YSL Mens S/S 05

[ebowleg]

Here it is...

These pics really do not give a good idea of what the collection looks like, but it's something

P.S. I like what I can see!

 

[ebowleg]

Here is part of an article...the rest is about Givenchy, and it will be posted in that thread

Paris men's fashion: happy endings at YSL, Givenchy

PARIS (AFP) - Men's fashion week came to a happy ending in Paris when Stefano Pilati embraced the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and Ozwald Boateng made a sharp debut at Givenchy with a wink to the label's past.

A few months ago, it would have been unthinkable to open a YSL Rive Gauche show with photos of the legendary couturier on loan from his own foundation, what with all the bad blood between Saint Laurent and star designer Tom Ford.

But Ford is gone and his former right-hand man Pilati has taken his place. For his YSL debut, the Italian chose to stage a low-key showroom presentation in the building next door to Saint Laurent's former couture house.

In a sign of new beginnings, Saint Laurent's longtime business partner Pierre Berge -- never one of Ford's big fans -- showed up to encourage Pilati for his debut effort, which was as elegant as the designer himself.

For spring-summer 2005, Pilati reinterpreted the sleek, dashing 1970s Saint Laurent look as captured in photographs of the French designer taken by Helmut Newton and Jean-Loup Sieff.

The 38-year-old Italian designer, pleased with the well-received remembrance of things past, said humbly: "I want to work to establish the label, not myself."

Times have indeed changed since the superstar Ford left YSL and Gucci. Even YSL chairman Mark Lee said he was happy, "as is the rest of the house, to have someone who is 100 percent devoted to the label."

 

[PrinceOfCats]

From what I can see I love it especially the yellow blazer...

 

[Dior]

sexy...who is he

 

[tott]

From what little there is to see, it looks very YSL.

But maybe also slightly stale...?

 

[Lena]

"I want to work to establish the label, not myself."

i love Pilati's attitude but i wish we could see more of the collection

thanks for the visuals

 

[Alejandro]

Originally posted by PrinceOfCats@Jul 5th, 2004 - 2:51 pm
From what I can see I love it especially the yellow blazer...

That blazer is to die for

 

[Meg]

Originally posted by Lena@Jul 6th, 2004 - 5:57 am

"I want to work to establish the label, not myself."

i love Pilati's attitude but i wish we could see more of the collection

My man problem with Tom Ford

 

[kit]

From the little that we have here , Stephano Pilati has let ' Good Taste ' dictate the essentials of this debut collection . B)

I LOVE it and have been looking forwood to the day that FINALLY sees the end of Tom Ford's philosophy for the house .

QUOTE ( from an interview in ARENA HOMME + A / W 01 / OO ) .

" GUCCI is LOS ANGELES , St.Laurent is PARIS .

'The GUCCI man is very obvious, 'FORD says .' He's sexual, he enjoys fun women , fast cars , money , things - and it shows .
The St.Laurent man is more intellectual, more complex, flashy in a different sense . Darker , maybe a little more sinister . But very rich. Even to the point of making you sick to your stomach. "

I could not think of any philosophy that runs more counter to the ideals of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche , as set up in 1968 .

Maybe times have changed , but I feel that Stephano Pilati , in showing respect for the traditions of this great house , comes nearest to what is required in this new era of ' elegance ' both in men's and womens clothes .
Lets see what Stephano comes up with in OCTOBER for the women's collection ' for further proof .

That's what makes me weep about Galliano's efforts for men , closely followed by Gaultier's and the other ' SHOWMEN ' we have been treated to in the last 2 weeks .


Maybe I am old and ' past it ' but I look for real design and beautiful clothes , NOT pyrotechnics to merely capture the attention and the front pages of the worlds sensation hungry press .

Yours in all humility ,

KIT

 

[ebowleg]

For those that are interested, you can preview the collection online at YSL.com

 

[mikeijames]

from the pictures on the website...i'm not yet impressed.

