Zegna Menswear S/S 2026 Dubai

[LadyJunon]

 

[Phuel]

I find this person’s POV the most reductive, quickly surpassing of any CD working today. I suppose he’s attempting to copy the phenomenal success of Anthony’s YSL of basics with strong styling to fool the sheep into believing it’s all shiny and new.

But unlike Anthony’s hustle, this is all such polite, bland and tasteful basics shamelessly ripped off wholesale from any given high-end department store of the 90s, just dressed up with needlessly pretentious staging and soundtrack (James must be paid generously to play the lounge singer here). The gimmick of wrinkled glen plaids, of which were already hustled in the 90s, is so tiresome, so stale 5min in. And if they’re showing in Dubai, how about casting a more visible ME representation…???

 

[oioioi]

Looks like a collection that reflects the various ages and stages of men who buy Zegna, but with a lighter playfulness within the strict perimeters and structure of what a classic, Italian, manufacturing serious tailoring business Zegna is.
Some of the casting and relaxed casual separates remind me of Lemaire.
Considering how conservative the majority of their customer is, especially the perception of the brand in Italy and how difficult it is to make ‘changes’ in this company as opposed to LVMH, Kering brands, he is finding ways in those confines.
It is what it is!

 

[yslforever]

Yes, it is what it is ! It's not fashion, nor Fashion, nor FASHION, it's an clothing line, but compared to their benchmark (Loro Piana, Brunello, the higher-end lines of Ralph Lauren) I just find it quite nice they do make an effort, even it ends up looking like a mashup of COS and Lemaire, and a bit of Véronique Nichanian.
A+ for the palette. Not easy to offer this kind of strong yet subtle colours for such a conservative segment of menswear, or menswear in general.
EDIT; anyway, they are here to sell XXX sneakers, not to reinvent fashion for men adverse to "changes".

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

To me that was the mens equivalent of the last Silvia's Fendi.
Beautiful, subdued and elegant color palette, superwell crafted, epithome of the most discreet italianità, exquisitely boring.

Or maybe I am making that connection because of the colour of the floor.

 

[PDFSD]

just reminds me of all the department stores corners filled with rows of rows of beige brown navy stuff and that there is to many clothes being produced each season for no reason.

 

[eugenius]

Minus those wrinkled pieces (which I assume will look a lot better in real life), I don't see any faults here.

The cut looks good. The color palette looks good. And with those textiles, I WANT to touch it, I WANT to try it on, I WANT to live in it, so there's the tactile sensation, too (but I can't imagine a Zegna w/ crap fabrics in the first place). And I'm happy that he moved on from that oversized look and slimmed down the silhouette here.

Yeah, I can see similarities w/ Lemaire & Nichanian's Hermes, but that's good company to be in, so I don't see anything wrong with that.

Hell, even the shorts look good. And menswear shorts on the runway rarely look stylish. Dries did it well, and this designer does, too.

All in all, I'm quite impressed by this, so this get 3 snaps up in z-formation from me.

 

[eugenius]

Also, the plaid shirt & plaid pants on the Asian model at 14:37? Get out of my dreams, get into my closet.

 

[Kanzai]

I mean most people go Zegna for the quality yet conservative-looking menswear, not these. I have a soft spot for Sartori but his runway clothes are just merely for the brand image à la Nicolas LV, not to mention most of them are special orders. The IG has been eating up his collections for a while, so that's a success ig.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ As tiresome as Nicholas’ one-offs that will never end up in retail are, the overall image is still relative, still even inspirational to how the Vuitton customer would like to dress. It possesses a credibility. This Zegna is all giving Boomer desperately seeking to be down with Zoomer stench— thus why no surprises it’s a success on social. It’s such a unicorn phantom ideal he’s chasing that’s ridiculously non-existent. Even Stefano’s Zegna was more believable than this: It was absolutely distinctive, even if not a single Zegna customer was convinced of his 1982 new wave man.

They all do this annoying display of contrived costumes for their shows, while offering the usual merch at retail. But there’s just something so tepid about this person— as admittedly solid as some of the generic separates are, that comes off unforgivably phoney rather than unapologetically individual, that I can’t stand. HIs stunt casting is the most cringe: While Anthony casting Charlotte to play piano only strengthened his YSL, casting James— who was on every NYFW show's playlist a decade ago, play piano at your show gives 60something dad just discovering James’ music just now, hiring him to play at his child’s college graduation. I guess it’s impressive as a flex— just like corporate CEOs in Zegna business suits being convinced that this Zegna showing ripping off 90s Armani/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander wholesale and repurposed as a serene Zen Zegna is something totally shiny and new.

 

[yslforever]

I mean most people go Zegna for the quality yet conservative-looking menswear, not these. I have a soft spot for Sartori but his runway clothes are just merely for the brand image à la Nicolas LV, not to mention most of them are special orders. The IG has been eating up his collections for a while, so that's a success ig.

Also the runway pieces are barely sent to production, I don't expect the raspberry pieces or the wrinkled looks to hit the stores. I have given up that hope.

