"Avant-Première" by Maison Martin Margiela

[BIRTHOFACULT]

AVANT PREMIÈRE PAR MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Comme pour anéantir les rumeurs qui couraient pendant la dernière fashion week de Paris – selon lesquelles Maison Martin Margiela arrêtait la mode -, la marque lance sa première pré collection. Baptisée Avant Première, cette garde-robe de 60 looks féminins et 60 looks masculins sera « une introduction des lignes 1 et 4 pour femme et 10 et 14 pour homme présentées lors des prochains défilés hiver 2008-09 ». Les silhouettes se complèteront d’accessoires, sacs et chaussures. Avant Première sera révélée le mois prochain à la presse et aux acheteurs puis disponible en boutique dès le mois de mai. Maison Martin Margiela célèbre cette année ses 20 ans d’existence. A cette occasion, une rétrospective, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (20) The exhibition , se tiendra au ModeMuseum d’Anvers. Depuis 20 ans, Martin Margiela – qui avait travaillé auparavant auprès de Jean Paul Gaultier – cultive le mystère en fuyant les médias. Silencieux et inconnu du grand public, le créateur semble vouloir développer ses activités, d’une part avec cette première pré collection mais aussi avec le lancement de son premier parfum en 2009.

vogue.com

Margiela's Next Step
30 October 2008, 11:36AM

WHILE there might be plans in the pipeline to enter the world of fragrance next year, more imminent for Maison Martin Margiela is the launch of its first pre-collection, Avant Premiere.

Consisting of around 60 styles for women and 60 for men, the collection will feature a small selection of accessories and shoes too.

"It's an introduction to what we're going to show for the rest of the season. We wanted to be able to deliver earlier a full collection with its own identity," a Margiela spokeswoman told WWD.

Known for its avant-garde take on fashion (spring/summer 2009 saw some of its models pushed along on scaffolds, taped up in body stockings and hair pulled down across their faces) the Maison Martin Margiela pre-collection is set to be unveiled to trade next month and go into stores in May.

vogue.co.uk

MMM wants to be, bigger and bigger.
After fine jewelry, fragrance, now a pre-collection.
Excited to see more.

 

[eugenius]

What's next? Resort/Cruise? Handbags & F-me pumps?

Actually, i doubt he wants to be bigger. I think it's his financial backers that want him to go in that direction..but what do I know?

 

[BIRTHOFACULT]

Yes, I didn't want to say him. It's sure that all the financial's actors, have an action on this.
But it's growing more & more.
I heard, they are one of the best-seller, for "luxury" clothes (in France).
In contradiction of Balenciaga, who sells just handbags...

We have to wait & see, for now.

 

[Scott]

well i believe that's a big reason there is that rumour circling about he actually retiring. i dunno. but the scent thing-he's had that in works for ages now. some years ago he was going to release one..in fact not so long after being acquired by renzo and staff intl. was supposed to smell like patchouli.

 

[margielamike2004]

I've TOTALLY given-up on MMM. As of late, his collections no longer leave me wanting to see more....and his men's collections have been nothing less than a total disapointment.

I'll keep all the pieces I was buying in the late 80's...up to around 2004....and look upon them with fond memories of the Martin Margiela I once used to love.

As far as Margiela having the desire to distribute a perfume/scent....I think it's more of a concocted idea manufactured by the idiots who are now in control of the MMM.

Margiela once used the scent of patchouli in one of his much previous collections...I'm guessing it may have been around 1994/95. It was a bottle of patchouli perfume....with a generic label...and the bottle of perfume could be worn as an accessory/necklace.

If the idea of licensing a perfume was in-the-making....BEFORE....the Corporate Diesel buyout...it "might" have been something that leaked past my network of information??

 

[BIRTHOFACULT]

Everyone talks about the fragrance... But this topic was here to talk about the (future) pre-collection... But OK...

 

[Scott]

well,i don't believe with this it's even about MMM wanting to become bigger and bigger but that renzo wants it to be as such. i feel my suspicions of him have returned. i did think he was doing very well with martin(surprisingly)and allowing he and his team to continue with the freedom they enjoyed on their own,but now it feels as if they want to turn MMM into prada....

this may be good but we shall see. everybody seems to be tapping into this 'pre' market these last couple seasons,and whilst it may be great for sales,i don't trust that margiela had much of an impact on the culmination of this. just another conglomerate ploy,imo.

 

[soul_brutus]

I don't understand why people grumble about the MMM's business way, specially the ones who are or were fans in a time. Everybody should remember that before he presented the first collection he spent a whole year, with his partner, planning the way they wanted the brand to be. It means, after twelve months they decided to show a fashion project based in twenty four numbers from 0 to 23.
It also means, that there's still many numbers to come and new collections to be launched. Isn't this amazing? I feel so happy to see new line numbers and it was ALL conceptually considered 20 YEARS AGO! there's no reason to object.

 

[schnuu]

martin margiela is definitly retiring. the buyers were already informed. raf simons is probably taking over the designs. we will see ...

 

[mix_NS]

... and it was ALL conceptually considered 20 YEARS AGO!

What ?!?!?!

 

[Scott]

honestly,its nothing to do with margiela nor his team but staff intl and renzo rossi's intentions. yes,its MMM on the surface but i think some of us suspect something more beneath it all. i mean that slick new jewellery line he's doing....i just don't get that at all? it looks so beyond mmm as we've known it.

 

[soul_brutus]

Where did you hear he is retiring? I do not like Raf Simons at all. More or less commercial, more or less radical Margiela is irreplaceable.

 

[Scott]

^but you see MMM has taken on very commercial endeavours as well...that's why some of us find it very peculiar. its one thing for he to do a line of quirky basics(as such with 6)but a very slick commercial-looking jewellery collection. not to mention the scent. and unless its some kind of concept-scent like a CdG or Boudicca Wode....it will be commercial too.

the rumour was happening round paris during P-A-P week.....what's more,it was also a huge anniversary extravaganza(never such an event for his 10 yr. anniv.)and it's leading people to speculate even more. and perhaps he will...i mean he could be bored with it all...the business aspects. and by virtue of his aesthetics,i could foresee he wanting to do art.

as for this notion about raf taking over...honestly,it would be nice,but i can't imagine if it were to happen(MM retiring)soon,raf would take it as he's already contracted at jil sander whilst designing his own label as well as taking care of the RAF line.

 

[MynameisGreg]

I like MMM more underground and limited, it seems like a greedy move on part of the investors pushing for more retail, and personally, I think that fragrances can cheapen a brand if they aren't done right, I was a little disappointing to hear balenciaga is doing one, but we will have to see how this goes for MMM

 

[BIRTHOFACULT]

martin margiela is definitly retiring. the buyers were already informed. raf simons is probably taking over the designs. we will see ...

Source of this info ?...

 

[schnuu]

Source of this info ?...

a friend of mine who owns a shop and is selling MMM ... it was told
to him in the showroom during the last fashion week ...

 

[GuerrillaBoy]

good businessssss and money makes MMM go around... but that's nice from a point of you!

 

[JuiceMajor]

i'll stop buying MMM once it becomes too mainstream....call me a snob!

 

[mikka000]

i must admit i have only gotten to know margiela's work in the last few years. could somene please post pictures of his collections pre-2004? i have seen the occasional image but found them mostly hard to find.