Valentino Haute Couture F/W 2022.23 Rome

[Deleted member 7575]

In general you appeal to the mass by being very much exclusive because the idea is that everybody wants to be part of the world.

But the majority of the brands don’t play the hypocrisy game.

It’s also a matter of context. Today the marketing team at Gaultier is almost aggressive on the diversity, the body positivity, the lgbt+ conversation…But it feels more authentic because it has always been part of his narrative.

I just don’t believe in the authenticity of PPP, marketing or not. I would rather see focused beautiful collections from him.

I don't think Pierpaolo is trying to be fashion's fairy godmother.

And I don't think his casting brief, the one he gave to the casting director, is responsible for the bad collection.

 

[WAVES]

boring show with a boring cast. it’s not about the colour of their skin is how they all look so unappealing they could all be blue for all I care. no spark! no fierceness. no élan.

the only slightly interesting look is the silver dress with the ostrich feathers cape/ coat. everything else is to be burned.

I found myself liking a lot of some of the Men’s pieces. go figure.

those stairs should be crying blood.
pitiful.

 

[Koibito]

Talking about stairs, fall/winter 2006 was fiercer.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

This collection could be from anybody. It's all over the place. Too many colors, fabrics, and shapes with absolutely no cohesion. It really looks like he doesn't care anymore. I'm not feeling the love in the clothes. I hate to say it, but it's time for him to go. He had some beautiful moments in his chapter for Valentino, but now he needs to find a new challenge.

 

[LadyJunon]

In general you appeal to the mass by being very much exclusive because the idea is that everybody wants to be part of the world.

But the majority of the brands don’t play the hypocrisy game.

It’s also a matter of context. Today the marketing team at Gaultier is almost aggressive on the diversity, the body positivity, the lgbt+ conversation…But it feels more authentic because it has always been part of his narrative.

I just don’t believe in the authenticity of PPP, marketing or not. I would rather see focused beautiful collections from him.

The worst thing is that this inclusivity marketing has bit Valentino in the *** twice.

When he did his SS'19 couture show and the theme was "black women in Haute Couture", there was an accompanying advert for the launch a new perfume, where they claimed that they were the first Couture house to use a black woman (I believe it was Adut) to promote a perfume.

Then we had last season's mess with the very vocal inclusion of diverse bodies that apparently weren't diverse enough since the models were still relatively in shape.

Of course, Diet Prada called them out on both occasions and everyone else followed suit.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Kind of an Earth-shaking discovery, but it turns Valentino Haute Couture has been designed by Yvan Mispeleare at least since 2018.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Not that surprised since Pierpaolo looked like he hadn’t been to the atelier in quite a while in that video recently released by Vogue. I would urge Valentino to hire another ghost designer since this one is clearly lost and has been for a few seasons…there have got to be better options.

A quick anecdote: The other day I went through the entire collection with my mother and she didn’t know whether to laugh or cry at how haphazardly constructed everything was, how ugly the proportions were and how gimmicky the styling was. It’s easy to lose perspective when you follow fashion for a longtime but there are some collections whose ugliness is apparent to anyone with a functioning pair of eyes. Jacquemus was another brand which she considered beyond redemption since the clothes fail to flatter even the models.

 

[Lola701]

Kind of an Earth-shaking discovery, but it turns Valentino Haute Couture has been designed by Yvan Mispeleare at least since 2018.

Kind of disappointed tbh. Yvan is maybe talented but this is not the essence of Couture.
It’s so weird to have a design director for HC.

Given that I was already confused by Raf’s process for Couture, I wonder what PPP’s process looks like. I bet it’s the same as for many people in RTW.

 

[Salvatore]

That’s really sad. I’d like a new creative director.

Isn’t it about that time in the fashion world where the musical chairs shift is supposed to start ?