouxsie Sioux? The "New Gothic" is embodied by cyber fashion, retro-Burlesque fashion, fashion industry insiders, Korn fans, just really diverse groups of people. Sometimes there's crossover, and sometimes there's seemingly nothing in common, aside from the Goth label.

 

[utopia]

The "New Gothic" is embodied by cyber fashion, retro-Burlesque fashion, fashion industry insiders, Korn fans, just really diverse groups of people. Sometimes there's crossover, and sometimes there's seemingly nothing in common, aside from the Goth label.

I would argue that the 'new' gothic that is making it's way through the trend circuits right now is actually a distinct move away from the cyber and korn fan influenced angsty high school goth that has been so commonly associated with the word since the early nineties. I've understood that the 'new' gothic is rather (contradictory to it's title of 'new') a revival of the original meaning of gothic...involving the heavy influence and inspiration of 18th and 19th century romanticism and mediaeval architecture. just my two cents.

 

[Kimkhuu]

Thanks a lot for the scans DosViolines!

I have a problem with the funny looking skull heads...: most of them look so blatantly fake and uninteresting....

 

[utopia]

ditto, thanks for the scans dosviolines I got the magazine for the plane trip and it was interesting to see their interpretation of this trend...though I agree, much more rock-inspired than I think the original trend intended to me. there were some really pretty pieces in there. I admit I liked some of the libertine printed pieces. the shapes and fabrics are really what makes this look. it's oh-so costumey, in a wonderful way.
that light green rochas jacket makes me melt. as does the junya/commes jacket and the proenza schouler blouse.

 

[jennifer~]

Here are some scans I made from february's Elle (US)

Even though I think that most of what they featured in the article is more punk/rock than new goth, it's still a good excuse to keep the thread going

Wonderful Indeed more 'punk/rock' overall, than what I'd maybe prefer... but nonetheless, some beautiful items in the Boutique... Maxfield: the jewellery, the Rochas and Balenciaga jackets and the pleasantly surprising rest, in particular the Libertine blouse

 

[softgrey]

thanks dosV...
i was thinking that the morphine generation stuff would look good in that spread and lo and behold there was a t-shirt......

i LOVE the rochas jkt with the upside down dragon flies......
and the comme trench...