Vogue Paris September 2019 by Mikael Jansson, Alasdair McLellan, Juergen Teller & Inez & Vinoodh

[KoV]

I’m utterly shocked at the blatant lack of Diversity within VP’s covers. Two models of colour (Naomi & Adut) in a year of covers, that’s not enough at all. It’s actually disgraceful that such a prestigious title can get away with this when there are so many incredible models (Imaan, Joan, Saffron, Anok and the list goes on) that could easily do any of the covers from the past year, but instead we get the same cover star 3 times? It’s absurd!

I don’t think I’ll be investing anymore money into this magazine from now on because it’s 2019 and we’ve had 2 models of colour, I can simply not support those statistics.

Certainly it's essential for the industry to create more opportunities for models of color. That being said, France's population is overwhelmingly Caucasian (something like 85%, I believe), so their low number of covers featuring a model of color is sort of reflective of their readership. I've always thought it was strange that Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Latin American, etc. editions of magazines feature so many Caucasian models given that the populations of those countries are only a very, very tiny percentage Caucasian. Instead of expecting some sort of one-size-fits-all solution to diversity across the board, I think it makes sense for the race and ethnicity of models in magazines to vary depending on where the edition is based. For example I think American Vogue should be pushed to feature more people of color since they make up over 30% of the population here in the US. Whereas in Britain, where the population is 87% white, I don't see the need for the same push. And then in Japan, as I mentioned before, where the population is extremely homogeneous (98% Japanese), it's crazy to me that of the 19 cover models so far this year, only 4 were Japanese and many more were white European or American models.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Well, I have to say I'm kinda dissapointed. I thought that Alt would run a fastastic cover by Jansson - I kinda like it to be honest- but the final result with the other covers is just...lazy.
Thankfully for her, the other Vogue editions are a complete mess and her VP is the only one talking about real fashion and strong content. As I said before, all the other editors make it so easy for E.A. to kick their ***es off even when she's not putting effort into it.

The only interesting thing about the covers are Jean Colonna and Azzedine Alaia.

 

[Perickles]

These covers would have been better with different models. She is a terrible one. She doesn't have the ability or talent to express anything. She is not interesting, very average indeed. Besides, she is overexposed. Enough of her.

 

[russianelf]

I don’t think I’ll be investing anymore money into this magazine from now on because it’s 2019 and we’ve had 2 models of colour, I can simply not support those statistics.

Calm down, the year isn't over yet, there's like three more issues to go. Also why don't you cancel Vogue Italia while you're at it, they also had only two black cover stars this year. Oh, and Vogue US as well, they only had Zendaya.

So no need to crucify Alt on the diversity cross, thank you.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

In France we don't have statistics of diversity as it is strictly and legally forbidden.

So I am curious to see where this pourcentage comes from. Insee is the only one source about our demographic data. Anyway, VP is about Paris and not about France so it should be definitely more diverse about these covers but ALT has been quite inclusive compared to her predecessors.

Truth to be told, It is not because adut would have been in the covers instead of Rianne that the covers would have been better. The styling and the layout are a whole mess by themselves.

 

[sixtdaily]

Certainly it's essential for the industry to create more opportunities for models of color. That being said, France's population is overwhelmingly Caucasian (something like 85%, I believe), so their low number of covers featuring a model of color is sort of reflective of their readership. I've always thought it was strange that Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Latin American, etc. editions of magazines feature so many Caucasian models given that the populations of those countries are only a very, very tiny percentage Caucasian. Instead of expecting some sort of one-size-fits-all solution to diversity across the board, I think it makes sense for the race and ethnicity of models in magazines to vary depending on where the edition is based. For example I think American Vogue should be pushed to feature more people of color since they make up over 30% of the population here in the US. Whereas in Britain, where the population is 87% white, I don't see the need for the same push. And then in Japan, as I mentioned before, where the population is extremely homogeneous (98% Japanese), it's crazy to me that of the 19 cover models so far this year, only 4 were Japanese and many more were white European or American models.

