The mood was very Givenchy by Riccardo rather than Valentino....
It's an interesting collection, very Hits/Misses.
Italian Haute Couture or Alta Moda has this particularity to be very much more wearable or practical, simpler in allure despite the sophistication of the fabrics and techniques.
It's refreshing to see very well made clothes in great fabrics. I love the color palette and the movement of some of the fabrics.
The problem comes with the gimmicks.
First of all, the styling is a mess. Couture is about a look, a silhouette and the styling needs to be perfect. It should not be about a great sweater and a good pant here and there.
After the styling comes the boots (part of the styling anyway) and shoes overall. PP is trying too hard to be edgy and the shoes kills the allure and the impression of modernity. It's painful to see somebody struggling to walk while wearing pragmatic clothes.
Finally, I hate the obvious references to recent fashion. The references to Balenciaga or Bottega Veneta bothers me.
And I don't get the menswear...