F/W 2022.23 & Cruise 2023 Open Discussion Thread

[vogue28]

News coming out today via WWD that Giorgio Armani has postponed his upcoming Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani men's fashion shows for Fall 2022, as well as his Armani Privé Spring 2022 show in January:

 

[Marc10]

Hopefully this is the kickstarter to all around cancellations. Going ahead with in person shows this month is incredibly irresponsible.

 

[Lola701]

Hopefully this is the kickstarter to all around cancellations. Going ahead with in person shows this month is incredibly irresponsible.

Unfortunately, I don’t think it will be the case. Shows definitely generates more engagement than virtual presentations.

Armani is someone whose business is not necessarily stimulated by seasonal presentations. His voice will be missed in Couture but I don’t think shows change something for the brand and the customers.

Everybody who can will show. I wish people comeback to more decent audiences tho.

 

[MyNameIs]

"Worsening epidemiological situation" while most of the country's population is vaxxxed? This must be a mistake?

 

[Frederic01]

Information about Louis Vuitton Menswear:

Louis Vuitton to show during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris

17 DECEMBER 2021

Louis Vuitton is to show the last collection of Virgil Abloh during men’s week in Paris, Vogue Business has learned.

Vogue Business

 

[Frederic01]

In Paris, men’s fashion week (January 18-23) and couture week (January 24-27) are still scheduled to go ahead, with Milan events planned to continue as well. Fashion houses have begun making their own calls as to whether they want to participate. On Tuesday, Giorgio Armani announced the cancelation of the Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani men’s shows in Milan and the Privé couture show in Paris “in light of the worsening epidemiological situation.”

However, many of the larger brands confirmed to Vogue Business they are sticking to their physical show plans including Hermès, Dior, Loewe, Ami, and Kenzo, which will mark the first show from artistic director Nigo. Newcomers betting on physical shows include Bianca Saunders, Egonlab, and Rains. Paco Rabanne and Alaïa plan to stage women’s wear shows on 23 January. Also on the men’s calendar is the Louis Vuitton show, featuring the last collection designed by Virgil Abloh before his passing, although details on the format were not immediately available. The final calendar indicating formats is expected in the coming days.

Vogue Business

 

[LadyJunon]

I feel that most designers are going to continue in the formats they did for June and September/October, with more returning to the physical runway format. The whole industry is vaccinated and the vaccine is regularly updated. The reason why Armani cancelled their shows is probably due to the fact that the man is almost 90.

Live runway shows with audiences generate more social media coverage than digital presentations and lookbooks. They may be more expensive, but it's a no-brainer, straightforward way to present one's work (Unless you're Givenchy, circa 2016). This is especially important, if the body of work presented is large.

The reception of digital presentations depending mostly on the type of presentation and the type to designer/collection. Most digital presentations tend to be in one of four formats: runway, lookbook, performance and story.

The "runway" and "lookbook" are extremely similar in setup and production. The "runway" format mimics a live runway show (models walking back to back in a large space), while the "lookbook" format incorporate more still poses and models glaring murderously into the camera. These formats seemed to be the best received, probably due to their familiarity and straightforwardness. Most of the brands that used these two formats for the SS'21 and FW'21 seasons went back to live shows for SS'22.

The "performance" format is self explanatory. Instead of walking and posing, it's dancing, most often contemporary dancing. These were well received, but most of the attention went to the dancers rather than the clothes. Designers who used this format were often met with the statement: "I can't see the clothes properly."

The "story" format appears in different ways, according to the brand. A common theme is often the claim to desire to add "depth" to the clothes and similar statements. While popular among the arty crowd, it was downright rejected by the fashion crowd, due to the overcomplicated manner to present a collection that would bmost likely never touch store floors.

In the end, a traditional runway show is no doubt the best way to show a collection, but it can feel unjustified if one doesn't have the resources or a spot on the schedule. The use of pre-filmed presentations allows for the playing field to even out. From there, it's just a matter of how one is to communicate their clothes.

I apologize for the essay on digital shows, I never realised I had so much garbage to say...

 

[maimon]

this is not exactly about the coming fashion week season but Fernanda made a vlog about milan fashion week from last pandemic season, and I was a bit underwhelmed by the organization of the shows she did, which were no unknown brands!
Like if you want to do a in person show during a pandemic, at least make sure the models dont catch a cold while waiting backstage with wet hair and barely anything on no matter if it is the mood or for FASHION...
i know its nothing new and it used to be much worse back in the days for models but i feel like fashion show environments should especially in these times be a saver place for everyone involved despite the hussle and stress that a show comes with.

 

[vogue28]

Tom Ford has been forced to cancel his show at New York Fashion Week for the upcoming season, due to production issues caused by Covid-19:

 

[vogue28]

I've just added the latest New York, London & Milan schedules to the top of D&C - and will add Paris once it's released by FHCM.

 

[vogue28]

^Paris Fashion Week schedule is now stuck to the top of D&C!

 

[vogue28]

A preview of Fendi:



Prada's latest Instagram posts are celebrating models Rianne van Rompaey, Victoria Fawole and Mica Arganaraz ahead of their Fall 2022 presentation tomorrow:

 

[billiejbob]

So we just going to ignore the big european brands that don't care about ukrainians?

 

[LostInNJ]

So we just going to ignore the big european brands that don't care about ukrainians?

As they say, the show must go on. What is happening is absolutely awful, and I feel that a lot of brands/designers are acknowledging what is happening. As well as models and editors. The reality is, however, that everything cannot/will not come to a stand still while this is happening, as awful as the events are.

Post 9/11, designers still presented their collections...in NYC, no less. Not exactly the same situation, but a situation of great magnitude for sure.

An honest question tho, what would you prefer/do you expect the brands to do right now?

 

[Lola701]

So we just going to ignore the big european brands that don't care about ukrainians?

Diplomacy is involved at this point. French brands (conglomerate) cannot really speak now.
People personally are touched and appalled but public statements engaging companies without the approval of the culture and economy ministry could actually do more damage.

And BLM happened. A lot of brands didn’t received the response they expected from their statements so it’s maybe better for them to not speak.

 

[Lola701]

^^
They have decided to donate for the Refugees nevertheless.

 

[perhydrol]

Celine has just uploaded... something on youtube, I guess it's their men's F/W 2022 show.

 

[vogue28]

Christian Dior’s Pre-Fall 2022 show set to take place in South Korea:

 

[LadyJunon]

Christian Dior’s Pre-Fall 2022 show set to take place in South Korea:

But why though...

 

[vogue28]

Some dates via The Business of Fashion for some upcoming shows, including...

Pucci in Capri, Italy on April 29
Chanel in Monaco on May 5
Louis Vuitton in San Diego, USA on May 12
Gucci in Puglia, Italy on May 16,
Dior Men in Los Angeles, USA on May 19,
Balenciaga in New York, USA on May 22,
Dior in Seville, Spain on June 16,
Max Mara in Lisbon, Portugal on June 28
Valentino in Rome, Italy on July 8