UK Vogue January 2017 : Ashley Graham by Patrick Demarchelier

[Benn98]

Maybe it's time to ditch these colour block stories, it's never doing any of these new models favours. Maybe these girls just don't know how to pose against such a plain setting. Love Phelan's styling here, these dresses look lovely, but not impressed with Frederikke at all. The third last shot is easily her worst.

From Alexandra Shulman's editor's letter this month:

The shoot was put together fairly last-minute and we are all very grateful to the people at Coach who, under the creative direction of Stuart Vevers, moved speedily to provide clothes for us that had to come from outside their sample range. They were enthusiastic about dressing a woman who is not a standard model, but sadly there were other houses that flatly refused to lend us their clothes. It seems strange to me that while the rest of the world is desperate for fashion to embrace broader definitions of physical beauty, some of our most famous fashion brands appear to be travelling in the opposite – and, in my opinion, unwise – direction.

Great for Coach and I'm very impressed with them, but I still loathe that jacket. Alexandra should just go one step further and name these brands who won't modify samples. She loves Prada, and definitely would've approached that brand for clothes.

 

[Nymphaea]

^Oh yes, I want names!

 

[anlabe32]

I want names as well..

Btw Lexi's ed is gorgeous. Didn't expect that from her and Testino.

 

[Srdjan]

I bet Frederikke's shots were meant for the cover, the editorial is totally cover made, but they got Ashley at the last minute (which the editor's letter confirm) and went with her.

 

[honeycombchild]

You won't get names until she leaves Vogue and presumably, the world of fashion. They have her over a barrel for the most part. She's needs their advertising money and she needs their product for every other issue.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Reading her letter about how brands refused to dress Ashley is just so F***ing sad! It shows how hard it is to change things in this industry!

But the cover story is stunning, and really celebrates her, and her body! And in fact for January, this issue has plenty of content. I like it.

 

[tigerrouge]

I wouldn't have minded Frederikke for the cover - it's the sort of thing UK Vogue would do, give a new model the cover of one of the lesser months.

As for the actual cover story, for everyone who likes it and approves of the move, there'll be an equal number of people wondering why Ashley, and what she represents, is being applauded.

And there's a good chance the storyline will play out the same way as it's ever done, Sophie Dahl, Crystal Renn etc. Become a hot topic, fly the flag, and grab your covers and campaigns for a year or so - but then adapt to the rules to have a career that lasts longer than the headlines.

 

[lucy92]

I think the editors note was a little deceptive.

There are many many reasons why a brand won't lend samples for a shoot.

Press relations officers are nearly always filled in on what other brands are used for a editorial and especially what other brands may appear in the same look. If there's a competing brand/designer being featured they may be reluctant to release the sample.

Also these shoots are shots months ahead of when an item is available in all size ranges. many larger sized items won't be available until a full production run is completed and in the country. 90% of well known brands use cargo freight not air freight which is much faster. (Jcrew is one of the exceptions i believe).

The samples are simply not there or are being withheld for branding reasons.

Also, keep in mind that Ashley Graham has her own plus size clothing line to promote - Beyond by Ashley Graham. She's not going to discuss how wonderful another brand is unless they pay her.

 

[MON]

Assuming what Alex said was true, what happened is very telling of two things...

Like what Miss Dalloway said, this really shows how hard it is to change things in this industry. It is seriously outraging. We're close to 2017 and this still exists. I'd leave it at that since I feel like I'm going to break rules if I further discuss on the matter.

In my honest and fair opinion, this is very telling of the magazine industry. I don't want to be Mr. Comparison here, but do you all think that this incident (houses refusing) would have happened to Anna or Franca, or at the very least, to Alt?

 

[Jacque Marcel]

She looks vey pretty on the cover. A Cindy Crawford, Carre Otis vibe.

 

[tigerrouge]

do you all think that this incident (houses refusing) would have happened to Anna or Franca, or at the very least, to Alt?

Does the fault lie in discrimination or lack of planning? Would this happen if you planned a cover feature more concretely and gave others more time and opportunity to contribute? And how easy is it to make excuses, and say the shortcomings of your own decisions are the fault of someone else?

On one hand, I am aware Alexandra Shulman has voiced her concern in the past about representation, and the impression magazines can make on young people. By putting Ashley on the cover, she's doing something.

Yet we're also aware she constantly dismisses the issue of racial representation, forever citing population statistics about minorities - as if there's only three black people in Britain, therefore Vogue doesn't have to speak to them, because they don't constitute a big enough audience.

Fair enough, maybe she prefers one battle over another. Maybe she prefers one bandwagon over another.

 

[Lola701]

I don't even want to comment on the cover. It looks like Marie Claire.
I'm more concerned by the editor letter.
This is the second time in such a short period that she writes about big designers who don't want to collaborate on the size issue.

