1853-1929 Jacques Doucet

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Jacques Doucet (1853 - 1929) was a French fashion designer, known for his elegant dresses, made with flimy translucent materials in superimposing pastel colors.
He was born in Paris in 1853 to a prosperous family whose lingerie and fine linens business, Doucet Lingerie, had flourushed in the Rue de la Paix since 1816. In 1871, Doucet opened a salon selling ladies apparel. An enthusiastic collector of eighteenth-century furniture, objets d'art, paintings and sculptures, many of his gowns were strongly influenced by this opulent era. A designer of taste and discrimination, Doucet valued dignity and luxury above novelty and practicality and therefore gradually went out of popularity during the 1920s. By far his most original designs were those he created for actresses of the time. Cecile Sorel, Rejane and Sarah Bernhardt (for whom he designed her famous white costume in L'Aiglon) all often wore his outfits, both on and off the stage. For the aforementioned actresses he reserved a particular style, one which consisted of frills, sinuous curving lines and lace ruffles the colors of faded flowers.
A passionate collector of art and literature throughout his life, by the time of his death he had a magnificent collection of Post-Impressionist and Cubist paintings (including "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon", which he bought direct from Picasso's studio), as well as two libraries of manuscripts by contemporary writers, both of which he left to the French nation.
While little-remembered today, in his time he was equalled to the likes of Charles Worth and Jeanne Paquin and even now is remembered by fashion historians as one of the great old masters of fashion design.

Also see: http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/doucet.html

Ensemble (Dress), 1920–1923, wool, silk, glass;

metmuseum.org

 

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You can see more images of these dresses at http://www.antiquedress.com/item4576.htm

antiquedress.com

 

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#1379 $3900

Jacques Doucet silk brocade evening cape, c.1905

Jacques Doucet (grandson of Mme. Doucet) prided himself on being a gentleman as well as a couturier: a gentleman who produced luxurious but unostentatious creations in perfect taste. Clientele of the House of Doucet included the elite of American and European society, royalty like Emperor Napoleon III, and the Kings of Bavaria and the Netherlands.

Doucet also dressed famous Parisian actresses, like Réjane, celebrated for her performance as Madame Sans-Gêne (Napoleon’s laundress, who married one of his marshals). Réjane was a particular friend, who showcased his clothes on and off the stage. When Jacques Doucet took over the family business at 21 Rue de la Paix, he took the already successful couture establishment to new heights.

This evening cape is a magnificent statement in restrained luxury. The decoration is minimal, allowing full attention to the superb fabric. I love the lavender color! The floral pattern of the silk brocade is echoed in the stripes of handmade Irish crochet lace. The dramatic sweep of the skirt is balanced by a large cape-collar trimmed with feathers. The cape is totally lined with ivory satin. This is the sort of cape that Réjane could have worn to make a grand entrance!

The condition is very good. Unfortunately, there are some splits in the silk brocade, but luckily they are stabilized and held in place by the lining construction. Also, the lining is shredding around the collar. This could easily be replaced, but I did not do so, because I want you to be able to see that the label is original to the cape. These problems do not mar the beauty of the piece, but are reflected in the price. In excellent condition, this cape would be offered at $5000 plus.

http://www.vintagetextile.com/newpage92.htm

 

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#2787 - c. 1890 RARE DOUCET - PARIS Couture Black Velvet Beaded Waistcoat Jacket! Jacques Doucet was the genius at the helm of the House of Doucet, from 1853-1929. A contemporary of Charles F.Worth, the House of Doucet was known for maintaining a character of gracious elegance and unsurpassed fine workmanship. The firm was located on the famous Rue de la Paix, just doors away from Worth. Both Paul Poiret and Madame Vionnet worked with Doucet early in their careers. The arts and decoration of the 18th century fascinated Doucet and he collected garments of the period. Many of the items created by the house were based on historical prototypes. A plush blue-black silk velvet, designed after the court waistcoats of the late 18th century, with opulent and glittering decorative jet beadwork. Beautiful construction and workman throughout. A museum piece with the silk ivory lining in need of conservation, as it has nearly all shattered. I'm assuming a collar is missing (may have been a stand-up, or a lace similar to another Paris couture beaded jacket I have labeled A. Felix). The velvet is in excellent condition with only extreme minor bead loss in the exquisite design. Measures: 34/35" bust, 28" waist, 34" long from shoulders. An extraordinary and rare survivor, important for any clothing collection. $ 4,250.

See more images of this jacket at the source: http://www.antiquedress.com/item2787.htm

 

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La Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud is in Avignon.

