Traditional & Historical Ethnic Dress

^All the prints here are made by hand.. They're painting directly on to the fabric and they also use shibori technique, which is basically tie-dye

Mulletproof said:
I love the all-white molas, I think they're all from the Oaxaca region.. or perhaps Veracruz, I'm not sure.. but they're beautiful..
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If you ever see these all-white ones again, please take a picture of it for me
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Sounds interesting! I always these super coloured ones
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Marvelous thread, Gius. I've had to think about it for some time - what to contribute that really interests me among all the amazing traditional methods of creating fabric and structure, the decoration of the human body. So here's my first thought about incredible ethnic fashion that has never gone out of fashion for hundreds and hundreds of years. Because of its origin on the Silk Road, ikat has spread to many, many regions over a long period of time.

Ikats are the most visually dramatic woven textiles produced in Central Asia and have a history dating back to at least the seventeenth century. In Central Asia ikat is known as abr, which in Persian means 'cloud-like', because the motifs appear to float, their edges softly blending into the adjacent colours.

Ikat is a complex artistic technique used to create images on textiles. The term Ikat derives from the Malay work mengikat, meaning "to tie". The technique was perhaps developed in Western Asia during the first millennium A.D. Its distinctive feature is that the images are dyed onto the threads before they are placed on the loom and woven into the finished fabric, The threads are first secured to the dying frame and then sections of the design that are to remain undyed are wrapped with a dye-resistant fiber according to the requirements of the pattern. Once the portion of the design to be protected from the first color are tied off, the threads are removed from the frame and immersed in the dye. With the exception of white (the natural color of the thread), a separate dye bath is required for each color that appears in the finished textile, Before each bye bath, the threads are reattached to the frame and strips are cut away or added as necessary to ensure that the individual elements have the appropriate color in the final design. Even the most complex Ikat patterns are created solely through the tying and dyeing process.

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Entire article at the source: http://www.galenfrysinger.com/new_york_museum_ikat.htm. The first quote is from powerhousemuseum.com where you can search for anything under the sun!
 
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A contemporary Uzbek coat in ikat.

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kat coats are an integral component of textile art in Central Asia, practiced by both the Uzbek and Tadjik peoples. This particular coat is an Uzbek example, a particularly colorful example of the art form. The designs are classic. The weave features silk warps with cotton wefting, a characteristic of 19th century ikat weaving. This art form is explored in detail in various publications including "Ikat" by Andrew Hale & Kate FitzGibbon. There the entire process is explained as well as the cultural context in which these coats were made and used. Often, they were intended for women, though men too wore these sumptuous chapans, as they are called in local languages. Undoubtedly, this one was intended for use by a woman due to the style of cut of the coat, with a pinched waist. The people who prepared the dyes for silk weaving were often Jews, indigenous residents of Uzbekistan, who also wore such garments themselves. The coat is lined with a Russian cotton, a common cloth used for this purpose.

More information at the source: http://www.tribalsource.net/item11ikatcoat.html
 
Some of the patterns from Japan over the centuries are breathtaking.
Detail of Ikat pattern. Material: China grass. Ikat is called "kasuri" in Japanese. Edo Period, 19th Century. From Yaeyama, Okinawa

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mingeikan.or.jp
 
Last one for now... Child of the Double Ikat, from Bali Sacred & Secret by Gill Marais

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news.ubud.com
 
This is an interesting site with lots of examples of textiles from various traditions around the world. http://www.ethno-textile.com/index.php - examples of Mola and Ikat included! :flower: I just love all that lace, by the way, MP.
 
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This thread is absolutely beautiful.

This section is fast becoming my favorite part of the forums. :heart:
 
ahh gius, the textiles in post 20 are absolutely beautiful.. so rich in color.. :heart:
I love the Uzbek coat, somethingelse.. there's a man in a nearby town that has a store with all those middle-eastern goodies.. so many shawls, dresses and blouses.. the fabrics as usual are always eye-candy... and wallet-enemy. :P

not wednesday but I'm back with a few pics from Asia & the middle east. -_-

SIAMESE GIRLS (THAILAND)
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KYRGYZSTAN
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ARMENIA.
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KURDISTAN.
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BALOCHISTAN.
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TIBET.
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TRIPURA (INDIA)
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[all shot by me]
 
Asia continued...

