UK Vogue August 2018 : Oprah by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott

[Benn98]

I don't know why but the US/UK thing seems a bit different with Oprah. Of course she is famous around the world, and plenty of people in the UK know and like her. But unlike a famous actress or pop star, who have huge international appeal and aren't so specifically associated with being American, Australian or British etc., but more their music or films, Oprah is inextricably American. She was and is a huge part of American pop culture, and when I think Oprah I think: 'USA! USA!', of an all-American attitude and the American dream.

I'm not saying Oprah isn't interesting, or that her story isn't globally appealing, or that she isn't internationally famous; in fact I'm thrilled to see her here and can't wait to read her interview, I just think it's out of the blue.

Oprah isn't really in the public awareness here at the moment, she doesn't seem to be promoting anything and so the choice seems to be relying on the fact that she's "OPRAH", but Oprah isn't "OPRAH" in the UK, in the same way that she is in the states. I don't particularly care about that or think it's relevant, but it is the reason I feel she's a random choice. I think the combination of the fact that she is such an iconic figure in specifically American pop culture, coupled with the fact she isn't really promoting anything at the moment is what people are responding to.

Regardless of whether Oprah is a seemingly random choice, I love that she's on the cover and I'm by no means complaining about it. I really love that Edward is giving us unexpected cover stars, and not just featuring people with movies or albums to flog. It's great to see someone new on British Vogue, and I can't wait to get my copy.

Agreed with everything here! It's not to detract from her at all, just that the choice is odd. This cover would've been far more impactful for the US edition.

The subscriber's cover must be some sort of ode to the iconic Lara Stone x Carine cover. I don't think it works as much though.

 

[MON]

The subscribers’ cover is an eyesore. What a cheap knockoff of Lara Stone’s VP cover.

It doesn’t look good. The hand placement looks reall stiff and awkward. She seems like she’s looking down. Her head should’ve been held high. Not good. Pretentious at most.

 

[GinAndTonic]

Pretty gutted I’m gonna get the subscriber one! It seems to me the lace mask is really out of place. It has that sexy connotation that doesn’t work here at all. I much prefer the newstand cover. Might be a bit boring but it’s simple and elegant and fits oprah perfectly. I love it ans its vintage vibe.

 

[tigerrouge]

That subscriber cover ensures my copy is destined for the recycling bin, as there's no way I'm keeping that around.

 

[Benn98]

Edward Enninful's August Editor's Letter

by EDWARD ENNINFUL

Tuesday 3 July 2018

When it comes to public life today whether in fashion, politics or our highly engaged and opinionated lives online, it seems as if the list of faces who inspire almost universal joy and respect is getting shorter. Some days, this can feel like a sad state of affairs, so an extra cheer is in order for Vogue’s cover star.

Honestly, thank heavens for Oprah Winfrey. Over the past 30 or so years, the American journalist, talk-show host, network owner, producer, actress and philanthropist has become one of the most beloved presences on the world stage. Why? Sheer admiration for her journey from impoverished Mississippi schoolgirl to becoming her country’s first self-made black, female billionaire is crucial. But there is also a kind of a magic about Oprah – a connectivity that draws people to her – whether it’s through a television screen or for those lucky enough to spend time with her IRL (as our younger readers say these days).

When, last month, I had the great honour of being presented with the CFDA’s Media Award in New York, I was enormously touched that Oprah agreed to present it to me. She has been such a kind, vocal supporter of this magazine during the past few months, and really believes in its vision. So it was that she also agreed to grace our pages this month, in what I hope you will agree is one of the most spectacular shoots and interviews of her career.

Oprah doesn’t need to do press – she exists beyond the humdrum world of self-promotion – so it was especially good of her to talk with such candour about race, feminism, and the loves and losses in her own life with writer Decca Aitkenhead in “Oprah’s Next Act”. Meanwhile, on the eve of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s wedding (which she attended, of course), Oprah spent a day in the studio with myself and the British Vogue team to see how we could best honour America’s queen.