Was gonna say the same. I'm not sure where you get the 85% of Caucasian in France as such statistics on ethnicity are not legal...

Also, why hate on Alt when it's the same for most Vogue editions and magazines?
People blame Vogue Japan for not having enough JP or Asian cover girls
People blame Vogue Taiwan for always having Taiwanese cover models
You could blame Vogue India for almost never having South Indian girls on the covers, and just white washed Mumbai it girls
Or Anna for the poor Latino and Asian representation on her covers
And so on...

The issue is much more complex but it's important to keep in mind that the discussion on "race" in France is NOT what it is in the US for example... Representation in the media is not something that's talked about much. Also, when you pass by a newstand in France, you'll see there is a diverse representation of women. People who wants diversity might just turn to other magazines. Vogue Paris is still very much a Parisian and elitist title, to some extent.

 

[mikel]

Also, why hate on Alt when it's the same for most Vogue editions and magazines?
People blame Vogue Japan for not having enough JP or Asian cover girls
People blame Vogue Taiwan for always having Taiwanese cover models
You could blame Vogue India for almost never having South Indian girls on the covers, and just white washed Mumbai it girls
Or Anna for the poor Latino and Asian representation on her covers
And so on...

You make some valid points. I’m not questioning that. But perhaps the poster was only hating on Alt because this is a Vogue Paris thread and they wanted to stay on topic. Could be as simple as that.

 

[Lola701]

I’m utterly shocked at the blatant lack of Diversity within VP’s covers. Two models of colour (Naomi & Adut) in a year of covers, that’s not enough at all. It’s actually disgraceful that such a prestigious title can get away with this when there are so many incredible models (Imaan, Joan, Saffron, Anok and the list goes on) that could easily do any of the covers from the past year, but instead we get the same cover star 3 times? It’s absurd!

I don’t think I’ll be investing anymore money into this magazine from now on because it’s 2019 and we’ve had 2 models of colour, I can simply not support those statistics.

I think the conversation about diversity or representation will come post Alt or from abroad because (I hate to say it) but in France, people don’t care....
The perception of VP internationally is very different from the perception whiting the country.
France, despite being very inviting and less « dangerous » for some minorities, has a long way to go regarding the representation of minorities everywhere. There are POC in the French fashion community but as it is a very exclusive world, it’s kinda difficult to get into.

Add to that the fact that the « Parisienne » aesthetic or fantasy wasn’t build around the idea of an Asian, North African or black woman and it makes it even harder. The concept of La Parisienne has more of a social weight than people think.

It’s weird because beyond all of that, the French fashion community is not racist. It has more to do with class.
And I also think that people have to engage more with fashion, beyond social media.

In a way, VP is representing perfectly it world and the Parisian fashion scene. VP is maybe the last Vogue that is a « Society magazine ».

 

[russianelf]

Anyway, if we discuss diversity in a magazine, the question would not be strictly about covers for black models but about the number of poc models in the magazine as a whole. For Vogue Paris I don't know any statistics, but maybe somebody here is more knowledgable on that topic.

 

[Lola701]

In France we don't have statistics of diversity as it is strictly and legally forbidden.

So I am curious to see where this pourcentage comes from. Insee is the only one source about our demographic data. Anyway, VP is about Paris and not about France so it should be definitely more diverse about these covers but ALT has been quite inclusive compared to her predecessors.

Truth to be told, It is not because adut would have been in the covers instead of Rianne that the covers would have been better. The styling and the layout are a whole mess by themselves.

But more than that, I think that for VP to be more diverse, it has to be more open minded in terms of ideas.
That’s why I always say that VP has to move from the « Triangle d’or ». Because, even if it’s not about France but Paris, The social patterns represented are exactly the same in all the major French cities.
In all those cities, the archétype of the VP girl lives the same life (maybe less glamorous), wears the same type of clothes and brands and is interested by the same kind of things.

