Via Bus Stop/Des Kohan New York, Los Angeles
A handful of intrepid fashion-forward stores have cropped up in New York, the latest addition being Via Bus Stoplocated at the old Onward (their parent company) space at the corner of Houston and Mercer Streets.
With 16 stores already in Japan and soon to open stores in Paris and Milan, Via Bus Stop is on a massive retail tear. Decked out in a cascade of slate-colored chiffon that pools on the floor, the space is tinged with peering natural light and the right musical volume, the New York store is a direct transport to an ethereal 19th-century boudoir — and the feeling appears to have extended to the clothing as well. The store houses a robust collection from Hussein Chalayan (the most extensively-bought line, with a salon on the second floor), as well as a heavy buy from Viktor and Rolf. The edit focuses on the flirty offerings from these labels: delicate cotton tops with asymmetrical detailing from Chalayan and ribbon-strewn, fitted tops and skirts from Viktor and Rolf. From Anne Valerie Hash, there's meticulously constructed ivory lace see-through dresses, paired with papery tops and frilly cashmere knits to seal the boudoir feeling.
The eye-catching prints from the Australian duo Easton Pearson are fast movers, while a different kind of globetrotting bohemian will revel in the wildly printed sweats from Bernard Wilhelm. Seta Ichiro's delicate tops and lightly decorated skirts serve up a dose of sober neutrality only to be glammed up by some seductive Latina-accented leather skirts from Antonio Berardi and the coquettish east-west mélange from Johanna Ho. There are an outlandish array of hats from Rodriguez and Lola for Isabella Blow to fawn over, and subtle ones from Grezi for the Hamptons habitue. There are pink mesh and bead necklaces from Trosman, stillettos courtesy of L'Autre Chose, Alexander Dell'Acqua and Ernesto Esposito, and flats from Claudio Merazzi and Passepartout.
The Japanese and Europeans have been witnesses to the success of this directional mix of labels — but will this bold proposition entice the more conservative New Yorker to whip out that credit card and willingly swipe? It's a waiting game.
The latest Marc Jacobs and Marni stores are getting all the buzz in Los Angeles; but don't overlook Des Kohan, Desiree Kohan's just-opened Miracle Mile boutique.
From the store's entryway, one is struck by the pieces from Hussein Chalayan, Martine Sitbon, and Sophia Kokosolaki adorning the steel beam tubes travelling dramatically across the room, which took its inspiration from the early purveyors of modernism. Go in deeper and discover Giulia Persanti knits and drapey tops from Jasmin Shokrian hanging coolly on mannequins while a rack-filled selection from Pegah Anvarian, Kate O'Conner, Ella Moss, and Laurence Goldberg further fill out the super girly, Euro identity of the boutique. Kohan, a designer in her own right, is pushing an impressive group of her own little summer dresses, airy shorts and easy tops showing off light seaming details and strong fits. And as icing on the low-carb cake, the boutique offers A-list services from celebrated celebrity stylists Negar Ali, Lysa Cooper, and Ilaria Urbinati, who are available on call for personal styling sessions.
From the idyllic air of Bali to the silk trade in Shanghai and the venerable fashion houses of Milan (Kohan forecasted trends for Gucci, Miu Miu, and Prada), the boutique is a seamless marriage of Desiree Kohan's global fashion expeditions. With a dash of Zen, one's eyes are rapidly treated to modern interpretations of organic elements, all tightly packaged within an art gallery. But do apply caution; your wallet might feel a bit of pain from the consequence of this retail serenity. -Robert Cordero
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