Of course, I wanted to do her as an empress. She is so magnificent, so awe-inspiring, and she really went with the idea. We approached six stars of British design to make bespoke fashions for her: Erdem, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. How fantastic to be able to put this global icon in a context that is so celebratory of British talent. Aside from that, Oprah absolutely loves clothes.

She walked in full of energy, filming us all on her phone for her Instagram stories, and was – as you would expect – the last word in professionalism. The photographers, Mert and Marcus, both fell in love with her. I remember Mert turning to me between shots at one point to say, “You can tell that goodness is emanating from her.” Personally, I think this has a lot to do with the fact that – aside from her many great achievements – Oprah is just herself all the time. We can all surely learn from that.

Source: Vogue.co.uk

 

[LastNight]

I think I'd like the subscriber cover more if it wasn't a rehash of that stunning Vogue Paris cover with Lara stone a few years back as others have mentioned (still dying to get my hands on that issue!)

My problem with subscriber covers in general is that they're so hit or miss. That's not to say newsstand covers aren't, but at least for most magazines there is a formula to them and I happen to like that consistency. I actually like the commerciality of newsstand covers when they're done well; I think there's an art to them and I happen to think the newsstand cover for this issue is lovely.

With subscriber covers, sometimes breaking free from the constraints of appealing to a passer-by in the shop works beautifully and other times it flops. I'd be ok if they stuck with the newsstand cover image with less text, like the June issue, but I hate when they swap it out for a sub-standard image that is more 'daring' just because they can. This one isn't that bad, but it could have been and I'm worried what they'll throw at us from now on.

I don't know why but I just really don't like having an alternate cover forced on me as a subscriber. If I had a choice I'd choose the newsstand cover 95% of the time. I'm already half tempted to cancel my subscription and just buy in the shop if they keep it up - I'll give it a few more issues and see what kind of quality they are, but I'm not happy about it.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Can’t believe he published that sub cover!! That should have stayed as an outtake reject that it is!

 

[MDNA]

That subscriber cover lol, she doesn’t need that kind of “edgy” look at all.

 

[Ken Doll Jenner]

"Personally, I think this has a lot to do with the fact that – aside from her many great achievements – Oprah is just herself all the time. We can all surely learn from that."

Oh yeah sure, I do believe that, Edward. She is just herself all the time except when she's on Mert and Alas' editing room.~

Contrary to what many said here, I actually think Edward's decision to put her on the cover is very bold. It's been 20 years I believe since her last Vogue cover? However, the shot that Edward chose is very underwhelming. I don't mind seeing another cover subject looking over her shoulder, but Oprah's expression looks odd, especially around the mouth area. This pales in comparison to her US Vogue cover with Steven Meisel in 1998. She served us some Michelle Obama glam circa December 2016 US Vogue there.

 

[YohjiAddict]

That lace mask has nothing to do with her public persona and it's downright silly, that without mentioning that the shape of it doesn't compliment her facial features. They should have published it on their instagram with an ironic "50 Shades of Oprah" caption and be done with it, it needn't be published this mess...

 

[Les_Sucettes]

Agreed with everything here! It's not to detract from her at all, just that the choice is odd. This cover would've been far more impactful for the US edition.
.

I find it an odd choice also. No one is disputing that Oprah is a global celebrity, but in Europe she's clearly highly respected more for the awe she inspires in Americans than for anything she ever said, I doubt most people even know exactly what she does. Her message and type of delivery are simply not suited to European cynicism.
Said that, I do not doubt this will sell well (who but the under 10's cares about Ariana Grande?) but I do not think this push for the Americanisation of a British magazine is wholly flattering to Edward.

I'm sorry i can't unseen the subscribers cover.

 

[Benn98]

.....but I do not think this push for the Americanisation of a British magazine is wholly flattering to Edward..

Bingo, and karma!

You can read similar charges about Anna Wintours's Anglification of American Vogue stretching back to the inception of this forum......

