Vogue has documented Australia’s most successful models for almost six decades and this month’s cover is extra-special because of the extraordinary women it features together. Australian beauties, both male and female, feature heavily on the international runways, but never before have we seen so many home-grown models at the top of their game from such diverse backgrounds. It felt timely to celebrate that fact, because it truly reflects who we are. Despite being a multicultural country, we have long subscribed to a homogenous standard of beauty. Charlee Fraser, Akiima, Fernanda Ly and Andreja Pejić prove that thinking–and casting–is archaic.
Even more impressive than getting these four women in the same room are the powerful, personal stories they wrote for Vogue about their modelling careers and upbringings.
Akiima, last year’s modelling sensation from Adelaide, was born in a small village while her family was travelling to a Kenyan refugee camp while fleeing war-ravaged South Sudan. She writes: “Unfortunately we don’t get to see the diversity of Australian beauty. We have come a long way, but we still need to discuss diversity in the modelling industry … because we don’t want to keep asking for a spotlight.”
“Must there always be a bracketed ‘Australian-born Chinese’?” asks Ly, perhaps best known in the modelling world as a face of Louis Vuitton. “Why not stop with merely ‘Australian’? … racial dysphoria is a concept I am constantly struggling with … Cultural heritage does not simply disappear … I feel like an eternal floater. I was raised in what I would consider to be a disjointed mess of Australian, Chinese and Vietnamese upbringing.”
Pejić says that the fact that her body is presented as an unrealistic ideal of ‘beauty’ to the world doesn’t stop her, or most other models, from feeling unsure about themselves. “Adding to this is the fact that I am also a trans person, a war refugee, and that my long-lost father doesn’t drive a Rolls-Royce and my mother is not a former Hollywood actress with status and fame. In light of this, I have plenty of reasons to wonder: ‘How the **** did I get here?’”
But of her Vogue cover, shared with three other Australian beauties, she writes: “The idea is simple, but clear and important: we’re all different, but still the same.”
Fraser believes: “We’re slowly turning a page in the book of time and beginning to perceive beauty in all forms of race and colour. People often ask me what it’s like to be a role model for young Indigenous women and I often don’t know how to respond. I guess it’s because I’ve never sat down and thought of myself in those terms.”
Of course, we can’t discuss the photography of this cover without acknowledging that it was shot by Patrick Demarchelier, about whom allegations emerged just weeks after this shoot. The allegations were difficult to hear and I questioned whether to publish this cover. I asked the models what they thought and they unanimously wanted us to go ahead and reassured us that at no time during the shoot, or others for Vogue, have they felt uncomfortable or suffered anything untoward. I feel that the purpose of this cover – to celebrate the success of four incredible models who represent a modern, diverse and strong Australia in the international fashion industry – is important. It would be wrong for our positive message and purpose of this cover, which is all about empowerment (as evidenced by the accompanying essays the women wrote for us) was undermined by the allegations. And so I hope you will enjoy and appreciate this cover and the inside story in the manner in which it was conceived and delivered, knowing that the participants fully support and approved its publication.