Paris is a very diverse city but it’s not obvious if your point of reference is either Avenue Montaigne, Avenue George 5 or Rue du Faubourg St Honoré.

It’s always funny to see Stories in Brooklyn instead of Belleville for example...

 

[kasper!]

Eiffel tower for Paris cover? WOW groundbreaking! Alt is a super talented stylist I have to admit!

 

[Urban Stylin]

Certainly it's essential for the industry to create more opportunities for models of color. That being said, France's population is overwhelmingly Caucasian (something like 85%, I believe), so their low number of covers featuring a model of color is sort of reflective of their readership. I've always thought it was strange that Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Latin American, etc. editions of magazines feature so many Caucasian models given that the populations of those countries are only a very, very tiny percentage Caucasian. Instead of expecting some sort of one-size-fits-all solution to diversity across the board, I think it makes sense for the race and ethnicity of models in magazines to vary depending on where the edition is based. For example I think American Vogue should be pushed to feature more people of color since they make up over 30% of the population here in the US. Whereas in Britain, where the population is 87% white, I don't see the need for the same push. And then in Japan, as I mentioned before, where the population is extremely homogeneous (98% Japanese), it's crazy to me that of the 19 cover models so far this year, only 4 were Japanese and many more were white European or American models.

International Magazines and fashion as a whole are meant to have a global appeal. Isn't it more about aesthetics than the race of the readers where that particular magazine is based?

 

[Urban Stylin]

I think the conversation about diversity or representation will come post Alt or from abroad because (I hate to say it) but in France, people don’t care....
The perception of VP internationally is very different from the perception whiting the country.
France, despite being very inviting and less « dangerous » for some minorities, has a long way to go regarding the representation of minorities everywhere. There are POC in the French fashion community but as it is a very exclusive world, it’s kinda difficult to get into.

Add to that the fact that the « Parisienne » aesthetic or fantasy wasn’t build around the idea of an Asian, North African or black woman and it makes it even harder. The concept of La Parisienne has more of a social weight than people think.

It’s weird because beyond all of that, the French fashion community is not racist. It has more to do with class.
And I also think that people have to engage more with fashion, beyond social media.

In a way, VP is representing perfectly it world and the Parisian fashion scene. VP is maybe the last Vogue that is a « Society magazine ».

I always thought North Africa had a big part to play in the Parisian aesthetic. From top brands like YSL, Lanvin under Alber to some of the muses that previously inspired top French designers. It wasn't as cookie cutter as today's VP.

 

[Lola701]

I always thought North Africa had a big part to play in the Parisian aesthetic. From top brands like YSL, Lanvin under Alber to some of the muses that previously inspired top French designers. It wasn't as cookie cutter as today's VP.

Yes it has always been influential in the post 68 Parisian aesthetic.
YSL was born il Algeria and made the idea of French bourgeoisie going on vacation to Marrakesh a thing. Alber came from Israel but it’s around the same influences. Alaia also became the epitome of Parisian chic, despite being a Tunisian and bringing a more agressive and sensual type of sexuality to fashion.
I also think about Farida Khelfa who is the ultimate muse!

But despite all of that, there wasn’t a representation in the covers of VP. If you look at the covers of VP from the 70’s to 1989, you would hardly believe that women of colors were the stars of Paris at that time. And they were!
Those girls were in the magazine but never on the covers.

 

[slayage]

International Magazines and fashion as a whole are meant to have a global appeal. Isn't it more about aesthetics than the race of the readers where that particular magazine is based?

AMEN.

The covers are basic VP, I like all of them except the New York one. That’s just ultimately boring and not interesting at all. The Paris cover gives me vintage Vogue vibes, I love it.

But, Rianne again... utterly ridiculous to give her three covers this year. I can almost guess already she’s gonna get the November cover as well, wouldn’t surprise me at all.

But in conclusion, as previously said, I want to see more diversity because there are international readers to this magazine.

