Christian Dior F/W 1998.99 Paris

Definitely not my favorite from John. The Matrix collection was so necessary at this point.
 
always loved this collection. loveeeeeee. it's gaudy and ott and i love it. and the soundtrack for this show SLAPS
 
I have always loved this collection. I have always loved how he has managed to elevate the sportswear into a very formal look. The colors were kind of agressive but I think there’s something in the allure that is timeless.
In a weird way, when I started to buy vintage Dior by Galliano online years ago, finding things from the 90’d wasn’t easy. But I’ve always came across items from this collection.
 
Can not stand the mirrored hats and the ones on Eva and Linda. So clunky looking and cheap. You can certainly see some inklings of what is to be the Matrix collection in this show though, from the colours to the slightly militaristic sportiness and utilitarianism. Also an an attempt to move away from his Givenchy/early Dior era bias-esque silhouettes without going too hard too quickly.

I forget, but was this after the Diorient Express couture show or after the Marchesa Casati one? Pretty sure the Russian Constructivist Spring 1999 was after Diorient Express but this time frame always gets muddled in my head with Galliano at Dior and his namesake because a lot of the collections from both start to blend and adapt a lot from each other just a little too much.
 
Can not stand the mirrored hats and the ones on Eva and Linda. So clunky looking and cheap. You can certainly see some inklings of what is to be the Matrix collection in this show though, from the colours to the slightly militaristic sportiness and utilitarianism. Also an an attempt to move away from his Givenchy/early Dior era bias-esque silhouettes without going too hard too quickly.

I forget, but was this after the Diorient Express couture show or after the Marchesa Casati one? Pretty sure the Russian Constructivist Spring 1999 was after Diorient Express but this time frame always gets muddled in my head with Galliano at Dior and his namesake because a lot of the collections from both start to blend and adapt a lot from each other just a little too much.
this was after the marchesa casati collection (hc spring 98). you can tell because there are some silhouettes (the poiret-style cocoon coats, the edwardian tulle hats) lifted directly from it.
 
^ I thought so, and a lot of the fabrics look similar to HC Spring 98 along with those draped shawl collars too. Linda's jacket just always makes me second guess my intuition.
 
also yes, the ready-to-wear russian constructivist/communist collection was after the diorient express because the latter got savaged by critics lmao. it was in many ways the proto-matrix collection. then the two surrealist collections (hc spring 1999 and rtw fall 1999) which were basically just glorified palette cleansers, and then boom - matrix
 
hope he makes an updated version of this. less volume more tailoring.
 

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