While I'd hoped that Donatella would manage to at least meet, if not top, last season's incredible show and collection, I suspected that she wouldn't. And really, how could she? I'm glad that she's found a fresh confidence in directly referencing the archives, because there's such a rich supply of creative fodder there as well as plenty of pieces which deserve to be remade for a new audience, but I'm disappointed that she went for these particular references.
If anything, with how this season is panning out to be all about the powerful femininity of the '80s, it would have been a perfect moment for Donatella to reference Gianni's final collection that was built all around shoulder pads and an almost weaponized approach to feminine beauty, or even just generally delving into that sort of aggressive, imposing side of Gianni's archives to create something that felt like a continuation of last season instead of a footnote to it.