Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2019

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Oct 2, 2018.

  1. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

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    C'mon... might as well since we only now have Louis Vuitton to go. Best and worst of the season? :boxer:

    My personal favorite has to go to Max Mara, while the worst has to have been Hedi Slimane's debut at Celine. As per usual I loathed what Maria Grazia Chiuri done for Christian Dior too!
     
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  2. helmutnotdead

    helmutnotdead Well-Known Member

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    OMG. The Louis Vuitton show... no words. I haven't seen this level of garbage in years.
     
  3. Ruito

    Ruito Member

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    in alphabetical order:

    Alexander McQueen
    Comme des Garçons
    Dries Van Noten
    Erdem
    Fendi
    Givenchy
    JW Anderson
    Louis Vuitton
    Prada
    Valentino
     
  4. Morgane07

    Morgane07 Active Member

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    Best for me are Max Mara and Haider Ackermann.
    Worst are Off-White and Celine.
     
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  5. GivenchyAddict

    GivenchyAddict Well-Known Member

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    This season I wanted to be challenged, to see collections that will divide people, will raise questions, make me doubt about how I see clothes, about my own taste. So not really a best and worst but just the ones who gave me a feeling because past seasons everything was so monotonous :

    Louis Vuitton
    Miu Miu
    Prada
    Comme Des Garçons
    Versace
    Thom Browne
    Marine Serre
    Paco Rabanne
    Loewe
    Balenciaga
    Dries van Noten
    Burberry
     
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  6. jeanclaude

    jeanclaude Well-Known Member

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    Can´t say which one is the best, because I find them all boring as hell!
    I cannot understand designers obsession with the 80s right now, this feels like Spring-Summer 1989 rather than 2019!

    But the worse for me is clearly Slimane´s debut at Céline (and I refuse to write the brand without the accent mark). It´s the worst because with just one collection he has destroyed the image of this brand, that Phoebe Philo managed to create from nothing.

    So many collections, so many shows. And an overdose of pure boredom.
     
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  7. dontbeadrag

    dontbeadrag Active Member

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    Best:
    Paco Rabanne, Sjes Marjan, Loewe, Balenciaga, Hermes

    Worst:
    Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Comme des Garçons.

    Meh:
    The rest
     
  8. Sensation

    Sensation V.I.P.

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    My top 10 favorite:

    1. Carolina Herrera
    2. Chloe
    3. Delpozo
    4. Haider Ackermann
    5. Loewe
    6. Miu Miu
    7. Prada
    8. Salvatore Ferragamo
    9. Max Mara
    10. Oscar de la Renta
     
  9. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    I think this season more than highlighted how commercial fashion has been. Fashion is a business first and a very lucrative one. Now that brands are selling more clothes the collections are more sellable, maybe less memorable.

    I’m always looking for a feeling of high fashion or a spirit...Something more than beautiful clothes.

    My favorite shows are:
    Tom Ford
    Marc Jacobs
    JW Anderson
    Burberry (mostly for the first part)
    Prada
    Jacquemus
    Dries Van Noten
    Chloé
    Haider Ackermann
    Valentino
    Loewe
    CDG (her best in a longtime)
    Thom Browne
    Chanel
    Vuitton

    The worst:
    Celine, Celine, Celine, Celine
    Michael Kors
    Courreges
    Gareth Pugh
    Proenza Schouler
    Dior (MGC is, with Hedi, the laziest designer ever)

    Disappointments:
    Versace
    Junya Watanabe (his worst collection imo)
    Phillip Lim
    Fendi (beautiful clothes, bad styling with too much bags)
    Stella McCartney
     
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  10. Ruito

    Ruito Member

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    ok, my new Top 10 Spring 2019 Collections in alphabetical order:

    Alexander McQueen
    Balenciaga
    Comme des Garçons
    Dries Van Noten
    Erdem
    Fendi
    Givenchy
    JW Anderson
    Prada
    Valentino

    The worst/most disappointing collections were Céline (of course!) mainly because it was very boring but my worst got to be Off-White this season.

    Cheers!
     
  11. YohjiAddict

    YohjiAddict Active Member

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    Best:
    Comme Des Garçons
    Loewe
    Louis Vuitton
    Tom Ford
    Simone Rocha
    Rick Owens: more so the wearable pieces, but I loved the energy.
    Yohji Yamamoto

    Good:
    Jil Sander: Next season, with a stronger styling, it could make the best list for me.
    Sacai
    Balenciaga: Getting back to basics was a smart choice.
    Lemaire

    Worst:
    Off-White: Makes me want to die.
    Rodarte: So bad I can't unsee it.
    Proenza Schouler: One more nail in their coffin.
    Céline: Should have stayed at SLP and spared us all this hype and non-sense.
    Gareth Pugh: That awful construction sends shivers down my spine.
    Courrèges: Tackier than Jeremy Scott.

    Dissapointments:
    Jacquemus: Made me regret that I actually defended him a year ago.
    Junya Watanabe
    Philip Lim
    Marc Jacobs: sort of, I don't expect much from him but his shows are at least entretaining and this one was an eyesore.
    Burberry
    Valentino: I did like the black section at the beggining, the rest was just messy
    Prada: I'll keep waiting for those good ol' days to make a comeback...
     