 

[mikeijames]

Originally posted by kit@Jul 6th, 2004 - 4:48 am
The St.Laurent man is more intellectual, more complex, flashy in a different sense . Darker , maybe a little more sinister . But very rich. Even to the point of making you sick to your stomach."

I could not think of any philosophy that runs more counter to the ideals of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche , as set up in 1968 .

Maybe times have changed , but I feel that Stephano Pilati , in showing respect for the traditions of this great house , comes nearest to what is required in this new era of ' elegance ' both in men's and womens clothes .
Lets see what Stephano comes up with in OCTOBER for the women's collection ' for further proof.

Maybe I am old and ' past it ' but I look for real design and beautiful clothes , NOT pyrotechnics to merely capture the attention and the front pages of the worlds sensation hungry press.

although i must confess that i was not around to understand what the initial philosophy of ysl rive gauche was in 1968, i must say that as a consumer of today, tom fords collections had an immediate and tangible allure. while i hope that pilati succeeds and bringing another dimension of ysl to the menswear, the clothes i saw did not carry with them that moody excitement i found in ford's clothes.

be it right or wrong: ford's vision of the ysl man i think is one that coincides with what the majority of the public associates with st. laurent.

 

[softgrey]

what's on the website is a complete homage to YSL...those are all portraits of YSL himself...that have been re-done...

i don't like the model and the stupid slicked back long hair...this is very distracting to me...and ysl's famous glasses are missing...

however...the clothes are VERY YSL...especially the wide lapels and narrow trousers...i would have loved to see those images in colour...

i can't say yet whether it's good or bad...but it is very YSL...so i guess that's good in some ways...a good start...back to basics and build from there...very european i think...very french...

and as lena said...i reallyh like the attitude pilati presents himself with...humility is a very attractive quality...

 

[kit]

Originally posted by softgrey@Jul 8th, 2004 - 12:14 pm
what's on the website is a complete homage to YSL...those are all portraits of YSL himself...that have been re-done...

i don't like the model and the stupid slicked back long hair...this is very distracting to me...and ysl's famous glasses are missing...

however...the clothes are VERY YSL...especially the wide lapels and narrow trousers...i would have loved to see those images in colour...

i can't say yet whether it's good or bad...but it is very YSL...so i guess that's good in some ways...a good start...back to basics and build from there...very european i think...very french...

and as lena said...i reallyh like the attitude pilati presents himself with...humility is a very attractive quality...

AGREED in every way , Soft

It IS a new beginning , and ' pace ' mikiejames , Ford's collections WERE more modern as they HAD to be , 1968 being eons ago , but the new millenium collections never seemed to catch what Soft refers to , ' very european , very French . '
That's why I included the quote about Ford's vision of Gucci . The Ford YSL collections were not greatly different from those he did for Gucci , and did NOT have that essential French chic , imho .

KIT

 

[ebowleg]

I was disappointed when I saw that they were all in black n' white...but it's better than nothing, I guess

 

[Spike413]

I don't know, from what I saw on the website it didn't look any different then what YSL Homme was doing while Ford was there. I mean, his menswear collections were so much more subdued and in a way, boring then the menswear coming from Gucci. Hate Ford for trashing YSL womens if you want, but YSL men was about dandified suiting with a European air, which is why I say, this collection was no different.

 

[Spacemiu]

much much better than tom in design and personality

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by Spike413@Jul 9 2004, 03:26 PM
I don't know, from what I saw on the website it didn't look any different then what YSL Homme was doing while Ford was there. I mean, his menswear collections were so much more subdued and in a way, boring then the menswear coming from Gucci. Hate Ford for trashing YSL womens if you want, but YSL men was about dandified suiting with a European air, which is why I say, this collection was no different.