This museum, opened in 1995, contains the magnificent art collection of Jacques Doucet, renowned Parisian haute couture designer and belle époque dandy and dilettante. Doucet cultivated a number of young artists, among them Picasso, Braque, Max Jacob, Marcel Duchamp, and Guillaume Apollinaire, and began to collect their early works. For decades, Doucet's heirs kept the treasure trove a relative secret and lived in quiet splendor amid canvases by Cézanne, Sisley, Derain, Degas, and Modigliani. Today you can wander through Doucet's former abode, which is also filled with rare antiques and art objects that include 16th-century Buddhas and Louis XVI chairs designed by Jacob. Doucet died in 1929 at the age of 76, his own fortune so diminished that his nephew paid for his funeral. But his rich legacy lives on here.

travel.nytimes.com

 

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I hope other people will post Doucet works. I think the Doucet House is one of the most important in the history of couture.

 

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1913 - 1914 Dress made from fine black silk taffeta figured with small round sprig in green, white and turquoise. Bodice and skirt made seperately and tacked together. Fitting linings of white silk. Wide neck dipping to low V at CF, bodice with elbow sleeves. Swathed sash rising to base of neck at front. Border of green velvet round neck, crossing at front and continuing as border round top of neck. Bodice lining fastened at CF with hooks and eyes, sash fastening at CB under black glass ornament, similar ornament at CF neck. Skirt narrows towards ankles. Pouched drapery at side front cut and shaped to form short flared overskirt at side back over hips. Short elastic from CB hem of lining fastening to back of knee level pleats on CF skirt. Black net frilling round neck.

manchestergalleries.org

 

[DosViolines]

I hope other people will post Doucet works. I think the Doucet House is one of the most important in the history of couture.

This is the first time I've ever heard of him

I'll see if I can find something...

 

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thefrock.com

 

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Black silk velvet and white silk satin with black silk velvet ribbon. Doucet was one of the best known couturiers of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. His design house was popular with American and European socialites who shopped in Paris and returned home with couture wardrobes. Maison Doucet's fame rivaled that of the House of Worth, founded by Charles Frederick Worth, considered the "father of modern couture".

This gown is a two-piece design. Its complex construction of pieced fabric components creates the appearance of stripes within the bodice as well as in the skirt. The bodice alone, without counting the inner facing and lining elements, is constructed of forty-eight separate pattern pieces.

mintmuseum.org

 

[DosViolines]

Doucet
1925

Black satin dinner dress overlayed with a fine black lace giving a tunic effect. The lace is short in the back and longer in the front. The front of the dress is accentuated with rhinestone and black clips and drapes of satin.

dlxs.lib.wayne.edu

 

[DosViolines]

Doucet, Paris Evening Gown, c. 1911

whitakerauction

 

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^ *Swoons*

beverlybirks.com

 

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A rare Doucet déshabillé, circa 1905-10, narrow yellow and ivory woven label `Doucet, Paris', of pale lavender chiffon edged with needlerun lace, ruched ribbons and large satin rosettes, trained hem.

kerrytaylorauctions.com

 

[ikeya.seki]

Jacques Doucet (French, 1871–1929)
Evening Gown, 1908c
Evening gown of black silk velvet embroidered with jet beads in a motif of roses, custom designed to the shape of the dress. The dress consists of a slightly blouson bodice with a slightly raised waistline suggestive of an empire revival style and a low decolltage and a long narrow skirt which extends into a train at the back. The pattern of the surface decoration was custom designed to the shape of the dress and accentuates its feeling of elongation. The short sleeves are made of silk tulle.

beverleybirks.com

 

[ikeya.seki]

Jacques Doucet (French, 1871–1929)
Day dress, 1903

Day dress of silk panne velvet with trimming of antiqued silver metallic lace. Stylistically, dresses from this period were much the same with their high necks, corseted bodices, tiny waists, and long skirts with the fullness gathered into the back and extending into trains. Sleeve shape provided one ot the few points of variation in construction. In this case, the three-quarter length sleeve is wide and puffed enhancing the hourglass silhouette and yet not so exaggerated as to distort the proportions of the original wearer who was small. Doucet's choice of fabric, silk panne velvet, is fluid, drapes well and would have moved alluringly on the wearer. This is in contrast to the proclivity of his chief rival, the House of Worth which often created dresses with stiff forms.

beverleybirks.com

 

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Doucet Gown

Scanned by me from 'Les Modes', Feb 1902

 

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The House of Mirth

Gus Trenor:
"Is your last box of Doucet dresses a failure, or did Judy rook you out of
everything at bridge last night?"

Lily Bart:
"I have had to give up Doucet; and
bridge too--I can't afford it."

From "The House of Mirth"
by Edith Wharton, 1905


www.amazon.com

 

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1914 Doucet Illustration

Afternoon Dress illustration from
Gazette du Bon Ton, Jan, 1914


www.ebay.com

 

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Scanned by me from 'Les Modes', Sept 1902