When you come to a show for Mei Lui's London-based label Victim Fashion Street, you need to leave your existing fashion preconceptions at the door. This lady does not do traditional seasons, nor does she adhere to the usual production practices. Instead, Mei Lui's collections are like explorations of personal inspirations through fabric.
This collection was almost entirely black and made up exclusively of dresses all of which are handmade. The best way I can describe her method is to liken it to a curious child let loose with a dressing-up box and a sewing kit.
Mei Lui builds each dress from a tapestry of fabrics she sources from her travels. This season, the inspiration was horror flicks: Rosemary's Baby and Carrie. Her models had beautiful but slightly spooky antique doll make-up and stood on spotlights on the catwalk. Fob watches on chains echoed the feeling of the vintage lace that features throughout. The dresses are like Victorian baby doll frocks mixing lingerie with occasional Spanish and western references.
There is not a coat, jacket or even a cardigan in sight. Just individual handmade, one-off outfits. And that in-your-face cheek is something to celebrate - no wonder Mei Lui has chosen London as her base because we are open-minded enough to appreciate designers who do not conform to the norm but unrelentingly stay true to their own fashion vocations.
Words: Marian Buckley
*fuk.co.uk