The Best
Ports 1961 would have to be my number one of the season. Brilliant campaign realised by brilliant photography. It was simply spectacular, I only wish it was a bit longer.
Bottega Veneta is a very close second. The only reason Ports beat them in my case is Meisel. I wasn't immediately fond of the campaign, but it grew on me with every new picture! A fantastic portfolio with the perfect elements of summer luxury. I must give a shot-out to Mica, she outdid herself in this one. Her best work to date!
Loewe simply because of Jodie Comer. The woman's a revelation! I've been enamoured with her ever since I saw her on Killing Eve. She's a brilliant actress (point proven by Loewe's fantastic advertising video) with exceptional beauty and I can only hope the fashion industry will embrace her the same way they embraced some other, less suitable (Emma Stone, Jennifer Lawrence respectively) actresses.
Honorable mentions
Dolce & Gabbana as much as I disapprove of the brand and will never respect it again, I must admit I'm rather fond of their black-and-white campaign this season with Jessica Stam and Isabeli Fontana. From casting to photography, it all reminded me of Gabbana's glory days in the 90s/early 2000s back when Meisel created wonders for them. It's truly a shame they destroyed themselves with their embarrassing and vile behavior.
Saint Laurent had some of the most memorable shots of the season. The clothes combined with nature created a fantastic composition throughout. I also give kudos to SL for making me appreciate Juergen's photography, something I haven't done since his days at Céline.
Moschino for the video aspect alone. All videos they released on Instagram were absolutely terrific, mostly thanks to Gigi's wild energy and Tyra's cameo. It's a shame the overall experience was quite underwhelming due to poor choice of photographs. I did however see some edits shared by Jeremy Scott with unpublished shots of Bella and Imaan used as vinyl covers (something like the cover story for Vogue Italia January 2006). It would've made for a far better campaign in print!
Prada is an unlikely choice due to vomit-inducing art direction, but if you learn to ignore it there are some quite beautiful photographs. It's definitely a nice change from Willy's usual dreadful energy. I certainly hope they keep the photographer, just fire the Art Director.
The Worst
Chanel from casting, to clothes and photographs. Everything about this campaign was simply wrong! Although she's quite pretty, they managed to make Kristen look dreadful in every single picture that was published. The clothes didn't help the matter as they mostly looked wrinkly and hideous, I can't believe they actually wasted money on that cr*p.
Dior this line-up is already sad. It's about to include all the brand that once used to be powerhouses of brilliant design and photography (except for Stella, she always kind of s*cked). I almost didn't put Dior on the list because despite being undoubtedly the worst campaign of the season, it's exactly what you'd expect. Tired, old and sad! Each word a perfect epitome of MGC.
Louis Vuitton is another campaign I really had no expectations for, but was disappointed nonetheless. I hated it as soon as I saw Collier's name attached to it, but the photography validated my prejudice. It's a dreadful, pedestrian and overly dark for spring. It's simply all wrong!
Tom Ford I don't even have words for this. All of the above^ but twice as bad. To have some of the most legendary fashion campaigns of all time to your name (think Gucci) and then have the audacity to tarnish that memory with such mediocrity and ugliness? Shameful.
Stella McCartney upsets me for the sheer abuse of Amber Valletta in those dreadful photographs! She covered her gorgeous face with leaves for Christ's sake!! The campaign is so ugly it should be banned.
Balenciaga because.... Demna.
