The last suit I bought from YSL was Ford's last collection, and my friend Peter bought several: the width of the lapels, the scale of the shoulders versus the suppression of the waist, the details like the working tab on the first button of the working 4-button sleeve closures, these were all dealMAKER details that the Gucci collections lacked that same season, and why we spent much more money at YSL. I much preferred Tom Ford's subtler but no less sexy take on menswear at YSL than at Gucci this past Fall, but as far as I know, it may have been the fact that Pilati was already there influencing those details through into production. The Gucci jackets didn't have the same amount of subtlety, nor did we feel as attractive in them, maybe because the feeling the Gucci clothing presented was much brasher.
I have yet to see and try on the YSL clothing at the store level, but I'm curious to see how much has changed. Runway models and final production are never the same, and there was always a lot more room in the production items than what was shown on the runway (not unlike how women's skirts will be shipped with longer hems than as shown in the shows). So far, when I saw Pilati's collection photographs, there seemed to be even more stiffness that seemingly indicated both more properness, less sensuality and more reserve. I don't like it in the photographs, but as a buyer of the clothing, I know that that will translate into structure that I will likely like a lot (Sebastien is more robust of build than I, anyhow). The colors are certainly softer and in less showy combinations, but that never matters to me since I will always mix and match items in my wardrobe. I'm looking forward to (hopefully) enjoying the new (old again) YSL.
I have yet to see and try on the YSL clothing at the store level, but I'm curious to see how much has changed. Runway models and final production are never the same, and there was always a lot more room in the production items than what was shown on the runway (not unlike how women's skirts will be shipped with longer hems than as shown in the shows). So far, when I saw Pilati's collection photographs, there seemed to be even more stiffness that seemingly indicated both more properness, less sensuality and more reserve. I don't like it in the photographs, but as a buyer of the clothing, I know that that will translate into structure that I will likely like a lot (Sebastien is more robust of build than I, anyhow). The colors are certainly softer and in less showy combinations, but that never matters to me since I will always mix and match items in my wardrobe. I'm looking forward to (hopefully) enjoying the new (old again) YSL.