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  12. disco54

    disco54 Well-Known Member

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    Favs:

    Marc Jacobs
    Loewe
    Lemaire
    Giambattista Valli

    Worst:
    Celine , Prada, Calvin Klein
     
  13. StoneSkipper

    StoneSkipper Well-Known Member

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    The two collections that I actually felt and loved this season were:
    Dries Van Noten
    Comme des Garçons


    Collections I liked:
    3.1 Phillip Lim
    Akris
    Ashish
    Chalayan
    Chloé
    Christopher John Rogers
    Delpozo
    Gabriela Hearst
    Haider Ackermann
    Issey Miyake
    Koché
    Marc Jacobs
    Marni
    Moschino
    Naeem Khan
    Paco Rabanne
    Pyer Moss
    Richard Malone
    Sonia Rykiel
    Tom Ford
    Yohji Yamamoto

    And the collections I disliked were:
    Blumarine
    Celine!!!
    Christopher Kane
    Courrèges
    Dolce & Gabbana
    Iceberg
    LaQuan Smith
    Longchamp
    Michael Kors
    Miu Miu
    Mugler
    No. 21
    Off-White
    PHILIPP PLEIN!!!
    Prabal Gurung
    Redemption
    Rodarte
    Savage x Fenty
    Thom Browne
     
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  14. lightblue

    lightblue Member

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    Thom Browne's the best.
     
  15. Psylocke

    Psylocke Active Member

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    Quite enjoyed this season. A lot of cute stuff, I feel like a lot of designers/brands actually embraced "Spring" instead of drowning women in depressing, shapeless rags. Some beautiful colors, a bit more "sexy" than in previous seasons, and f*cking finally some real diversity on the runways - I guess I'm pretty easy to please these days :lol:

    My personal favorites were:
    • Yohji Yamamoto - :wub: So dreamy, seductive, and perfect.
    • Sacai - Always enjoy her work, but this collection just had it all: wearable, unique, cool pieces that were beautifully styled in the show.
    • Haider Ackermann - In love with the suits.
    • Oliver Theyskens - This one just made me happy because I hadn't enjoyed any of his work in a while, but this one felt pretty authentic, like he was doing what he's comfortable doing without trying to be too edgy while still keeping it fresh.
    • Margaret Howell - I want to own all of it.
    • Ann Demeulemeester - Not the best collection I've ever seen, but the first one since Ann left that was somewhat noteworthy. I loved all the soft pink.
    Honorable mentions: Beautiful People, Chalayan, Melitta Baumeister, Rick Owens.

    Worst:
    Err, I saw a lot of stuff that seemed like it was going to give me nightmares but apparently nothing was quite traumatic enough to really leave much of an impression.
    I will say that I'm against this current trend of showing 90 looks in one show. I get that it's kind of old-school and all that, but holy cow we sure did see a lot of filler crap that made it hard to appreciate the better parts of the more mediocre collections.

    Also bummed that Undercover is no longer doing a womenswear show in Paris :(
     
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  16. Pricciao

    Pricciao Active Member

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    Palomo Spain
    Ann Demeulemeester men
    Alexander McQueen women
    John Galliano
    Feng Chen Wang
    Sankuanz
    Rick Owens women
    Sacai women
    Haider Ackermann
    Antonio Marras
    Issey Miyake women
    Olivier Theyskens
    Cottweiler
    Moncler x Craig Green
    Sies Marjan
     
  17. dodencebt

    dodencebt Well-Known Member

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    My favorites were Comme des Garçons, Koché, Loewe, Maison Margiela, Marni, Paco Rabanne and Yohji Yamamoto.

    Hedi's Celine was certainly my biggest disappointment of the season even though I didn't expect anything different.
     
  18. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Best of the season:

    Ashish - Sexy, simple, with lush colours.
    Preen - Interesting play with volumes and proportions!
    Margaret Howell - Effortless, unassuming and to the point.
    Issey Miyake
    Sportmax - Stayed true to form. Insanely covetable proportions.
    Loewe - I've never been on the Anderson bandwagon, but I think at Loewe he's really been getting better with each collection.
    Yohji Yamamoto
    Ulla Johnson
    Balenciaga - Hope it's a sign of things to come from Demna....
    Max Mara
    House of Holland
    Poiret - Breezy and accessible with great colours.
    Carolina Herrera - Beautifully captured mix of classic and contemporary! Take notes, ODLR and Kors.
    Boss - It's what I would've wanted to see at Calvin Klein. Yes, I'm a purist, shoot me. Wu at Boss has been a revelation to me. It's surprising how he can fall in line with codes at another house, yet can't seem to put together a decent collection for his namesake brand. That says a lot as a designer.
    Margiela
    Fendi
    Akris
    Comme des Garcons - I think she rejuvenated her cult by dabbling with wearable designs! And very strategic for not doing that around the time of the MET.
    Cushnie, Tome & Gabriella Hearst - Elegant and wearable American glamour done right!
    Simone Rocha - Some drama and experimentation!
    Roland Mouret - Bowled me over from start to end.
    Mugler


    On the fence......

