Vogue Portugal February 2018 : Maggie Maurer by Evelyn Bencicova

[Lausanne]

Sofia Lucas is the director of Vogue. Jan is the fashion director and whom I think has the most input regarding editorials. Claudia Barros is the fashion editor and also styles a few editorials but most of the "core" work seems to be done by Jan.

I could swear Branislav name was once on the technical page. But he shoots a large amount of editorials/covers for the magazine.

-> And yet another cover, that could be an outtake of most of their previous cover editorials, with zero Portuguese talent. Not even shot in Portugal, I'm afraid. Vogue PT completely lost any remaining identity. The best thing about any Vogue is how they speak to its national audience. I don't see the Portuguese women represented here in any way.

The magazine now looks and feels like an eastern European magazine. Empty, cold, eerie, opulent,... More Prague than Lisbon. It needs that very Portuguese warmth, simplicity and quirkiness.

I hope they leave this egocentric/masturbatory production soon and open the magazine up. We have many Portuguese models working internationally nowadays, plenty of fashion photographers, beautiful locations. And I can't believe they are still wrapping the magazine and selling it for 5€. Absolutely unbelievable for the Portuguese economic reality.

Thanks for more info I absolutely agree with what you said actually. That's why I said in my first comment that they are turning it into a czecho-slovak affair by using czech and slovak models, photographers, make-up artists, hair stylists and even slovak casting director. I'm more than happy to see talented people from my country getting some work in Vogue but it makes me very sad that there's no portuguese spirit anymore. It feels like they are trying to appeal more to the international audience than portuguese. I hope they will balance it more in the future and feature more talent from Portugal.

You and Benn are right, there is a strong eastern european (even though we are a part of central Europe) mood to the magazine now. Which is a bit surprising because I don't find Branislav's previous work for slovak magazines nor for Czech Elle having that cold/sterile/eastern european aesthetic.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

It's the eternal discussion, isn't it? How "X" cover of Vogue Paris doesn't feel Parisian or the occasional white washing of Vogue Arabia. I believe the reason there were numerous Vogues addressed to specific countries should have been a way of approaching the country's culture. It's less and less like that. Few are the ones doing that successfully.

The magazine is still written in Portuguese and the lifestyle articles (food, travel and such) are based on Portugal. It's the fashion and beauty content that is mostly lacking and some articles that feel unashamedly translated.

Vogue Spain maintains a certain sunny sultriness that is very Spanish. VP maintains, most of the time, that Parisian feeling. If you visit Porto or Lisbon, you see a completely different aesthetic. It's dark, romantic, loud,... monumental. It's not about bathrooms with broken tiles (second time we see that on the cover on the past 3 months) and abandoned kitchens.

 

[amby]

One eagle-eyed Instagram follower spotted the bend white tiles behind Maggie's left and right sides on the first cover

 

[TheVeed]

I believe the reason there were numerous Vogues addressed to specific countries should have been a way of approaching the country's culture. It's less and less like that. Few are the ones doing that successfully.


Vogue Spain maintains a certain sunny sultriness that is very Spanish. VP maintains, most of the time, that Parisian feeling. If you visit Porto or Lisbon, you see a completely different aesthetic.

You're actually right. As much as I love the recent covers, they don't feel Portugal. Vogue Paris, Vogue Germany, Netherlands, China, Spain, UK, Ukraine, Brazil, they all retain spirit of their respective country.

Vogue Japan: doesn't feel Japanese at all, feels Italian
Vogue Mexico: feels German, feels very white.
Vogue Thailand: Nope.
Vogue Italia: at times feels East European but feels more international than anything.

 

[Benn98]

It's not about bathrooms with broken tiles (second time we see that on the cover on the past 3 months) and abandoned kitchens.

....which looks like the aftermath of the Chernobyl accident.

 

[mistress_f]

the covers are outstanding.

 

[mode78]

They are doing an incredible job, on what I am guessing is a pretty limited budget. The locations featured on the cover may not be in Portugal but they very easily could be. There is plenty of decaying architecture in Portugal that looks just like that. The creativity and vision is there and more importantly than that they have the guts to go 'there' when many others wouldn't.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

They are doing an incredible job, on what I am guessing is a pretty limited budget. The locations featured on the cover may not be in Portugal but they very easily could be. There is plenty of decaying architecture in Portugal that looks just like that. The creativity and vision is there and more importantly than that they have the guts to go 'there' when many others wouldn't.

As someone that is Portuguese, has lived in Portugal for the past 30 years, traveled from top to bottom and lived in at least 4 different cities... No, it does not represent Portugal in any way. The "decaying architecture" you are referring to is considered to be a shame for the country and doesn't resemble this moldy sterile white tiled apocalypse in any way. Also, thinking decaying buildings is the way to represent Portugal (or any country) is even worse than any other possible excuse.

I could go on and on regarding how this cover (and even magazine) does not represent Portugal: from model choice to design, the English title, the austerity, the location,... everything.

