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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by Atelier, Mar 5, 2004.
Excellent interview from today's WWD.
ATTELIER , THANKS FOR THE POST
BELIEVE ME OR NOT BUT I LIKE HIM VERY MUCH ( WHOOA NOWAY ??? )
I JUST HIGLIGTED SOME SECTIONS FROM HIS INTERVIEW AND THEY ARE LIKE LESSONS FOR NEW " DESIGNERS + BUSINESSMAN/WOMAN " ( FOR BOTH )
LESSONS FROM TOM FORD :
HERE YOU GO !
ON SERGE'S COMMENTS ON M.PRADA
TF : Quite honestly, I wasn’t amused, I was shocked. Unfortunately, I think that this is a very sort of clear indication of how naïve Serge is about our industry. Miuccia has a point of view, a vision with a purpose. Not only am I a great fan of what she does from a design standpoint, but a great fan in terms of the way she has been able to pinpoint her vision with Prada.
Which is also why, I have to say, I don’t quite understand a team strategy at Gucci. First of all, we have left out a few product categories here. I mean, what’s happening with watches, what’s happening with eyewear? What’s happening with jewelry, with home, with visual display? What’s happening with the ad campaigns? I mean, there are a lot of things that aren’t addressed by the people whose names have been mentioned.
TF: They’re still buying the point of view. And there are a lot of people who buy Gucci who don’t know who I am. That isn’t the point. There is a point of view, there is a focus, and that’s what comes from the designer.
ON STEFANO PILATI
TF: Stefano is someone at Saint Laurent who I have absolute and complete faith in. It takes a large set of skills to be a chief designer of a company. You have to be a talented designer but that’s only part of it. You also have to be articulate. You have to understand how to work with people. You have to have a vision and a point of view.
... It was an investment in the future, and I have to say I feel very proud of what we’ve done there, going from 163 licenses to the three licenses that we have now.
WWD: You said it was an investment in the future...
TF: And we told the press, too. I mean, the outside world knows that we aren’t supposed to break even until 2005, or be profitable before the end of 2005.
TF: Yes. We had, I don’t know, three or four really big hits at Saint Laurent and I was really pleased with those collections. I think that once the announcement was made that we were not staying the press made the fact that Saint Laurent is not profitable a focus. But as I said, that was the plan.
WWD: Do you resent it that some members of your staff choose to remain with the company?
TF: Not at all! Absolutely not! In fact, when things change, it’s often bad for some people, but it’s also an opportunity for other people. I’m a realist. There are so many people in this company with kids and families, and they need their jobs. I would like to see most people stay as long as they are well taken care of and they are happy.
ON BEING " CEO "
WWD: Talk was floated that you might eventually replace Domenico as ceo.
TF: It wasn’t so much floated; it was approved by the board that I would replace Domenico as ceo [upon his retirement.] And I was asked to replace Domenico by François Pinault.
WWD: So how did you get from that point only two years ago, to the approach of your very last show?
TF: That’s a very good question. I have to say that up until two weeks before this deal fell apart, Domenico and I thought that we were negotiating in good faith to continue the plan — the plan of succession that had been very carefully laid out by the board for us.
WWD: It seems so incredible ...
TF: It seemed incredible to us, too, which is why we never expected it to happen.
WWD: One rumor is that you were in negotiations asking for major money — $100 million.
TF: All I can say is that the financial settlement was done. We agreed to something for the next seven years. What I would have been paid for the next seven years would have been substantially less than I got for the previous five. Domenico also, but he was going to sign a two-year contract.
WWD: Why were you willing to do that?
TF: Because I love the company. I believe in it.
WWD: So money really had nothing to do with the whole thing?
TF: Money had absolutely nothing to do with it at all. It really was a question of control, and fortunately or unfortunately, I realized that I have nothing to learn about luxury from Serge Weinberg. I actually said this to Serge in a meeting and I think that put the nail in the coffin.
I have absolutely nothing against Serge as a person. I like him a lot. But I think that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. The path Serge will choose will be his own, and I wish him the best of luck. It’s not the path I would have chosen.
WWD: Have any of the designers you brought in — McQueen, Stella McCartney or Thomas Meier — expressed concern to you about what’s going to happen next, or have you talked to any of them?
TF: Of course I’ve talked to all of them because they are all very good friends and I talk to them quite often. Again, at this point in time, I mean, I’m really out of the picture.
WWD: Do you think PPR wants to build strong relationships with those businesses? Do you think they are interested in selling anybody?
TF: I have absolutely no idea. I certainly hope so, and I have to say that is probably the one thing I am deeply sad about: we brought all of these people into the company because we believe they would all become very successful businesses.
WWD: What do you think is your legacy to fashion?
TF: You talk about the star system at major brand houses ... but that’s not true because Karl [Lagerfeld] did it first. But I certainly seemed to have started a trend for designers coming to old houses, you know, Marc [Jacobs], John Galliano, Alexander McQueen — those were things that happened after we turned Gucci around.
AND THE CURTAIN !
I’m a commercial fashion designer. I never pretended to be anything other than that.
excuses for splitting this into a separate topic, but i really believe it worths its own
Well, as I've said in the other topic, Ford is dead on about his concerns regarding the splitting of the creative responsibilities resulting in a lack of brand coherence, and a host of neglected product categories.
I really *want* Gucci to continue to do well after his departure. But I'm really not sure. May be I should start selling everything I own that's made by them on eBay, while they're still worth some money.
thats a perfect great idea
i'd love him do something like this
(calling Tom as she types)
This is my favorite Fordism of the interview.
Lena, good call on giving this its own thread.