    Christopher Kane - Exceptional detailing, just wish he paired it better!
    Escada - I like the take on the new Escada. I think there's some potential for them to become big. It's just time to look closely at their looks and aesthetic, and push the strongest ones harder.
    Mary Katrantzou - Ok collection. I looked at it again and can certainly admire her aesthetic. Let's hope you'll get back to basics for the next one!
    Peter Pilotto - Colours and silhouettes look great, but could do with more creative elements.
    Julian Macdonald - It feels great to see such diversity in London. Unapologetically sexy and glamorous, but a bit too much like Balmain's ugly stepsister.
    Jil Sander - So so, loved pieces here and there, but no a defined enough collection.

    Meh, but I'll give you a pass...

    Eckhaus Latta - Their 'off' collection, hopefully they'll be back in top form for Winter!
    Mansur Gavriel - Loved his unique direction of heavier pieces for summer while everyone else was throwing out more hues than the Color Run. But as a whole something was missing.
    Coach - I like that Vevers once again drilled home his new codes for Coach, but hated the lack of coherence.
    Matty Bovan - Textbook London in terms of sensibility, would like to see it him tackle another subject matter.
    Ferragamo - Keen to see how they'll expand with the rebranding.
    Gucci - Michele need to slowly work his way out of this maximalism trend because it will cave down on him like a pack of card. I saw some exit strategies in this collection. Fine tune them, now!
    Anrealage

    What happened?????

    Gareth Pugh - Whatever that was, shut it down!
    Armani - A collection which strongest point was the colours.
    Badgley & Mischka - It was their 30th anniversary. Expected something grand, maybe even comprehensive. Their clientele don't live for hype and trends, so a collection updating some of their key looks would've been great.
    Molly Goddard - Everywhere I turn I see her name, but the clothes doesnt live up to the hype.
    Prabal Gurung -
    Rodarte - Looked like a parody of fashion. They';ve definitely lost their mojo
    Marc Jacobs - Campy, tacky, corny. Actually, I'm beginning to believe Marc would be a great fit at Moschino.
    Chalayan - Gives new meaning to the term 'going through the motions'
    Richard Quinn - Too scattered.
    Oscar De La Renta - I worry about them. There's not enough to keep the existing clientele happy, and not enough to draw new ones.
    Andreas Kronthaler :sick: for Vivienne Westwood - Cliched!
    Isabel Marant

    Of course it was irrelevant....
    Philip Plein
    Altuzarra - Like I said, 'always the bridesmaid'....
    Brandon Maxwell - Lazy, contrived, perfect fodder for a boutique in Texas!
    Off White > Pyer Moss > Kanye West - Birds of a feather
    Michael Kors - Desperate for millennial dollars!
    Jeremy Scott
    Dior
    Temperley
    Tod's
    Dolce & Gabbana
    Balmain
    Elie Saab

    Not invested enough to care!
    Burberry
    Proenza Schouler
    Saint Laurent and all their clones which among others includes Celine and Redemption
    Anna Sui
    Alexa Chung
    Louis Vuitton
    Chanel
    Victoria Beckham
    Dries van Noten
    Chloe
    Givenchy
    Calvin Klein
    John Galliano
    Prada
     
  19. Ken Doll Jenner

    Ken Doll Jenner Active Member

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    BEST
    1. Tom Ford
    Leave it to Tom to offer timeless bourgeois dressing without gimmicks that don't come off as boring.
    2. J.W. Anderson
    Playful yet wearable cuts are rare in this day and age
    3. Paco Rabanne
    The clashing of identities, and globetrotting fashion at its finest
    4. Fendi
    The new (and yet, old) Prada.
    5. Thom Browne
    Thought-provoking fashion that takes me back to the heyday of McQueen.
    6. Marc Jacobs
    Drama and more drama. Kill me but I think his injection of couture grandiosity is better than Pierpaolo's
    7. Delpozo
    Hey Pierpaolo, this is how you translate codes of couture to ready-to-wear.
    8. Dries Van Noten
    Modern Workwear through the lens of Couture done in the most exquisite way
    9. Molly Goddard
    Another british talent that has successfully offered remarkable, easy day separates. Need some finesse with regards to evening looks, but this girl is going places
    10. Haider Ackermann
    A cleaner, sleeker take on unisex clothing. What Celine under Slimane should look like.

    HONORABLE MENTION
    Givenchy
    This one is a grower. I still can't get behind the 3d-floral printed evening dresses, but the looks that demonstrate a series of tailored leather jackets or blazers tucked in high-waisted trousers signifies a promising identity that, if she plays her cards right, could be a turning point for her tenure at this house. I'd say, focus more on tailoring as this is something that the house of Givenchy hasn't really developed under Tisci.
     
  20. entten

    entten Member

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    without looking through everything again, I honestly cant remember a collection. and this is always a bad sign.
    I liked chloe and paco rabanne, because they were "different" . not that much of wooza,but good and different enough in this mediocrity of SS19
    fashion bores me too death since few seasons. my eyes want to see something new.
     
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