[snapback]310219[/snapback]​

menswear is all about subltleties...so the differences you see are subtle...the width of a lapel ..the size of a cuff...the spread of a collar....you have to look closely at all the details...and truthfully...i think the YSL customer is an older european businessman...very tradtitional and particular in his way of dress...if it is too overtly sexy...these men will look elsewhere for their wardrobe staples...

ysl had a very loyal following for years... i think they are trying to lure those customers back...and then build from there...good business strategy...imo...

 

[runner]

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche shot by Nathaniel Goldberg

 

[runner]

and the article from FWD

Rive Gauche Homme: Nostalgic Yet New

July 07, 2004 - Paris

The most famous fashion house of the past four decades unveiled the first full collection by its latest designer. And, in his first time at bat at the house of Yves Saint Laurent, this experienced rookie hit a home run.

Stefano Pilati, the house’s new creative director, chose a tactful device to unveil his first interpretation of the Saint Laurent look – a nostalgic homage.

Guests arriving in the YSL show space were greeted by 14 photos culled from the archives of the house or loaned by Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge. The black and white images by Helmut Newton, Jean Loup Sieff, Peter Caine and Duane Michaels were the starting point for this collection, which instantly recalled Saint Laurent, even as Pilati subtly updated the look.

"I think that you have to be respectful. And one has to begin discreetly. This is Saint Laurent after all," Pilati told FWD over a nip of champagne and a trademark Rothmans in an office upstairs.

It, too, included more photos of Saint Laurent, from the iconic nude image of Yves to a rather brilliant portrait shot by Berge of the handsome designer relaxing on a Moroccan beach after his traumatic term of military duty.

Gesturing at the images in his office, Pilati says: "Let’s start from these ideas for this season. Then, myself and my team can take it in some new directions."

Even as we speak, photographer Nathaniel Goldberg is busy in the adjoining room shooting the look book and possible ad campaign for Rive Gauche Homme 2005.

"We are still working out how we want to do the ad campaign. Maybe we will link it to the women’s ads, maybe we will not," explains Pilati, perched on a black velveteen couch in a white minimalist room. "And please don’t say this looks like Tom Ford. My own office is round the corner in another building."

Pilati has clearly worked hard to guarantee a good rapport with Berge and Saint Laurent, but as anyone who knows this designer’s rather Parisian personal style, the friendship is based on shared values not pure politics. Where Berge and Saint Laurent seemed to delight in undermining Pilati’s predecessor Tom Ford, they clearly enjoy the diplomatic touch of Stefano, a fluent French speaker.

"Very good and very Saint Laurent," was Berge’s description of Pilati’s first efforts for Rive Gauche to FWD.

The clothes themselves recall the halcyon days when Rive Gauche represented something revolutionary in men’s wear, even if the clothes look fairly classical today. However, with each item, Pilati manages to inject a novel twist.

Take the classic striped blazer, which Pilati himself was wearing. At first sight it seemed snugly cut and typical, before a touch of the hand reveals a key reason the blazer hangs so well is the choice of fabric - Japanese denim. Stefano showed several classic Rive Gauche suede and leather safaris, in perfectly chosen khaki and beige. But each time the detailing – a stiffened collar, back button or slanted pocket – made the garment his own. Moreover, using Italian leather apparel plants owned by the Gucci Group, the owner of the saint Laurent house, insured a super slick finish.

Pilati posed the looks on stockmen, not live models, and accessorized them with silk pocket handkerchiefs and scarves. And really, why use models when the designer better evokes the Saint Laurent men’s image then any catwalker could. Yet, while dandified and even a tad precious, using tougher fabrics like military cottons from Japan prevented the mood being too effete. Also on display were elongated lace-up shoes in leather and canvas and great long loafers with wingtip details and tassels, worn to effect by Pilati himself.

Pilati and his newly trimmed beard are off to Cinque Terre, the rugged region on the Ligurian coastline

"Sun, sea, wine and sleep," says Stefano of holiday plans in his stone cottage in Cinque Terre, a national reserve linked only by mule tracks and a local train line.