Orochian, there's no sense in ceasing your enjoyment of all that Gucci's been in the last decade. Wear it with pride!
tom seems like a cool guy
This is my favorite Fordism of the interview.[/b][/quote]
So, if he's never pretended to be anything other than a commercial fashion designer, what makes him think he can direct a film?
I miss him already ! This is when we fell in love...
Umm, may be because, like fashion, there's a major commercial component in the making of films? The newly awarded best film of the year at the Oscar's is a perfect example of a film that has both art and commerce artfully co-existing.
Why do some people INSIST on making commercial sound like a dirty word? IMO that's just a thin disguise for pretentiousness and elitism.
At least Tom Ford's commercial designs have good taste. Gucci's range of sterling silver jewelry is some some of the most beautiful of its kind I've ever seen - modern, sleek, and minimalist. It's an aesthetic that people can easily relate to and find desirable - and that's the essence of being successfully commercial.
Galliano puts cheesy slogans on his tees, neon leopard prints on his handbags, dices dingling from shoe laces, logos on the ankle of socks, and have no trouble selling them to hordes of di-whore brand slaves, and yet no one's accused him of being commercial around here. Is it because his kind of commercial smacks of tragically grotesque taste?
there is nothing wrong in being commercial
as for those silver Gucci's they were not designed by TF, he just edited.
actually i think i know the designer behind this line, its was really fantastic
i have something to say about commercialism...when there is a union of art and commerce...it is a beautiful thing...as you said, orochian, lotr was a masterpiece, (but it has been for the past two years as well, but it still didn't win...i think it should have won all three years..it wasn't one film, it was three...)
my point is that i think the reason some people-or at least i, get squeamish about the word commercial..is motive...
if your motive is to make piles and piles of money...then that's greed ...and greed is an ugly, ugly thing...it makes people monsters with crazy eyes...it frightens me more than any horror film could...
but if your motive is an expression of self, of emotion, of a point of view and your goal to make it commercial is so that your message reaches as many people as possible...then, to my mind, that is simply a more noble motive..
i have nothing against commercial success...i think many of these creative people in this world deserve it far more than, say, donald trump...whose only message is i'm rich and you're fired! (sory, but i can't believe that troll has his own tv show!).
that's the real reason ford had trouble at ysl...he tried to take over and make something that was historically the house of an artist, into a money machine...greed...you may call it business, but it's the way you go about it...
i think in a world full of anger, lust and greed...we all need some idealism and fantasy, which is what fashion has been able to provide for so many of us in the past...if it becomes too much about business, some of the magic goes away and fashion in general loses it's appeal...
Forget Ysl, it's a very scary thought to think about what all of Tom's time, energy and dedication to Gucci over the past 10+ years could result in. I have to agree with him, Gucci should not have three co-designers, no major fashion label should. Uh, as much as I love Gucci and Tom, in a way I kind of hope it does fail to match the success of T.F. and D.d.S. It kinda goes to what soft grey said about greed. PPR changed it from being about fashion with buisness interests to being fashion and buisness as equal parts. PPR was about the money, it will serve them right to have to struggle with Gucci . But then, it's like, what a waste. So much work and then ten years down the road it goes to s**t.
Oh well, might as well buy up any Gucci I can in the meantime.
R.I.P Gucci Fall/Winter 1995-Fall/Winter 2004
i agree with this completely...
and i agree with tf that gucci needs one person to give strong direction to the brand...while he might call that a designer...i might call it a stylist or marketing director or creative director...maybe even design director...maybe gucci plans to put someone in that position to direct all the designers, just the way ford used to...
... since i am new here ! i was being timid for open a different thread thank for splitting up ! LENA it 's just look better ,
yesterday i was quite busy at work and just write some messages on DICE KAYEK and went home
but I AM BACK WITH VENGEANCE !
i just can't figure out why people so angry to TOM FORD 'cause he's been a great businessman and ( i think Lena mentioned before ) great PR genius .
why people gave so much credit for Fashion Industry ? ( i didn't mean posting messages some forums regularly , )
if i would be a fashion designer , it would be a great , if i see people whould dressed what i desined .
it is so simple DESIGN + SELL that's what TOM FORD did last 14 years .
we are going fashions shows for BUY FASHION ! otherwise we will go ART MUSEUMS or BIENALS etc
am right on this ?
so let's MOVE ON
and wait for his first movie , i hope it won't be a diseaster like could mountain or other OSCARWORTHY BUT NOTHING TO SAY ABOUT movies ...
tealady have asked ?
So, if he's never pretended to be anything other than a commercial fashion designer, what makes him think he can direct a film?
and answer from TOM FORD himself ;
I understand what a tough business it is; I understand the pitfalls of it. But it is something I’ve always wanted to do, and you don’t often get the chance in life to make a career change at 42. I hope I have the strength to do that.
poor guy i almost cried for him he is going to be a " pensioner " on 1st of May , no need to worry about i 've extra room in my home for him we can fight all day long like all retired couples do
GOOD LUCK FOR TOMORROW TOM FORD YOU'LL BE MISSED
Commercial fashion designers sell things for money to the masses...'intellectual' or conceptual designers try to sell their ideas to gain kudos amongst those who are 'in the know'. Everyone's trying to sell something...
In deference to the multiplicity of opinons on Tom Ford here , wouldn't it be an idea to rename this site as the ' Tom Ford Spot ' , eg TFS ? !!! ( at least until after the Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche show tomorrow evening )
yuuuuuuuuppppppppp this is when i 1st felt in love with him those hipster pants, horse-bit enamel, kohl smoky eyes.. huhu reminded me of the old days..omy amberrrr i miss all those late 90's models.. shalom amber kristen mcmenamy kristy hume stella tennant..
I miss him already too.
i think that was most certainly an interesting interview... he is an amazing business man...