And I know most people think the same. I've never seen so many Vogues standing in the shelves a week before the new issue is released. It's heartbreaking as there is major potential for a new Vogue to rise in the country.

And what creativity? Look at the 5 past covers: except for the November issue (with a Portuguese model, magenta tint, simple portrait, with an actual concept behind it - Portuguese newcomers) all the other issues look like non events. This cover could be easily from the same editorial of the October issue (moldy white tiles), the December and January issues are yet again nothing but weird composition on plain background. Greys, pale blues and yellows,... Everything feels cold and Portugal is all about colours and warmth, more so now that we are recovering from the financial crisis and Lisbon became a tourism hub.

And if you check the (remaining) bad comments on their instagram you will see how many Portuguese woman are claiming the January issue to be the last they bought until they revamp the magazine.

And don't even make me start on the budget. If you think making the main editorial in Slovakia/any eastern European country is cheaper than making it in Portugal with a Portuguese team you are completely wrong. Actually, I know they have a Portuguese editorial in this issue (with kids...) shot by one of the best Portuguese fashion photographers. And I know plenty of fashion photographers working with a 0€ budget.

There are various institutional organizations working exclusively to promote Portuguese fashion abroad. They help young designers and artists both with counseling and financially. They even helped to create a new "all Portuguese" fashion magazine called Prinçipal (the full name goes something like Prinçipal Moda Portugal - International Magazine). So no, budget is not the reason. It's just lack of identity.

(my print from the vogue.pt website)

 

[mode78]

I'm Portuguese too and have lived up and down the country and that 50s/60s/70s decaying architecture exists whether Portuguese people are proud of it or not. It's a part reality, a hangover from post-colonialism. Portugal isn't just blue and white tiles and fado. Portugal is a warm country and that will most likely be reflected in the spring/summer editions of the magazine. We will have to wait and see.

The negative comments on their instagram are far out weighed by the positive ones. One of them states that the new Vogue Portugal is 'too commercial' and they are 'trying to appeal to the masses too much' which is just mind boggling.

Another says she will never buy Portuguese Vogue again because there was some drama on the Spanish Vogue forum about a blogger being harassed, even though international editions of Vogue are published by different houses and have very little to do with each other.

Another has some valid criticism based on her personal taste which everyone is entitled too. She say's she will continue to buy Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia and British Vogue, which seems to indicate that she prefers safer content which is fair enough.

The new Portuguese vogue has a vision, not every one will like it but they have one. They are only 5 issues in and they will evolve over time, like all creative enterprises. I for one am interested in seeing them grow. In fact it's one of the few Vogues that I look forward to seeing where they go next.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

I won't further the conversation of what is or what isn't the real look of Portuguese decaying architecture. It is quite silly and I stand by my comments.

I will also refrain from intellectualizing each negative/positive comment on their instagram: as with everything, every opinion is valid if sincere.

And I repeat, I stand by everything I've said before. I bought the October issue, I shared that cover everywhere claiming I was finally buying Vogue PT again and I had major hopes for this new direction. I'm actually sad it didn't evolve as I and many predicted. (And yes, I'm sad about the amount of covers Branislav is getting and why that is happening)

But I'm happy that they are keeping an eye on what's being said here and on social media. I still have faith and I will keep waiting for a Vogue that represents me as a Portuguese woman (until then I'll keep buying indie).

 

[simon]

What I get from what they've been doing so far is that there's a promising team behind Vogue Portugal. I'm interested to see where they would take this.

 

[caioherrero]

Can anyone post the others contents? is it good?

 

[FStop]

Sofia Lucas is the director of Vogue. Jan is the fashion director and whom I think has the most input regarding editorials. Claudia Barros is the fashion editor and also styles a few editorials but most of the "core" work seems to be done by Jan.

I could swear Branislav name was once on the technical page. But he shoots a large amount of editorials/covers for the magazine.

-> And yet another cover, that could be an outtake of most of their previous cover editorials, with zero Portuguese talent. Not even shot in Portugal, I'm afraid. Vogue PT completely lost any remaining identity. The best thing about any Vogue is how they speak to its national audience. I don't see the Portuguese women represented here in any way.

The magazine now looks and feels like an eastern European magazine. Empty, cold, eerie, opulent,... More Prague than Lisbon. It needs that very Portuguese warmth, simplicity and quirkiness.

I hope they leave this egocentric/masturbatory production soon and open the magazine up. We have many Portuguese models working internationally nowadays, plenty of fashion photographers, beautiful locations. And I can't believe they are still wrapping the magazine and selling it for 5€. Absolutely unbelievable for the Portuguese economic reality.

While I really love a new Vogue that doesn't look like the rest , I feel being controlled by 1 photographer , the Fashion director as I don't see many others shooting for it. Also, they are not really using any really established models inside. Hana Soukova had a cover along side Kurkova and Borges . The April covers really took me aback. I appreciate diversity and interracial but a nude like that one was a bit raw and far from any Vogue Ive ever seen.

Also , I don't see any major Brands on their covers or inside stories.

Clearly a tad odd.