I know it's true and i know it's a real issue. Basically, in high fashion, the only way to dress properly if you're plus sized is Couture or custom Made. Yes big size are available but it's limited to certain types of bodies.

What i don't understand is how someone like Alexandra is having problems to get clothes. American Vogue is maybe the most consistent in using non-model-size people on it cover and they always get the big names.

Plus, it's ridiculous to expect from designers such a thing for a January issue. Fashion week ended in early October so technically, this must have been shot between mid-October to mid-November....It's almost impossible to get more sizes than the actual sample sizes.

And i have a hard time understanding Vogue Uk. Like Tigerrouge said, Vogue Uk hasn't really been a big advocate on embracing diversity. They weren't neither about body types...
They also have a weird definition of "Real women"...(If such a thing exist).

I'm sorry but since the documentary, it's really hard for me to take this publication seriously.

 

[kokobombon]

The digital issue is out.
The complaint about samples feels more like a publicity stunt that anything else imo. Ashley´s wearing clothes by Isabel Marant, Giorgio Armani, Rodarte, Jil Sander and Burberry amongst others.
While I think it´s true about fashion houses and plus sizes, it´s not like every big name refuse or didn´t provide bigger samples.
Anyway, the editorial is crap imo, she´s looking pissed in almost every pic.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Same story recycled plus size model not getting lent samples, zZZzz, NEXT!!

 

[Les_Sucettes]

As for the actual cover story, for everyone who likes it and approves of the move, there'll be an equal number of people wondering why Ashley, and what she represents, is being applauded.

.

Well i can only see a bad model being chosen for a cover because she has a "token" body. It's always the same, you choose a girl from the pool of those that are plus size but have an angular face and then create a career based solely on that. Something that actually defeats the purpose but makes fashion editors feel good about themselves.

Not being a "standard size" means nothing in my book, when buying a magazine or i like what i see or I don't. Someone like Crystal Renn won me over because of the quality of her work, this girl on the other hand has nothing to offer besides a "story".

 

[Melancholybaby]

I am so happy with who I am
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Stylist: Clare Richardson
Model: Ashley Graham
Make-Up: Sally Branka
Hair: Christiaan


Vogue UK Digital Edition

 

[ellastica]

So we're Ashley's clothes custom made especially made for this shoot?

It'd be interesting to learn which high fashion runway designers actually accommodate larger sizes. I presume the list is pretty short!

I've always been intrigued by the concept of designing for Plus size and Petit clothing lines. I imagine there's many different philosophical approaches, nuances and considerations outside of the obvious make the hem shorter or waistband bigger.

As a petit woman it's always been a struggle finding clothes that fit my tiny frame. It really comes down to the cut! If I had talent as a seamstress I would love to design garments for Petit and Plus size body types, jeans especially.

Growing up in the 90s I remember shopping in the "Woman's World" department with my grandmother and thinking how heinous and incredibly unflattering (and tent like) the vast majority of those garments were! The patterns too busy, silhouettes too baggy, too tight in all the wrong places. Judging by the looks in this editorial I can't say the designs have improved much. Perhaps Ashley's new line will help remedy this?

 

[honeycombchild]

If there was enough time and planning put into the shoot, had the designers wished to contribute they could have had samples made in the correct sizing. They may not have sizing available if this was perhaps a last minute booking for a cover but had it run its natural course and been shot and organised a few months ago brands who wished to partake (like Coach did) could have had pieces made for her. There are of course designers who probably said no for other reasons, other brands that were going to be featured etc, etc.

When Adele first arrived on the scene designers wouldn't dress her and now she's wearing custom made Burberry, Givenchy etc. So these high profile names can and do make specialist items in the size, perhaps it was something to do with the choice of star for the cover. Had it been a call in for Adele for example you can guarantee the brands would have had something to send in for her, even if it meant having to rush through custom made pieces.

 

[MON]

My goodness that editorial is horrible. Why is she angry?

 

[Benn98]

When Adele first arrived on the scene designers wouldn't dress her and now she's wearing custom made Burberry, Givenchy etc. So these high profile names can and do make specialist items in the size, perhaps it was something to do with the choice of star for the cover. Had it been a call in for Adele for example you can guarantee the brands would have had something to send in for her, even if it meant having to rush through custom made pieces.

I agree with this theory, and the conclusion ultimately still leaves a bitter aftertaste. For a brand to pick and choose who they'll customise for isnt diversity at all.
Also, how does Ashley's clothing line even factor into the argument? Gwen Stefani, Jennifer Lopez and the like all had lines, never prevented them for getting covers or clothing for events. Besides that, it's very rare for Vogue cover stars to comment on the styling of their editorial.
The overwhelming majority of British Vogue's covers feature head to toe looks anyway, so here too there's no risk of having to share credits with a competitor.