Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Open Discussion Thread

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The first official news of the upcoming Fall 2023 haute couture shows just dropped, with Valentino announcing they will stage their show at Château de Chantilly near Paris on July 5:



The haute couture schedule will run from July 3 - 6, according to WWD also.
 
The first official news of the upcoming Fall 2023 haute couture shows just dropped, with Valentino announcing they will stage their show at Château de Chantilly near Paris on July 5:



The haute couture schedule will run from July 3 - 6, according to WWD also.

Now this is how a couture house does destination shows. PPP way be a worse designer than MGC, but Dior could take this show formula.
 
The first official news of the upcoming Fall 2023 haute couture shows just dropped, with Valentino announcing they will stage their show at Château de Chantilly near Paris on July 5:



The haute couture schedule will run from July 3 - 6, according to WWD also.

The full article:
Valentino to Stage Next Couture Show at Château de Chantilly

The show will take place on July 5 at 7.30 p.m. CET at the historic estate 30 miles north of Paris.

By MARTINO CARRERA
MAY 22, 2023, 12:01AM

MILAN — Valentino seems to a have a penchant for the roving show format.

The Roman house said its next couture show for the fall 2023 season will be staged at the Château de Chantilly, a historic 14th-century estate located in the namesake town, 30 miles north of Paris.

The runway event will take place on July 5 at 7.30 p.m. CET amid Paris Couture Week, which is slated for July 3 to 6. The off-site event is to be part of the official couture calendar, which has yet to be released.

The opulence of the location — replete with a hallway maze, lavish party salons, Renaissance-era paintings and jewelry — could be a hint of creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s direction for the collection.

The château comprises two adjoining buildings including the Petit Château, built around 1560 for Anne de Montmorency, and the Grand Château, which was destroyed during the French Revolution and rebuilt in the 1870s. It is surrounded by lush French-style gardens featuring extensive parterres, water features, pavilions and even a waterfall.

The estate is owned by the Institut de France and is open to the public.

As reported last week, Valentino revealed it is breaking away from the coed format of the past three years and will stage a dedicated men’s fashion show kicking off Milan Men’s Fashion Week on June 16.

Although Valentino has traditionally presented its couture collections in Paris, it also embraced several destinations across the seasons — including some further away from Paris.

Last summer Valentino’s “The Beginning” couture show for fall 2022 was held in Rome between Piazza Mignanelli, home to the company’s storied headquarters, and the nearby Spanish Steps. The Roman landmark at sunset provided a cinematic backdrop for Piccioli’s wondrous and dreamy couture designs sported by a diverse cast of models to a performance by Labrinth.

In July 2021, the “Valentino Des Ateliers” fall 2021 couture show was held in Venice at the Gaggiandre at the Arsenale in Venice and before that, restrictions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic drove Piccioli to hold Valentino’s fall 2020 couture show, “Of Grace and Light,” in July that year at the Cinecittà studios outside Rome in front of a very small group of journalists.

In January 2021, as Italy faced a new wave of the COVID-19 pandemic, the spring couture show was unveiled digitally, and called “Code Temporal.” It consisted of a presentation conceived by the designer in a dialogue with British artist, musician, singer and songwriter Robert Del Naja, also known as 3D, and a founding member of the band Massive Attack. Piccioli selected the 14th-century Palazzo Colonna in Rome to stage the show.
Source: WWD
 
I hope it’s better than the last few collections he’s put out because a glamorous location will not save a sucky collection.
 
Chopard, a Haute Joaillerie and Horlogerie house, is launching a Couture collection in Cannes today:

Chopard to Launch Couture Collection
The line from copresident Caroline Scheufele will launch with a fashion show in Cannes on Tuesday.

By RHONDA RICHFORD
MAY 19, 2023, 1:00AM

CANNES — After dressing the necks of the most famous women in its jewels, Chopard is launching a couture line of gowns, minis and jumpsuits ready for the red carpet.

