Gladly admitting that Maggie's is creatively ambitious. And I’m also glad to have been (somewhat) wrong about her leading VC. However, all her creative input are on the half-baked side: Good concepts— just not successfully executed. She clearly wears her references on her sleeve; from The Face and Italian Vogue, to this very much inspired by Avedon’s 1960s American Vogue. But it’s all student-level in execution unfortunately, down to the terrible lighting in some shots— like the cover select.
Demna’s Balenciaga HC is so fitting for a story that faintly suggests the last days of the Qing Dynasty. The minimalist volume and simplistic, modest lines really stand out against the cluttered richness of the setting. The results are just not that strong. And there’s something so annoying about the lighting that just turns the dark silhouettes into clumps of shapes, rather than accentuate the sparse fashions against such a richly detailed setting. Shame.