 

[Lola701]

Maybe having Oprah in the cover is a way for Edward to make the magazine more international and not limitate his audience to the Uk market. It shows also that he had the potential or at least the ambition to lead the US version.

With Oprah on the cover, I can totally see Meghan getting one later.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

Maybe having Oprah in the cover is a way for Edward to make the magazine more international and not limitate his audience to the Uk market. It shows also that he had the potential or at least the ambition to lead the US version.

With Oprah on the cover, I can totally see Meghan getting one later.

But by making it more American, he is not making it more international, he's simply making it...more American. Gone are the days that American culture a was point of reference for everyone. If he still thinks like that his grasp of popular culture is totally outdated.

I do not think he should use a magazine with the history of British Vogue as a stepping stone to another job, that shows a total lack of respect for the readers.

 

[Bahiyya]

But by making it more American, he is not making it more international, he's simply making it...more American. Gone are the days that American culture a was point of reference for everyone. If he still thinks like that his grasp of popular culture is totally outdated.

I do not think he should use a magazine with the history of British Vogue as a stepping stone to another job, that shows a total lack of respect for the readers.

That's an exaggeration, IMO. While there is definitely more of a jostle on the international media stage in the past two decades, USA culture is still more global than any others at this point. Certain aspects of other country's media (and therefore culture) have gained international currency but I can't think of one that has comparable global penetration on all fronts, whether it's film, music, literature, politics etc. You may not exactly know what Oprah does but you still know she's Oprah (tm). Whether she's the part of US culture that still has international appeal...? The more relevant nuance is that its dominance is no longer seen as the default. Increased access to more international and even one's own local fare means that one can recognise its dominance but still ignore it.

Sub cover is funny I appreciate the intent to do something different with her.

 

[HeatherAnne]

I agree completely with Les_Sucettes, I don't understand why Enninful has made British Vogue so generic, it was one of the last Vogues with a national identity and it's sad to see it and Vogue Italia quickly slide down into irrelevancy.


Oprah does look stunning here though, no doubt.

 

[mepps]

That's an exaggeration, IMO. While there is definitely more of a jostle on the international media stage in the past two decades, USA culture is still more global than any others at this point. Certain aspects of other country's media (and therefore culture) have gained international currency but I can't think of one that has comparable global penetration on all fronts, whether it's film, music, literature, politics etc. You may not exactly know what Oprah does but you still know she's Oprah (tm). Whether she's the part of US culture that still has international appeal...? The more relevant nuance is that its dominance is no longer seen as the default. Increased access to more international and even one's own local fare means that one can recognise its dominance but still ignore it.

Sub cover is funny I appreciate the intent to do something different with her.

Nailed it.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

That's an exaggeration, IMO. While there is definitely more of a jostle on the international media stage in the past two decades, USA culture is still more global than any others at this point. Certain aspects of other country's media (and therefore culture) have gained international currency but I can't think of one that has comparable global penetration on all fronts, whether it's film, music, literature, politics etc. You may not exactly know what Oprah does but you still know she's Oprah (tm). Whether she's the part of US culture that still has international appeal...? The more relevant nuance is that its dominance is no longer seen as the default. Increased access to more international and even one's own local fare means that one can recognise its dominance but still ignore it.

Sub cover is funny I appreciate the intent to do something different with her.

But I never said that any other culture replaced that dominance. Simply that by making it more American you are not making it more universal anymore, regardless of the level of American visibility . People’s influences are much more broad and at the same time much more local, people’s interest in their own culture, the discovery and difusion of their own uniqueness is what is shaping things now. The time when people identified with the US as some sort of standard western culture does not exist anymore. That embrace is gone. You may know Oprah, it does not mean you do not regard her as the “other”, and that there won’t be a sort of disconnect in the level of interest you might have in her.

 

[Xone]

i think Edward needs to stop listening to his ego. He proves that the title is a little big for him so far. Agreed with everyone that this suits better American Vogue.
I still remember the part of the September Issue with Anna W and Edward...

 

[KoV]

I think this is the best photo of Oprah I have ever seen! Gorgeous cover