Vêtements F/W 14.15 Look-Book

[Scott]

very heavy margiela and helmut lang influences but somehow i really like how they've captured that spirit without looking like a colossal joke.



*thekinsky.com

 

[Scott]

 

[Psylocke]

I like all the outfits where the proportions and fit are so deliberately off. This collection is creepy, I like it!

 

[Scott]

yeah a lot of those exaggerated lengths and layerings are very reminiscent of what margiela did in the 90's. and i adore when sleeves drip below my hands but have a fitted structure to them. there's a certain comfort about that but elegant at the same time.

 

[softgrey]

the influences are quite clear...
but it's really really good and stands up on its own...

i LOVE the "body stocking"...
that is SO good...
i can't believe it hasn't been done before...
but i can't think of anyone doing it in the past...
it's such a great and simple idea...

LOVE it...

thanks again scott...



never heard of that kinsky site and never would have seen this without your posting here...


that first coat is too good for words...
all i have been thinking about are these big oversized coats that i had in the 80's..
they are long gone- i can't even remember what happened to them...
but, yeah...
we would go to the thrift stores and wear big men's coats ...
big and boxy and oversized...
and i always loved the idea of cutting one down and tailoring it, but leaving the oversized feeling...

this is it~!!!
and at JUST the right moment...
it's good that margiela and helmut have someone to carry the baton forward now that they are absent from fashion...
it's certainly good for the customers who lost those two geniuses...

this is good...
very good...
yay!

 

[Scott]

you know you look back at some of the influences utilised here and you just think how timeless those ideas and practices really were. i think that's why i feel like this is such a great interpretation and i agree wholeheartedly….we've been searching for somebody so long….anybody really to carry the torch and with so many we thought might,having stopped designing…this kind of collection feels so right and appropriate right now especially coming from such a precocious label. maybe that tide is steadily beginning to steadily turn now??

btw your regale on thrift shops was so me in the 2000's…haha…i was scouring thrift shops all the time for well-worn jeans and oversized coats,jackets and biker jackets all the time.

 

[vetements]

Scott thanks for this posts. It's amazing how some ideas just never get lost in time, it doesn't look dated one bit although I could also see the strong margiela influence here...
Btw, is this by wim neels?

 

[Scott]

finally found their website…whew! i was searching and searching for some background and apparently the designers prefer to remain anonymous(very MM) though from that you can tell more than one and all met while at MMM. so that kind of explains the influence here.

*wwd.com via vetementswebsite.com

you can also check the remaining autumn collection here-

http://vetementswebsite.com/collection/

 

[vetements]

Thanks Scott for the research, am sure it ain't easy, they seem elusive...
But ever since the demise of Margiela, this is really the next best thing that has happened.

 

[Scott]

isn't it refreshing in this day and age where personalities seems have become more important than the work,to have a bit of that elusiveness and mystery again? but i agree,between this,the work glenn martens is doing overall and the young japanese designer kei ninomiya who designs noir for CdG,by far the most interesting and most esoteric work i've seen in a long time….from new designers that is.

 

[amak]

Missing a look, my personal favourite!!!

http://www.thekinsky.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/LOOK-09-001-copy-683x1024.jpeg

 

[IZ uS]

amazing. I LOVE how natural it all feels. fun aswell.

 

[Phuel]

Thanks for the post Scott.

Also reminds me of early Demeulemeester.

They get how to work their influences with a very distinct individuality that's far and away from current trends-- or the need to be so desperately different from the current trends, just to be different. It feels and looks as if they've taken vintage Margiela and recut it for the current times-- much the same way Martin would take vintage ballgowns and sheepskin jackets from the 1950s and recut them in his own way, for the times.

