Yves Saint Laurent S/S 05 Paris

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by LostInNJ, Oct 10, 2004.

  1. TheSweetest

    TheSweetest New Member

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    It's her. See... :wink:
    [​IMG]

    (This is just me, but weird enough, I always get Caroline Winberg and Dewi Dreigen confused and then I saw the Chloe campaign and didn't feel stupid anymore. They do resemble.)

    this was my absolutely favorite dress. :D
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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    My one problem with this is, there is no distinction between Pilati and YSL himself. Where's Pilati's signature, what makes this collection Pilati for YSL rather then Pilati as YSL. While I'm not saying it's bad (even though what I saw was so not my style) it's not very exciting. At least with Tom running things it was new and different.....this just seems very much what Yves would've done, and that's not what I want in a new designer.
     
  3. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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  4. metal-on-metal

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    Well, it IS a house that bears his name. I think he's entitled to an opinion even if he doesn't have a holding share in the stock. I understand your point but I don't see anything wrong with Yves wanting to have a continued say in what goes on.
     
  5. AlexN

    AlexN New Member

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    Mine, too. There are a bunch of duds in this collection, but I love that it's getting back into the true spirit of Yves.
     
  6. purplelucrezia

    purplelucrezia New Member

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    That's exactly what I was thinking, actually. Especially one of the black dotted, ruffled blouses, which seem very her. Normally this type of collection with of a lot of blouses and skirts would honestly bore me, but I do like this. The belts are fun, quite retro and I thought that dress with the polka dots cut out was original and sort of unexpected. I like this, I want to see more from the new designer! :woot:
     
  7. purplelucrezia

    purplelucrezia New Member

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    Maybe because it's his first collection he wants to sort of respect the original vision and build from there? :flower:
     
  8. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    i would completely agree with you spike...if pilati was designing under his own name...but he's not...

    that's why i always said that if tom ford wanted to do what he wanted to do...he should start his own label...not ride on the coatails of another designer's legacy...

    you see spike...what ysl did is what built that company to what it is today...
    and pilati has been hired to bring that company back to its former glory....
    not create his own label...that's the difference...imo... :flower:
     
  9. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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    Yeah, I totally get why Pilati may have done that, but even when Elbaz was designing, there was still his own signature, you know what I mean? Galliano is an example of this, well, back when he started at Dior. He respected the signature of the house but didn't let that stifle his personal vision, to me that's what made it exciting.

    I just hope that Pilati loosens the ties of the name so to speak, I want to see what he's all about, not what he thinks Yves will approve of.
     
  10. saturnine

    saturnine New Member

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    Some of the most awful tripe I have ever witnessed. :sick:

    This stuff belongs in the back of the closet along with the rest of the 80's memorabilia.
     
  11. LibertyRose

    LibertyRose memoirs of a...

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    Not sure what the fuzz is about. This collection puts me to sleep. It's not outstanding in anyway except that it presents a clear departure from Tom Ford's YSL, which I loved sometimes. The first two pokka-dotted exits are fresh, but it goes down from there. The safari belt and bell-shaped skirt don't go together. And the neon-colored cocktail dresses are awful beyond imagination.

    Unexciting. The only surprise is how un-Ford it is.
     
  12. PrinceOfCats

    PrinceOfCats Naturellement pulpeuse

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    Polka dots and big belts were the seventies... :innocent:
     
  13. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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    yes, this rears it's ugly head again...i think that tom ford's perspective was a lot fresher and more modern than pilati's although pilati's is much more true-to-the-house.

    i just wonder will his collection pull the house out of a slump that large (or will it be skewed given that i haven't heard of any store openings slated and they released that new cinema fragrance)
     
  14. saturnine

    saturnine New Member

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    That too.
     
  15. ignitioned32

    ignitioned32 Mannikin

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    Excellent points Lena, m-o-m. :flower: I love reading your posts.
     
  16. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    suzy menkes...
    PARIS It is no secret that the poetic nostalgia of Marcel Proust has suffused the heart and the art of Yves Saint Laurent. And a remembrance of things past, used as an aquatint on a contemporary canvas, should be the artistic mission of any designer taking over a brand with a powerful history and culture.
    .
    So when Stefano Pilati set out to create his debut collection, after working as an assistant to Tom Ford at YSL Rive Gauche, giving a Proustian soul to the summer 2005 collection must have seemed a smart and sensitive concept. But think of the fin de si?cle silhouette, meld it with YSL's strict tailoring and romantic fluidity and what do you get? Oh dear! Ruffled bustles.
    .
    They appeared as wayward frills or tight rosettes at the back of skirts, under fitted jackets or more often on their own on gauzy meringues of dresses. Sometimes cute from the front as frothy cocktail dresses, the rear looked like chicks in an Easter parade. Even the polka-dot fabric, with which Pilati opened the show, was turned into a snowstorm of all-over ruffles, although it also came as a chic coat with the wide shiny leather belt that anchored most of the trim day clothes.
    .
    Ford had created a high-gloss polish that captured some of the YSL chic, although he had hardly begun to explore the rich heritage of tailoring. Pilati tried his hand at a cropped pants safari suit and evening dresses with a boiler suit bib at the front. But the show stubbornly refused to take flight, even with all those bouncing ruffles, pom poms on shoes and a juicy color palette that included purple suede and yellow organza. Perhaps he was unwise to tap into the 1980s period when Saint Laurent's inventiveness had been overtaken by technical virtuosity. The master may have been able to play with ruffles swinging high and low from thigh to ankle. Truncated to a tulip shape on dresses, the hemlines looked as unstable as the bustles.
    .
    The entire strategy of trying to find a continuity of creativity for retiring designers is stalling worldwide, with no successor found at Givenchy and muted success at Calvin Klein. Perhaps it is time to call in brand consultants to define the house codes and develop them strategically. Is it so difficult to focus on a YSL blazer, trench, tux, safari jacket and give them a concise, modern cut and fabric, rather than bustling about to invent a new image of "Les Jeunes Filles en Fleurs"?
    .
    Intriguingly, Alber Elbaz, currently at Lanvin, was the designer whom Saint Laurent's partner Pierre Berg? asked to take over the reins at Rive Gauche, where Elbaz started to crack the polished chic and replace the impeccable with the approachable. The consequent unfolding of the Elbaz aesthetic - womanly, graceful and respectful - proves just how smart Berg? was. For the Lanvin collection was one of the best in a powerhouse Paris season.
    .
     
  17. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    The entire strategy of trying to find a continuity of creativity for retiring designers is stalling worldwide, with no successor found at Givenchy and muted success at Calvin Klein. Perhaps it is time to call in brand consultants to define the house codes and develop them strategically. Is it so difficult to focus on a YSL blazer, trench, tux, safari jacket and give them a concise, modern cut and fabric,
    [snapback]411059[/snapback]​
    [/quote]


    call me ...call me... :woot: :lol:
     
  18. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    found these images of some original saint laurent...i thought it was interesting to see where this is all coming from...

    vogue-1971...shot by david bailey... :heart: :flower:
    the original... :wink:
     
  19. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    this is a still from the 1967 french film...'belle du jour' ...starring the breathtaking catherine deneuve...YSL did the wardrobe for this film and deneuve became a lifelong devotee of the designer... always in the front row at his shows...

    notice the epaulettes and silver buttons on her shoulders here... :wink: :woot:
    another ysl signature...
    :heart:
     
  20. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

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    another still from the movie...this time a gorgeous patent leather trench... :heart: :P
     

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