 

[QuantumCouture]

It's all about the fabrics here; they do whisper quiet luxury. The palette is sun-baked Sicilian neutrals, which has been done 7658 times now. Silhouettes are exaggerated; there is too much material that ends up hiding the models. He's projecting summer ease, but it is too literal to actually work. This is the Zegna man feeling the pressure to look relaxed.

 

[LadyJunon]

^^^ As tiresome as Nicholas’ one-offs that will never end up in retail are, the overall image is still relative, still even inspirational to how the Vuitton customer would like to dress. It possesses a credibility. This Zegna is all giving Boomer desperately seeking to be down with Zoomer stench— thus why no surprises it’s a success on social. It’s such a unicorn phantom ideal he’s chasing that’s ridiculously non-existent. Even Stefano’s Zegna was more believable than this: It was absolutely distinctive, even if not a single Zegna customer was convinced of his 1982 new wave man.

They all do this annoying display of contrived costumes for their shows, while offering the usual merch at retail. But there’s just something so tepid about this person— as admittedly solid as some of the generic separates are, that comes off unforgivably phoney rather than unapologetically individual, that I can’t stand. HIs stunt casting is the most cringe: While Anthony casting Charlotte to play piano only strengthened his YSL, casting James— who was on every NYFW show's playlist a decade ago, play piano at your show gives 60something dad just discovering James’ music just now, hiring him to play at his child’s college graduation. I guess it’s impressive as a flex— just like corporate CEOs in Zegna business suits being convinced that this Zegna showing ripping off 90s Armani/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander wholesale and repurposed as a serene Zen Zegna is something totally shiny and new.

Another difference is that not all of NG's runway collections are designed to be immediately wearable. One could validly argue that the store collections could pull more aesthetical markers from the runway, but NG's runway is more of a sartorial laboratory if anything.

This isn't the case for Zegna. Nothing here challenges what menswear could look like and nothing here appears to be so complicated that it couldn't be produced on a global scale. There really isn't a good reason for this collection to not be available in stores.

 

[Phuel]

^^^Because they know it won’t sell at retail. They don’t even have faith by offering it exclusively on their very own site LMFAO

Truth is, Zara’s already offered these sort of tired “quiet luxury” designs if anyone really must have any of these looks. (Of course Zara’s quality isn’t quite there, but with their impending summer sale, snatch up a few of the same products and go wild wearing them out. Or search out the real thing from vintage Armani/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander; throw them in the washer and hang to dry if you must have that wrinkled Comme look.)

And I loathe the contrived, faux-daring tranquil/serene/meditative imagery that comes off so Zen101 moodboard-by-committee here: The barefoot older gentleman carrying a pair of leather espadrilles on the runway is pure cringe. And don’t forget to zoom in that he’s carrying the leather espadrilles instead of wearing them LOOL

Corporate phoney.

 

[LadyJunon]

^^^Because they know it won’t sell at retail. They don’t even have faith by offering it exclusively on their very own site LMFAO

Truth is, Zara’s already offered these sort of tired “quiet luxury” designs if anyone really must have any of these looks. (Of course Zara’s quality isn’t quite there, but with their impending summer sale, snatch up a few of the same products and go wild wearing them out. Or search out the real thing from vintage Armani/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander; throw them in the washer and hang to dry if you must have that wrinkled Comme look.)

And I loathe the contrived, faux-daring tranquil/serene/meditative imagery that comes off so Zen101 moodboard-by-committee here: The barefoot older gentleman carrying a pair of leather espadrilles on the runway is pure cringe. And don’t forget to zoom in that he’s carrying the leather espadrilles instead of wearing them LOOL

Corporate phoney.

Had the runway been covered in sand, it would've made so much more sense.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

They really tried to do a Lemaire-Haider collision here but it’s just so fickle. I look at this and it is objectively nice, I’m sure there’s plenty of wardrobe fodder IF it were to be produced for the shop floor. It’s all just so bland and too sartorial for its own good.

It’s good and luxuriating visual fodder, but it’s also not convincing. Nice to see it more relaxed despite it still being rather contrived at its core.

 

[Mody]

I am wondering how BC and LP are considered more luxurious or have more authority in menswear than Zegna. I find Zegna with Stefano and the early days of this current CD, is much fashionable and better designed than those two brands. Any idea?

 

[Nader]

Zegna's quality overall simply doesn't compare to LP's offerings in my experience. It's not bad, though. As for more fashionable, not really in practice since practically nothing from their runway ends up in stores. They usually end up being more boring, and it feels like they are following rather than leading (like with the vellus aureum basically a copy of LP's Gift of Kings merino, and it is not better). It is actually quite a feat to be more boring than LP. I don't find Brunello to be particularly better quality or more luxurious though. I do love a few of my Zegna pieces though, most notably the cashmere overshirt they made with The Elder Statesman a couple years back. Frankly, I would choose Agnona over Zegna every time.

 

[tourbillions]

didnt know agnona made menswear. anyway both lp and zegn and bc are all so boring. they are the type i just wait to go on 70% sale to get high quality basics.

 

[kasper!]

Most of the time you just see boring gray/navy/sand colour business style items in Zegna store.