 

[AD011620]

Okay, yesterday I couldn’t be bothered but today I am because the Paris cover is just painful to look at. In fact, all of them are. The girl has a charisma of an oyster. She looks sedated even as a punk. The Milan cover is anything but Milan... more like a funeral procession in Sicily. I mean truly WTF?!

 

[YohjiAddict]

I love Rianne give her the three remaining covers for 2019 for all I care...I really like London and Milan and I feel like that ugly on purpose type kinda works with how cheesy the Milan one is.

The Paris is the worst for me, Hans Fuhrer has done this a 100 times before and much better. Suzanne Koller did a parisienne edit by Harley Weir last year and it was AMAZING, they did all black and an eiffel tower shot with Adut that was a dream and not at all trite. Rianne was also in that edit and she looked like a goddess of chic. She looks like crap in her Paris cover...

 

[ellastica]

What am I reading on this board? International editions of VOGUE not promoting diversity is NOT OK. White washed magazine covers, regardless of the country of origin and race make-up of readership, are damaging and detrimental in creating a race positive, race inclusive world. 'Aesthetics' in no way should be exclusionary or contrary to diversity or minority representation. THAT very idea is what these international editions of VOGUE, HB, MC, ELLE, InStyle etc all need to be actively combating. Aspirational living needs to represent a truly inclusive global community and what it can look like. In the meantime, white affirmation, media exclusion of minorities continues to maintain the status quo. In our heavily image based global society, magazines can either maintain white washed walls or break down barriers...

 

[Plax]

Calm down, the year isn't over yet, there's like three more issues to go. Also why don't you cancel Vogue Italia while you're at it, they also had only two black cover stars this year. Oh, and Vogue US as well, they only had Zendaya.

So no need to crucify Alt on the diversity cross, thank you.

Don't need to criticize Alt on the issue of diversity?

It took four years for Alt to use Asian models in Vogue Paris, and Alt and her team have never worked with Asian models who debuted after 14 SS like Jing Wen, Sora Choi, He Cong, Wangy, Hyunji Shin, Yoonyoung Bae, Chu Wong etc.

Also, Marie Helvin already appeared 5 covers of British Vogue and 4 covers of Italian Vogue in 1970s (Vivienne Lynn also got a cover of Italian Vogue at that time). I don't think it's because in that time UK or Italian was more diverse than now. It's because David Bailey supported Marie Helvin who was in relationship with him in that time, and editors were more open to minorities.

Please just don't make excuse like saying "Parisians don't care". It's just Alt and her team who don't care.

 

[Lola701]

What am I reading on this board? International editions of VOGUE not promoting diversity is NOT OK. White washed magazine covers, regardless of the country of origin and race make-up of readership, are damaging and detrimental in creating a race positive, race inclusive world. 'Aesthetics' in no way should be exclusionary or contrary to diversity or minority representation. THAT very idea is what these international editions of VOGUE, HB, MC, ELLE, InStyle etc all need to be actively combating. Aspirational living needs to represent a truly inclusive global community and what it can look like. In the meantime, white affirmation, media exclusion of minorities continues to maintain the status quo. In our heavily image based global society, magazines can either maintain white washed walls or break down barriers...

She did an interview recently and she sees her magazine as an international publication. Unfortunately, she doesn’t treat it like that. I think it will come with time and with a new EIC.
I’m amazed for example to see how diverse Carine’s work has been since she left Vogue. I hope the future EIC will have a fresher perspective...

VP is the only Vogue representing a city instead of a country. So it’s bubble. They will need somebody who first see Paris as this international city and as part of world in the large way. And it’s also interesting to see that it’s the real last Vogue that is about fashion.

I’m optimistic. In France we are so late but eventually it will come. I already appreciate the efforts that have been made even of it’s not enough.

Imaan is almost on every issue of the magazine. I would love to see her get the same campaigns that all the models of the VP universe get...