Haute Couture S/S 2023 Open Discussion Thread

[vogue28]

The Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode have revealed the provisional couture calendar for the upcoming haute couture S/S 2023 season which runs January 23rd until January 26th 2023.

I have uploaded and pinned the schedule to the top of Designers and Collections here.

What's everyone most looking forward to? Haider Ackermann will present his collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, and I've

 

[gallianostan]

ackermann for gaultier is the only one i'm actually anticipating. still fuming at john for margiela not showing, yet again. everything else can burn though! (except viktor & rolf and armani privé... maybe)

 

[jeanclaude]

Rucci...

EDIT: Balenciaga not showing??

 

[Lola701]

Gaultier and Armani Privé for me!

I would add Imane Ayissi and Maison Rabih Kayrouz but not so much because of a fashion impact but because I saw some women wearing their clothes irl and I was really in love with the pieces.

But Gaultier is the only show that matters. The interview he did with Haider where Haider said that he was much more interested in the quiet side of Gaultier was the most perfect teaser ever.

No Ralph Rucci again unfortunately…I can’t take one season of drawings anymore.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL those damn scribbly sketches!

Gaultier x Ackermann is absolutely the only presentation that matters.

Too bad Balenciaga isn’t showing. Besides Galliano and Gaultier, his was the only other offering that was on the fresh and interesting trajectory. I get that he is now persona non grata to even the sheep that were blindly suckered into paying $2000USD for a cheap hot pink fleece basic that resembles insulation padding— and I’ve found his personality evolving to the intolerable point, but that doesn’t diminish that he’s still a solid talent and one of the few, if not only new designer producing remotely decent couture these days.

 

[perhydrol]

Balenciaga has one couture show per year, in July. That's why I can't say I'm surprised by their absence in this schedule. I think it's save to say Margiela has the same strategy now, they'll have one artisanal show per year. Let's see what they have for the menswear week as it's not following their genderfluid direction.

 

[Mutterlein]

It is no secret that I like and even love some Dior collections but I've learned not to get too excited. MGC is very hit and miss. I absolutely looooooooooved FW 22 HC but I won't be surprised if we end with some scuba/lace/harlequin/western/ballerina themed mess.

I think we are all in consensus that Haider's JPG collection is THE collection that matters.

Otherwise I look forward to Schiaparelli and Maison Rabih Kayrouz

And Fendi should be... funny to see.

 

[Mutterlein]

Rucci...

EDIT: Balenciaga not showing??

Couture is the last thing on their minds.

 

[bc collector]

EDIT: Balenciaga not showing??

My understanding was that, regardless of the recent PR disaster, Balenciaga Couture was meant to show just once a year, in July.

 

[LadyJunon]

My understanding was that, regardless of the recent PR disaster, Balenciaga Couture was meant to show just once a year, in July.

Remember when he threw a fit, because the FHCM temporarily kicked Balenciaga off the schedule for that.

 

[LadyJunon]

A teaser of Giambattista Valli's upcoming show:

 

[gallianostan]

A teaser of Giambattista Valli's upcoming show:

valli on tulle:

 

[Lola701]

A teaser of Giambattista Valli's upcoming show:

I trade Valli for Ralph Rucci….
It’s so predictable.

 

[LadyJunon]

I trade Valli for Ralph Rucci….
It’s so predictable.

At this point, me too.
While in theory: high fashion drama > classy conservative clothes, it's been the same tired drama for the past 5 years. Valli has really faded as a designer since he's joined Kering/Artémis. It's depressing

 

[Lola701]

At this point, me too.
While in theory: high fashion drama > classy conservative clothes, it's been the same tired drama for the past 5 years. Valli has really faded as a designer since he's joined Kering/Artémis. It's depressing

He has faded as a designer after his second Couture show 10 years ago and his last great RTW was probably in 2010.
He is maybe one of the biggest disappointment. I think about his time at Ungaro and his rise to success when started his own line in that « Demi-Couture » era. He did fabulous modern conservative clothes that I was obsessed for. His work was very fresh, very detailed and very classic couture oriented. He did some of the best cocktail dresses…He really had a sensibility that I enjoyed that was similar to Alber or Kokosalaki and that I still find in Martin Grant today.

He was seen as the next Valentino…

Now his work is too sugary, too sweet, too basic. Yes he is one of the best technically but it’s such a waste…

 

[WAVES]

I trade Valli for Ralph Rucci….
It’s so predictable.

ABSOLUTELY! would love to see a Rucci’s HC collection and not just his gorgeous sketches!

 

[LadyJunon]

Teaser of tomorrow's Schiaparelli show:

Elsa have mercy.

 

[gallianostan]

Teaser of tomorrow's Schiaparelli show:

Elsa have mercy.

this same sh*t every f*cking season

 

[vogue28]

I found myself rather obsessed (MAJOR understatement) with Schiaparelli last season, so very much excited to see what Daniel Roseberry has in store for us tomorrow. I thought his last couture collection was superb, loved the sense of old-school glamour, the music and the casting! I have high hopes.

Multiple users on Instagram commenting saying that preview reminds them of street performers!

 

[gallianostan]

Multiple users on Instagram commenting saying that preview reminds them of street performers!

they're right, and they should be allowed to say it. it's almost hilarious how tacky it looks.

someone really needs to remind daniel roseberry he's designing for a french couture house, not rupaul's drag race.