...
KASHMIR REGION. :heart:
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AFHGAN MEN.
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INDIA.
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JAPAN
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AINU TRIBE (JAPAN)
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LAOS.
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BURMA.
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THAI WOMAN.
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BURMA.
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MALAYSAN MAN.
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[shot by me]
 
Spain 1922:heart:

Festal Costume La Alberca


Jarez Mantilla


Mule Ride

scanned by MMA
 
Sari styles

love the ikat, SomethingElse :P I always wondered why/how the graphics on the fabric look like that--it's kind of like 'motion blur'

The Sari
A sari / saree is the traditional female garment of the Indian subcontinent.[1] The sari is a very long strip of unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine metres in length, which can be draped in various styles. The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff.[1] The sari is usually worn over a petticoat (called lehnga/ghagra in northern India, pavada/pavadai in the south, and shaya in eastern India), with a blouse known as a choli/ ravika forming the upper garment. The choli has short sleeves with a low neck and is usually cropped, which is particularly well-suited for wear in the sultry South Asian summers. Office dress codes, however, prohibit cropped, sleeveless cholis; similarly, women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a half-sleeve shirt tucked in at the waist.
wikipedia

Mul style

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http://www.devi.net/Mul.html
http://www.cbmphoto.co.uk/saris/phsariBEST.html

Bengali style
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Kerala Mundu - 2 piece style
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Kaccha pants style
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Nivi style
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sarisafari
 
Gorgeous scans, MMA, I love Spanish traditional costumes .. :crush:

..nice pics, Gius, I think that's one of the reasons why I admire Dries so much, he's constantly inspired by ethnic fashion from all over the globe and seems to have a clear understanding and appreciation of the beauty and background behind them .. he makes such dignified adaptations and doesn't take it as a theme or something ironic or ridiculously exotic as other designers. lovelove. :blush: :heart:
 
I completely agree, Mulletproof :P It's just about creating something beautiful for him.. Laika and I are trying to figure out what he means for this collection--he says it's inspired by simply knotted Indian dresses that look expensive (according to the translator)..but these Indian saris have no knots; it is only draping, pleating and tucking. The draping effect is right on the point on Dries' though

Thanks MMA for the Spanish costumes !
I am trying to save them to my computer, but it doesn't work for some reason
I just get a blank image or a 'black dot' when I open the file
I'm just doing 'copy + paste' for now
 
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perhaps it's a mixture, gius?. Those Dries dresses resemble (for me) more the traditional costumes of the old Indochine region rather than Indian saris. I'm no expert, though. :ninja:

ARLÉSIENNES (PROVENCE, FRANCE). :heart:

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[camargue-photos.de]

Also inspiration for Christian Lacroix HC S/S 06...

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[style]
 
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I love seeing all these people in their traditional handmade clothes and jewelry. While I try to find my favorite silk, here is some interesting information about the sari from India.

The Indian Saree (a.k.a. Sari, Seere, Sadi) boasts of oldest existence in the sartorial world. It is more than 5000 years old! It is mentioned in Vedas, the oldest existing (surviving) literature (3000 B.C.) Patterns of dress change throughout the world now and then but, the Sari has survived because it is the main wear of rural India. 75% of the population (now a billion as per official estimate) wear versatile sari. We can certainly call this cloth versatile because it could be worn as shorts, trousers, flowing gown-like or convenient skirt-wise--all without a single stitch!

Saree (original--Chira in Sanskrit, cloth) is of varied length. From 5 yards to 9.5 yards tied loosely, folded and pleated, it could be turned into working dress or party-wear with manual skill. For day to day dress of middle class women, 5-6 yard sari is comfortable to manage household chores. Working class tucks the same length above the ankles and if they have to work in water or fields, they would tuck the front pleats between the legs to the back, and tie the upper portion round the waist. This left them free movement of hands and legs.

...An old or worn-out saree is equally utilitarian. Grandmothers used to stitch quilts folding soft and worn-out Sarees and putting bright new cloth on cover, for children which kept them warm. Worn-out thicker Sarees were used as bed covers or blankets in the cradle (as the babies wetted it frequently). For village women, folds of Sarees serve as pouches, bags and haversack to carry grocery and at times babies as well. Some used to make a stand-by cradle out of sree length for the baby. Tying the ends to a nearby tree. White Sarees could be turned into towels, napkins, diapers etc., even after they are worn out.

"The Sari, it is said, was born on the loom of a fanciful weaver. He dreamt of Woman. The shimmer of her tears. The drape of her tumbling hair. The colors of her many moods. The softness of her touch. All these he wove together. He couldn't stop. He wove for many yards. And when he was done, the story goes, he sat back and smiled and smiled and smiled."

kamat.com . museumshop.com
 
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I'm in Asia, looking for a specific silk which is eluding me. :doh: It will happen! In the meanwhile... a woman c. 1880 - 1910 Ceylon.

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India, Rajasthan: The Maharaja of Jodhpur, c. 1920

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A Tamil woman, Ceylon, c. 1880s-1910

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Charles Nouette, a Mandarin and his family, c. 1906.

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trocadero.com
 
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^very nice designs, this last one especially.. love the wide sleeves and also the length of some of the coats. plus lovely collars and how it closes just close to the side seam on a regular shirt (the girl in the centre). the whole thing reminds me of silhouettes i see more and more lately in the last couple of years

Northern Caucas



these top two are fans ...
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http://mith.ru/caucas/orn/index.htm
 

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