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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by dodencebt, Feb 7, 2018.
I knew they were going to do a major push on underwear but I'm surprised it took up such a major chunk of the show. I was also lead to believe it was meant to be launched Fall 2017, not Fall 2018.
The show however was spectacular. He really does nail his customer very well. His outerwear and dinner jackets are what really drives his menswear customer and it shows every season. I'm never bored by his mens outing. It always feels very fresh. This has so many Gucci elements from his hay-day so I'm glad he's carried on with what he intended to for the Womenswear S/S 18' and dived into his own archive and revived some elements that many of us loved back then.
All the brouhaha over the underwear, well I'm UNDER-whelmed. I could maaaayybe see myself go for the neutral ones, but definitely not the animal print ones. So tacky! But the logo is minimal a la CK and Balenciaga and that works. Hope there's also a logo at the back.
The rest of the clothing is your typical TF fare. High collars, turtleneck with suits, slim fit suits, but all with fresh materials and print. It's not a brand known for innovation.
10 years of Tom ford menswear...
One thing is sure, the Tom Ford man has really evolved. While the collections are less opulent, it is stil bold and in a way, while not challenging himself, we can feel a desire for him to challenge his clientele.
I love the metallics, the silk suits, the pants and some of the outerwear. I also love how more and more he is turning his brand into a new "Gucci by TF".
As for the underwear, it is classic Tom Ford. He managed to be tacky and also very commercial...This has nothing to do with Gucci SS1997. The watches are interesting...I don't know if a Cartier Tank like shape is really a good idea for a first launch.
Two bad notes: The cargo pants and the furs. I don't know i faux fur and shearling is really needed for a Tom Ford man customer. He should do like Hermes and maybe offer exotic leather pieces instead.
Oh really? Are you absolutely certain it's faux, Lola? Good if it's true. No need for exotic leathers, if you ask me. Hermes is already doing the most with their cruel accessories collection. It'll be chameleons and kangaroos next if they had their way!
Im always excited to see the tom ford menswear, this was really good, i can do without those sneakers/loafers/navyshoes.
im living for those shiny coated pieces. Plus the soundtrack <3
as for the underwear, well is always good to see shirtless models. im not that into those baggy boxers, people still use those?
He's turned Vegan.
He promised a more casual offering but I do think even the most 'sportswear' looking pieces are as slick as his eveningwear, probably because of all the shiny fabrics used throughout the collection. I'm not sure which man is going to buy very tight satin cargos, perhaps it would have helped to juxtapose some garment-dyed cotton pieces or denim next to all these shiny fabrics to really make this a statement about the Tom Ford brand offering a wider aesthetic offering to it's guy.
The color palette bears a lot of resemblance to Haider Ackermann's work at Berluti which can in a way be considered a natural competitor to a more fashionable Tom Ford menswear collection. Not sure if anybody else sees it but I do think Berluti does better casual clothes while Tom Ford's calling card really is the tailoring.
^^^ Haider is doing Tom Ford for Gucci in 2018 better than Tom is frankly. Haider’s designs are able to attract me without the need to be blatantly gaudy and crass— as Tom can tend to at times. Like he is here with those skinny, satin cargos and even more gaudy and more crass with those dinner jackets.
Having said that, Tom is still leagues and leagues ahead of every single men’s show that’s come before him in NYC; Which isn’t a hard feat by any means with the less than stellar generation of copycats that NYC is apparently flooded with. Still, so welcoming to see a presentation where every single piece has its own purpose and function rather than as a recycled gimmick that the rest of NYC menswear seem so fond of.
For some reasons, i don't see Berluti as a competitor for Tom Ford. Berluti is more Hermes. It's very casual, very quiet, luxurious but on mute. It is really for a more grown up clientele i would say...Even the tailoring is really relaxed and i think it works well as a total look.
Tom Ford has a younger clientele that is also quite bolder in it sartorial choices. You see it in his shows, he has young executives, rappers, entertainers and all because today a Tom Ford suit is like a Rolex. It says, i've made it!
They might be similar but i don't think they are targeting the same people even if a Tom Ford menswear customer might also be a Berluti shoes fan...But then again, Nicolas Ghesquiere has said that he buy cashmere sweaters from Tom Ford and he is attending Berluti shows. So who knows?
He has been vegan for a year and has decided to only use faux fur and food by-products furs such as shearling and cowhide.
But he is conflicted with faux fur because it's bad for the environment.
BUT, he is not letting go the leather and as you can see, exotic skin on shoes and accessories.
I think for menswear, maybe apart from shearling from time to time, fur is not that necessary.
I don't think that a menswear luxury customer at Tom Ford could be interested in buying a faux fur piece even if i applaud the risk and the fact that he is willing to challenge his own customer.
Faux fur works in womenswear because it can be fun. I don't think that's the case in menswear.
do men really need nude underwear? i mean the guys look great, but is a nude underwear for men really a necessity for the TF customer?
Tied to this collection, yes, it makes sense. It's certainly something more suited to Zucchelli's Calvin Klein (how I miss him! .) I like the fact that it's paired with a black waistband. Makes it more masculine.
I'm a stickler for anything nude-coloured, lol. What I loathe with a passion is black or multi-coloured underwear. White or nude is the way to go.
If there's something that makes no sense, and which most men probably won't go for, then it's the sheeny boxers!
I love the nude underwear, it's so chic.
The underwear is atrocious, and the clothes are tacky and out of touch as always.
Why can't he stay being filmmaker, fashion doesn't need this anymore.
I never liked TF menswear and its not now that I will start to like, even at Gucci. This so boring, ugly and "dated" in a bad way. I wish that he could do something more sophisticate and lusty like the womenswear, but I guess that these clothes have a good clientele, so I dont think that this gonna change anytime soon.
He is genius, but at womenswear.
He needs to get back to making clothes like he did in Gucci, which has a timeless youthful quality about them , now it just looks creepy I find. Though I feel if he puts more of an effort it would make a huge difference. Also I cannot deny the custom TF suits are the best in the business like his mountbatten suit.
When he is in his Gatsby meets 70s GQ mode, he puts out sublime menswear.