Aquilano and Rimondi Out at Gianfranco Ferré

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MILAN — Gianfranco Ferré’s new owner, Paris Group, has pushed out the brand’s creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, WWD has learned.

A well-placed source said “sales didn’t go well at all and the designers have already left.”

Paris Group owner Abdulkader Sankari and his son Ahmed attended their first Ferré show as the new owners of the brand in February and, while tight-lipped about the future of the company, it was obvious the designing duo was treading on uncertain terrain. Ahmed Sankari, who took on the role of chairman of the company, and his father spoke highly of chief executive officer Michela Piva, who appears to be confirmed in her role, but were less warm about Aquilano and Rimondi. “We will see,” was all they had to say when asked if the duo would stay on at the house.

A retailer who asked to remain anonymous also blamed poor sales as the main reason for their departure. “We bought a minimal amount of the collection for the sake of carrying the brand, but there simply were not enough samples,” said the retailer. “There was almost no daywear and evening wear was fairy-tale-like, something for the Oscars. It may work for a small, niche brand, but not for such a global brand.”

For complete coverage, see Wednesday’s WWD.
wwd / april 19, 2011
 
What??? I've really loved this duo at Ferre, and if their latest collection wasn't too suitable for everyday wear, at least previous collections should have been. I'll really miss them and I hope them the best for the future. :(

It's so surprising, but no one has stability in the fashion industry these days,

Anything on their replacements?
 
"It's so surprising, but no one has stability in the fashion industry these days,"

It is not that surprising: it is becoming more and more about brand, sales, owners. Designers just need to come up with the goods or get out. Sad. I don't think people should have to create on the brink of fear or in full fledged paranoia; it is why they eventually burn out. Of course I don't want to see the opposite - a bunch of complacents. But why not something in between? There are lean years in any business - and for many different reasons. Ride them out maybe. But it has become a fad to keep the "house" and fire the designer, to get new "blood" - interesting metaphor. Forget the human being pumping the blood, it's all about the buck. Sigh. I guess I am an idealist.
 
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This is a shame, they'd been putting out some good collections, but not surprising.
 
^I meant that I was surprised it would be these two. Of course it makes sense considering the reason, but I never saw this one coming.
 
Seriously? Wtf? :blink: Ferre shows were among my faves from Milan FW since they took over, both mens and womens wear... The chefs at IT Holding better have someone really awesome as replacement, I hear IT is doing pretty bad financially, maybe is why the duo got sacked - too exxy vs sales. Mewonders if they might go for the 'design team' route for GF due to the financial stuff. :unsure:
 
Oh my God, the musical chairs keep going on and on! I can't beluieve this! Aquilano and Rimondi were doing such a great job...
 
Well, they had a fantastic start but the collections became so inconsistent. Not surprised about the gossip about poor sales. On top of that, they never managed to create the traction for the brand that in this day and age is absolutely required to succeed.
 
Ah, that's too bad. I absolutely adore their FW11 collection. It was one of my favorite from last season. So incredibly chic.
 
while the last two collections remain blockbuster from a runway perspective, the two have continuously put out stronger work for their eponymous line than they did for the house of ferre. in fact, i do believe their namesake label remains more buzzworthy than ferre under their tutelage.
 
^Yeah, I'm not at all surprised by this. It was only a matter of time.
 
Oh dear, they're out as well? Now that's a year of changes indeed.
 
Nooo! Those guys were like the only successful transition of any major house that I've seen. Better than Valentino for sure!! But that being said, you could kinda tell that sales weren't gonna be too good. But it's such a shame because they looked like they were genuinely starting to push forward, instead of just scabbing off the archives.
 
Though the last two collections have failed to impress me, their textile experimentation and architecture of their early collections, noteably fall 2009 weren't inkeeping with the Gianfranco Ferre aesthetic but were among my favourite collections ever.
I shall miss them, but as ever, look forward to new talent at a big house.
 
At this rate, all of the fashion houses will have new designers by the time SS 12 collections are presented.

No one is safe.

The fashion industry is seriously eating itself and soon it's going to vomit back up. Graphic imagery ... perhaps. But the industry seems a mess at the moment.
 
Yeah and I bet the independent houses are all getting a real kick out of this instability.
 
^well, isn't this how it was ten years ago? the dust eventually settles and we get an age of brilliance. also, the couturiers all played musical fashion houses back in the day to a certain extent so there's precedent.
 

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