Chopard copresident and artistic director Caroline Scheufele is the mastermind behind the line, which will consist of 50 looks. The company will stage a runway show during the Cannes Film Festival.

Dubbed “Caroline’s Couture,” the collection is designed in silhouettes that are meant to complement jewelry.

Scheufele spearheaded the development of the collection, working with a team of couturiers, and pieces are meant to coordinate and work together over time.

“I wanted to create a collection for women who, like me, want to dress in a way that is fully aligned with who they are today,” said Scheufele. “Women in love with beauty — meaning true beauty, the kind that never goes out of fashion. Pure elegance. Clothes that can be cherished over time, worn in a variety of circumstances and in countless ways, without ever losing their value or relevance.”

Scheufele said that she used the principles of jewelry — collectible, meant to last a lifetime and passed on to the next generation — as inspiration for her couture launch.

“A wardrobe like a jewelry collection, which time makes more and more precious because they are accompanied by slices of life and carry with them experiences, memories and memorable moments. It is this approach to jewelry that I wanted to transpose to clothing.”

The collection was also designed with sustainability in mind. Scheufele went for classic shapes that will last more than one season, and the staple pieces will be available on order for more than one season.

As part of the house’s social and environmental commitments, the line is embroidered at the Kalhath Institute in India, a nonprofit educational center dedicated to the preservation of craft of hand embroidery.

“The Kalhath Institute works to strengthen the skills of the artisans, to pass on this exceptional expertise within India and to put in place framework conditions enabling the craftspeople to earn fair wages — and these are exactly the kind of steps we have been taking for several years at Chopard,” said Scheufele about working with the institute.

The company says it is taking a stance against the concept of fast fashion with this collection, which is an issue at the luxury level as well.

“While the very principles of the fashion industry require the production of clothes systemically doomed to programmed obsolescence, due to the rhythm of the collections presented four to 10 times a year by the fashion houses, Caroline Scheufele adopts the same technique as for jewelry,” the company said in a statement.

Fabrics were sourced form Swiss manufacturer Jakob Schlaepfer, particularly chiffon, taffeta, duchess satin, silks and lace. Jacquards were sourced from Italian supplier Gentili Mosconi. Beading was sourced from Japan, and applied in the Indian workshops.

The premiere collection will make its debut on Tuesday in Cannes.
Source: WWD
 
The schedule for the haute couture season is now up and pinned here, at the top of Designers and Collections.
 
Along with the rest of the world, I’m sat watching the events unfold in Paris and now wondering how this upcoming season of haute couture will unfold…

Hedi Slimane has cancelled his Celine show tomorrow over security concerns. Do you think others will follow?
 
Along with the rest of the world, I’m sat watching the events unfold in Paris and now wondering how this upcoming season of haute couture will unfold…

Hedi Slimane has cancelled his Celine show tomorrow over security concerns. Do you think others will follow?
I don’t think so, but I could be wrong.
 
A peek at Schiaparelli:



Christian Dior:

 
According to the FHCM website, Schiaparelli won't be streaming their collection and a show video will be released later.
 
So Schiaparelli is doing the same art decoratif stuff and Maria is celebrating her newfound female narrative as usual? Supposing he has the gut, maybe Demna should pull a show to address the riots as he did with the Ukrainian crisis !
 
According to the FHCM website, Schiaparelli won't be streaming their collection and a show video will be released later.

That's a disappointment and a half, ugh. I adored watching the Schiaparelli live shows first thing in a morning to kick-start the festivities ahead!
 
A first look at Chanel starring Vanessa Paradis by Karim Sadli:

 
He has no clients? It's both strange and sad how he can't even produce samples and present them on mannequins like Theyskens.
Beautiful sketches and great ideas as always.
 
Last edited:
He sounds bitter. I understand why, but bitterness never really attracts the clients he wants and needs. He needs lightness and joy. He needs to evolve while staying true to himself, not stuck in a way of doing things that don’t allow him to grow. He’s very much an « In MY day we used to … » type of designer/person it seems …
 

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