US Vogue August 1998 : Carolyn Murphy by Steven Meisel | the Fashion Spot

US Vogue August 1998 : Carolyn Murphy by Steven Meisel

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Corporate Chic
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Fashion Editorial: Grace Coddington
Hair Styling: Garren
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Models: Angela Lindvall and Carolyn Murphy



Vogue Archive
 
The Bohemian Life
Photographer: Ellen von Unwerth
Fashion Editor: Paul Cavaco
Hair Styling: Ward
Makeup: James Kaliardos
Models: Bridget Hall and Gisele Bündchen


Vogue Archive
 
The Downtown Scene
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson
Hair Styling: Jimmy Paul
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Models: Audrey Marnay, Karen Elson, Erin O'Connor and Maggie Rizer


Vogue Archive
 
Teen Tribes
Photographer: Irving Penn
Fashion Editor: Phyllis Posnick
Cast: Darielle Gilad, Marylisabeth Dona, Sid X, Kim Hicks, Allison Luongo, Sören du Hoffman, Stephanie Lyons, Peter Johnston and Bilyana Gohard


Vogue Archive
 
Flower Girl
Photographer: Pamela Hanson
Sittings Editor: Hamish Bowles
Hair Styling: Orlando Pita
Makeup: Mark Carrasquillo
Model: Amber Valletta


Vogue Archive
 
Fashion quality might have declined in the recent years, but one thing am happy about is more diversity. This era was really one note!
 
^^^ Oh come on-- that’s one issue with an all-White cast. Admittedly, MOC were still in the minority in these castings, but just have a gander at other issues of the same year,/era and there are MOC presented. Those were the days when talent was represented by talent, beauty was represented by beauty— without the need to highlight headcounts...

It’s such a pleasure to be reminded of a time when the August issue was a prelude to the September issue: For those in the western hemisphere, the cozy and warmth of the autumn mood was so masterfully portrayed in the August issue. A very commercial issue and still very much classically deep in Vogue. Meisel’s “The Downtown Scene” is so irresistibly classic American Vogue, you can smell the NYC afternoon air.
 
^^^ Oh come on-- that’s one issue with an all-White cast. Admittedly, MOC were still in the minority in these castings, but just have a gander at other issues of the same year,/era and there are MOC presented.

I went through the 1998 and 1999 issues reviewed in this forum and there were just a handful of editorials with black models. The only model with a solo edit (2) was Naomi Campbell; 3-4 multi-girl edits had black models (Naomi again, plus Oluchi Onweagba and Kiara Kabukuru.)

A pretty strong contrast to the past couple years for Vogue US
 
^^^ Of course there weren’t as much Black presence then as there is now— I don’t feel anyone’s denying this. But Black models then were memorable and they did make an impression nonetheless, with the majority of them making a name for themselves without any hype. So why this condemnation revision of fashion’s past now as lacking Black models by the media??? …Where’s the condemnation for the lack of Brown/Asian/Latin/Hispanic models??? And the Hispanic population in the US have always been prominent and 2nd to the White population, so when diversity-and-inclusivity advocates harp on about representation, then there really should be more Hispanic/Latin presence if we’re truly talking about equal “representation”. (Or if we’re talking about spending power in the luxury sector, then Asians and ME presence should be much stronger as well…) But it’s never been about equality.

As for the dominance of Black models in the last couple of years, good for them since they’re on trend in the current fashion climate, they should take advantage of all the opportunities any way that they can; this is such a cutthroat industry and it’s never kinder or even fair— no matter how the industry want to rebrand its image. But will the majority of the new army of Black models make a name for themselves and have staying power like the “handful” from the 90s? I doubt it as they don’t seem to have any versatility (hello Adut/Anok/Malika!) and the new hyped photographers/designers/stylists aren’t creating the brand of imagery that’s remotely memorable. Frankly, I'll take quality of talent over quantity of representation, but people these days seem obsessed with headcount over talent/creativity/innovation. Weird how the industry has turned into the government sector where representation rules over qualification.
 

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