Willy Chavarria F/W 2025.26 Paris

[jeremydante]

 

[jeremydante]

Really interested to see thoughts on this collection.

 

[youthinasia]

Having Jerry Lorenzo on the runway after his comments on gay marriage is wild

 

[reese06]

I found this collection underwhelming, and the social media seemed overly positive, likely influenced by Willy’s identity as a brown man.
I know many want this to be a cultural moment, but we need to be fair when critiquing the work.

The casting of men was undeniably stunning, but the clothing left much to be desired.

The influence of Balenciaga Fall 2020 was glaringly obvious and HEAVY, with many looks feeling like minor tweaks—switching hockey references for basketball, for example. Honestly, it’s disappointing, and I can’t help but feel secondhand embarrassment for the him. He didn’t need to show this in Paris

 

[br3ncon1]

Having Jerry Lorenzo on the runway after his comments on gay marriage is wild

That was almost 10 years ago though. Maybe he's changed his views lol

 

[KoV]

Hideous, deeply unstylish, not an original thought in sight, fabrics look like they were sourced from Shein deadstock

 

[yslforever]

Really interested to see thoughts on this collection.

A waste of time, money and carbon.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The proportions of his designs are really unappealing and clownesque in the worst way possible, all that is driving his momentum is as Reese mentioned, driven by the diversity narrative of his brand.

GmbH, Wales Bonner or Miguel Adrover have each got some similarities in approach (and sometimes of look), but with greater talent…

 

[IndigoHomme]

A 'chicano style' inspired collection with a colombian singer and another puerto rican singer modeling... Mmmmhhhh... Looks like someone ran away from Trump to Paris before receiving an oficial visit

 

[bc collector]

I feel his talent (so to speak) is has attracted attention mostly for embracing the current woke zeitgeist more than for specific design merits. It's just about representation rather than novelty. He certainly has a distinctive voice but I'm not sure those clothes IRL would really work on an average customer. Because this is the conundrum behind his "political" (for lack of a better word) stance: he has moulded his identity around the chicano style but, really, are latinos really buying into those clothes? Maybe a minority, but I'm afraid most of his customers, be they many or few, are middle-class fashion literate, probably white, customer.

 

[br3ncon1]

You'd be surprised at how many people dress up like this now, just go to any gritty nightclub in LA or NYC. None of y'all are his target demographic, and that's okay. The way some of y'all just dismiss his work as if he's some diversity hire is just so insipid.

 

[IndigoHomme]

VOGUE.COM

 

[IndigoHomme]

vogue.com

 

[tricotineacetat]

You'd be surprised at how many people dress up like this now, just go to any gritty nightclub in LA or NYC. None of y'all are his target demographic, and that's okay. The way some of y'all just dismiss his work as if he's some diversity hire is just so insipid.

I could argue the same way regarding Random Identities or GmbH in my native Berlin - While the look is certainly around (and has been before those brands existed) you would see those label's clothing on influencers and in places line Soho House, rather than a night club.

That to me makes it clear that the high fashion interpretation of subcultural dress codes is something the people inside those scenes don‘t really wear.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

mid collection aside i just wanna know who the last three models are bc 🫦🫦🫦

 

[Thefrenchy]

Would've needed some extra editing and no womenswear. Casting is strong and helps A LOT.

 

[Phuel]

You'd be surprised at how many people dress up like this now, just go to any gritty nightclub in LA or NYC. None of y'all are his target demographic, and that's okay. The way some of y'all just dismiss his work as if he's some diversity hire is just so insipid.

And that’s all good. But how is this high fashion that’s deserving of a place at PFW…???

Because take away the identity politics and very Hispanic-American representation, and there’s nothing to see here.

No one that’s dedicated to the a masterclass construction/craftsmanship/invention of fashion design cares to give this a second look: The logo plastered on gangster-cosplay basics is enough of a turnoff. And even if social virtue-signal follows/likes/namedrops him, none of these people are spending money on him. He’ll get collab money from the corporate identity-politics grifters Nike/Adidas/Puma and probably Jaguar to finance more of his juvenile clownwear. But I understand— we all have to make a living.

(BTW, the level of mediocrity that’s plagued PFW is worse than the cheapest of NYFW 10-20 years ago. So tragic and "insipid" indeed.)

 

[Nimsay]

this collection made me laugh. "sad mami" lmao. omg so funny because he's 100% serious.

the clothes are hardly stitched together.

 

[proseccotabis]

right. just watched it. a waste of time and resources. the only sliiiiiightly interesting thing about it? the casting. otherwise yawn.

 

[br3ncon1]

And that’s all good. But how is this high fashion that’s deserving of a place at PFW…???

Because take away the identity politics and very Hispanic-American representation, and there’s nothing to see here.

No one that’s dedicated to the a masterclass construction/craftsmanship/invention of fashion design cares to give this a second look: The logo plastered on gangster-cosplay basics is enough of a turnoff. And even if social virtue-signal follows/likes/namedrops him, none of these people are spending money on him. He’ll get collab money from the corporate identity-politics grifters Nike/Adidas/Puma and probably Jaguar to finance more of his juvenile clownwear. But I understand— we all have to make a living.

(BTW, the level of mediocrity that’s plagued PFW is worse than the cheapest of NYFW 10-20 years ago. So tragic and "insipid" indeed.)

Don't pretend like high fashion hasn't been stealing ideas from street fashion/club culture for years. This elitist take is tired.