Jacquemus F/W 2015.16 Paris

[elle_gb]

yeah very Margiela but I don't mind his design though.

 

[Scott]

maybe because the industry is in search for real designers instead of wannabe celebrities the world seems so obsessed with. i will say,it does feel like we're beginning to see a real shift where the talent actually justifies the talent....outside jacquemus.....there were a lot of young and new labels who showed today that are legitimately very strong in their vision and design. and it seems to be contagious in london and new york too.

 

[nothingisnothing]

to be honest, i don't sense margiela that much in this collection, nor does his previous career. maybe it's just the casts, the styling and how he treats the clothes that makes it feel like margiela.

to me, he's more likely fvcking with a certain period of european modernism paintings and art, take inspiration from them, emphatically playing with lines, colors,how they forms...etc. which is not margiela's major direction.

but wow. this collection is too much, he's been trying too hard so far. and we can imagine the final products are gonna be meh...(margiela made good quality clothes, do remember)

 

[inwhiterooms]

What is up with people hyping up these designers who seem to not know/care about flattering the female figure? First J.W. Anderson, now this guy?

I do like him, but I agree with this statement

 

[YeohRocks]

Well the clothes look like ****; show boobs.

 

[Scott]

to be honest, i don't sense margiela that much in this collection, nor does his previous career. maybe it's just the casts, the styling and how he treats the clothes that makes it feel like margiela.

to me, he's more likely fvcking with a certain period of european modernism paintings and art, take inspiration from them, emphatically playing with lines, colors,how they forms...etc. which is not margiela's major direction.

but wow. this collection is too much, he's been trying too hard so far. and we can imagine the final products are gonna be meh...(margiela made good quality clothes, do remember)

i think people saw the hands and the masks but one could also argue it could be a nod to his former teacher rei kawakubo. remember she is and has been well known for a lot of these elements as well. some forget that's where he honed his skill and probably explains his love of the abstract and geometry and his absurd sense of volume.

btw,just to elaborate on the hype....i do think we're all at a place where we might be a little fed up with the redundancy of the old guard,heritage house obsessions and irrelevant has-beens.....we have had to endure 10 years of nothingness and blandness coming from young designers till this point and now we're seeing designers coming out of school taking more risks...doing things differently than what we've become all-too comfortable with in these last years....i think that's why so many are jumping on the bandwagons of a jacquemus and others because at least the guy is doing something against status quo.

 

[tatouejeremie]

his former teacher rei kawakubo?
he was just a shop assistant at the cdg paris shop.


i liked his first collections but he's really showing his limitations with this collection.
he's lucky he's good looking, because he wouldnt be where he is now without those looks

 

[Scott]

his bio says he was a protege at CdG which i would assume means he was actually part of the design team.

i'm not sure what you mean by looks because till very recently i didn't even know what the guy looked like.

 

[MulletProof]

I always got the impression that the brief hype mostly came from filling up his shows and networking well with the bloggers, the interns, the streetstyle nobodies, the people that recyprocate well if you just keep them close.

I'd be a little more sensitive if he didn't sound so casual about not knowing how to cut a shirt. He's clearly not even trying unexplored paths of ignorance, just basically throwing a square-shaped striped rag and pouting next to it. He's good as an PFW opening act I guess, a canapé, and then he can go back to mingling with the ~it~ crowd for the remaining 7 days.

 

[tatouejeremie]

his bio says he was a protege at CdG which i would assume means he was actually part of the design team.

i'm not sure what you mean by looks because till very recently i didn't even know what the guy looked like.

well he wasn't

 

[Scott]

well you know more than i do apparently.

 

[ultramarine]

Yes, its too much Margiela for too little Jacquemus for my taste. And yes, he has yet to prove his value as a designer rather than pretty face who catched lightning.

 

[StoneSkipper]

btw,just to elaborate on the hype....i do think we're all at a place where we might be a little fed up with the redundancy of the old guard,heritage house obsessions and irrelevant has-beens.....we have had to endure 10 years of nothingness and blandness coming from young designers till this point and now we're seeing designers coming out of school taking more risks...doing things differently than what we've become all-too comfortable with in these last years....i think that's why so many are jumping on the bandwagons of a jacquemus and others because at least the guy is doing something against status quo.

I agree with you on this point. I think it's great that people are looking for something new and different, and I can't fault him for thinking outside the box. I do applaud his search for the new. However, I do think that you can innovate while flattering the figure of the wearer, and this just... doesn't. It doesn't seem to take into consideration the natural curves of the female body, the human proportions (though there are a few nice tries in there). This just seems to want to go against the body, and it's very unsettling for my eyes. It's something very mannequin-ish, and it doesn't look like it belongs on a real person, and that's my problem with this (and his designs in general - this also applies to J.W. Anderson, that I mentioned in my previous post). Also, the bare breasts and the overall exposure also irk me. I've said this in the past (Tom Ford, in that case), but it shows a lot of skin without flattering the figure at all, and thus, it brings up a whiff of objetification of the wearer.

Tl;dr - I think his heart is in the right place, but he's just not cutting it, and while I can see some talent in him, I don't think he has the makings of a genius, or the defining of a new generation of designers, and he's certainly not living up to the immense hype surrounding his label. That's just how I personally see things, however.

 

[Mutterlein]

well he wasn't

He never worked for CDG design but his first couple collections were sponsored by the company which he worked off in their Paris store.

 

[squilliam]

(he's gotta be the most overhyped designer out there, seriously, like wtf?)

I think that would be Fausto puglisi

 

[amak]

well you know more than i do apparently.

That would be the very clever media misrepresentation.

At no point did Jacquemus work in the Comme des Garcons design studio or atelier in any capacity.

The only connection he has to CDG is that he had worked at their Paris store as a sales assistant for 2 years or so in the evenings. But he does have a great relationship with the head of sales at CDG paris store.

What I dont understand is his sudden change of aesthetics.

 

[lelaid]

It's all just comically awful and forcefully pretentious

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

I think that would be Fausto puglisi

and before that Hakaan

 

[Scott]

btw,just for the record...the double faces which a lot of people seem to be accusing him of copying was actually collaborated on with sebastien bieniek. and ps. sebastien seems to be misrepresenting himself too claiming they're original and going round facebook and such forcing people to pull posts that tell the truth. this was actually first done by artist/illustrator saul steinberg back in the 60's.

hahaha...if there is one thing jacquemus has done with this collection he's certainly stirred up some nice publicity for himself.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

But why is everyone so scandalized? He was always strongly inspired by Margiela and CDG. He's a tribute designer, nothing else.