There's an authenticity, and a genuine progression of thoughtful design that comes from the desire for modern wear that grows with the individual, and also happens to look great (and hopefully well-made), rather than just the desire for "fashion". It's not disposable fashion that becomes dated with the next trend. Martin, Helmut, Ann, Jean Colonna and Dries had/ has that effortless quality with their designs. And like their designs, this doesn't scream "instant statement fashion". It's up to the wearer to make their individual statement with their types of designs. I admire that a lot.

 

[softgrey]

reference photo from their blog...http://vetementswebsite.com/blog/
yep- those were the 80's...
talking heads...david byrne...


never gets old...

...

thanks for finding that and posting it scott...
it does smack a little of MMM for H&M...
one gets the feeling that they worked on that project...
i'd say this has a great deal of potential...

MMM is basically just knocking off margiela now that he's gone from the brand anyway...
if these guys have been responsible for creating those knock offs...
why shouldn't they just do it for themselves and keep the credit and the profit, rather than give it to the label...??
i think the pants work well in leather- not so much in denim...
and the boots look like they are crazy soft leather, which is yummy...
mostly though- it's about those big boxy coats...

i'll def be keeping an eye out for them...

 

[Scott]

i'd love to know more on their background at MMM just in terms of a timeline because i kind of feel a lot of this is akin to a lot of the early noughties stuff MM was doing with some nods to his 90's play on layering. it doesn't feel over-exaggerated to me as the stuff that has and is being produced post-MM….if feels genuine not contrived. i've seen a few designers come from that particular late 90's-early 00's era(remember catherine giacomini and marjolijn van den heuvel?) and they have a lot of similar techniques. but i agree…no sense in being a puppet for what MMM has transpired into today when you can do it all your own and take the credit yourself. frankly they seem much more aligned with the spirit of MM than i've seen anybody doing at MMM lately.

 

[Psylocke]

Layers London just announced on their blog that they will be carrying the line. These guys sure are off to a great start, garnering a lot of buzz for a small independent designer team!

VETEMENTS COMING TO LAYERS
Posted on 14 May 2014 by LAYERSLONDON

A new, very exciting label is coming to LAYERS next season. Vetements was created by a collective of seven designers, all of whom were also part of Maison Martin Margiela team.

Our favourite fashion news source BoF has put the label under it’s spotlight:
“There is something paradoxical about a label whose generic name, intended to steer attention towards the garments it produces (vetements is French for clothes), instead, prompts instant curiosity about the people behind it. Indeed, in a city dominated by large luxury houses helmed by prominent designers, each with their personal vision, womenswear ready-to-wear label Vetements quietly stands out for its anonymous and customer-centric approach.
“We decided to think, firstly, of all of the women we wanted to dress, what their preferences are, what length for a skirt, what kind of tailoring shapes, what colours, what essential garments. We thought of our friends, of real people we know and what they would want to wear,” say the seven designers behind the label, who insist on anonymity and communicate as a collective.” |

https://www.layerslondon.com/blog/features/vetements-coming-to-layers/

And they are quoting from this article:

http://www.businessoffashion.com/2014/05/spotlight-vetements-stays-focused-clothes.html

 

[softgrey]

i think i've been to that store...
it's a weird store...

...
nice, but odd...
very goth, with metal hangers and such...

does seem like a good fit for this new collection though...
thanks for the info miss P!

 

[Psylocke]

You're welcome, softgrey!
Layers used to be right across the street from the Yohji store in London, no? ink: I haven't been to the store since they moved, but yeah, they've always had an interesting selection of designer brands and I'm not too surprised they're going to carry this line! And they have an online store too, so that's cool

 

[Scott]

yeah i just saw the BoF feature...so great to see such a young label garner that much attention already. and i saw in that as well including your mention of layers in london that that the hugely respectable louis in antwerp will also be picking up the label which i think works beautifully with their typical range.

 

[Psylocke]

Also on Antonioli, up for pre-order: http://www.antonioli.eu/en/women/products?designer=456

Not very unexpected, but everything is very pricey. $1.718,00 for the jeans, ouch. But the collection looks pretty good in their pictures!