Jacquemus F/W 2018.19 Paris

[helmutnotdead]

I'm sorry but that's such a demeaning and silly thing to say. Yes he's handsome but what does that matter at the end of the day? No one is gonna buy clothes or give a collection good reviews because the designer is attractive, that's ridiculous. I was one of his biggest critics here in the beginning of his career, thought his stuff was pretentious and unremarkable. Then S/S 17 came with a complete breakthrough, one of my favorite collections in years. And the following two followed through, now he feels like a mature designer with an incredibly strong vision and focus of what his brand is and who his woman is. A real breath of fresh air in Paris. His success story is entirely credited to his work and evolution.

I'm sorry but I think that you didn't read my posts or at least you didn't understand them. First: is quite OBVIOUS that his aspect doesn't matter to us. What I said is another thing: All the things I've heard of him from people is some silly stuff like "he's hot" "did you look at his insta stories?" "he's sooo cuteee" etc. The guy is an insta star. Look at all the expectation he created with the "new job" post. I don't mind what do you think about him. I'm speaking based on what I heard from a lot of people. Nobody ever told me something (good or bad) about his work. Maybe I didn't explain myself very well about the press and I get that. But for me is UNDENIABLE that media is crazy about him because he got charisma. His work is not remarkable at all compared to other young people (Craig Green comes to my mind). In my first post on this thread I've said something that we all know: he grew up, his last collection was great and I was expecting something more directional from the brand this season. But saying that he's a great designer and he evolved a lot just FOR ONE GOOD COLLECTION, is beyond ridiculous.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

This is very good.

Surprised with all the hate here. I think you are forgetting that this is not a house like Dior with all the codes and history behind, he is building a brand from scratch. He have a vision, but util he gets there he have to tell us, step by step, what he want to do. If you want a session in your store with "the classics" pieces, you have to tell us what we will always find in your store. Its simple, yes, in terms of design he doesn't push anything, but the cut is great, the silhouette is bold, its playful and some pieces are very have a very fashion approach, but above all, its about a woman, a specific woman, I can se her clearly in my mind and its a beautiful vision.

Im excited about it I understand what he is doing and it gives life, thats why I fell in love with fashion: clothes that inspire me be more, clothes that you not just wearing, you are participating actively in a vision. I cant wait for his menswear, its the perfect time and if the prices still like womenswear im really thinking in start to buy at least one piece by season.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

And yes he is beautiful, but so what? A lot of mens in industry are. TF, Marc, JWA, NG... Is not their pretty faces that is holding their chairs, for sure.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I completely agree with all the criticism leveld here - it's not groundbreaking, he could benefit from pushing the envelope a little more (though, please, let's not go back to his "grade-school" collections... that stuff was vile and I'm so immensely glad he's matured as a designer), however...

Its beautiful in a season of tackiness and ridiculous shoulder pads , Im living for this

I absolutely agree with this. This is just immensely beautiful and so easy in a season of try-hardness everywhere. I love the construction of these pieces, for once - everything looks as if nudged by a gentle breeze. It's so fresh, and wearable, and romantic. Céline was very likely the wrong place for him, but I can't help but wonder what he could do at Donna Karan...

 

[jeanclaude]

I completely agree with all the criticism leveld here - it's not groundbreaking, he could benefit from pushing the envelope a little more (though, please, let's not go back to his "grade-school" collections... that stuff was vile and I'm so immensely glad he's matured as a designer), however...

Really, I can´t see any "maturity" in a designer who copies from another brand. Even if he does it well...it´s just a copy!

For me, maturity as a designer means developing a language, an identifiable stylish code, a unique vision.
But you could remove "Jacquemus" name from this thread; and this collection could be from any other brand (copying from Céline, that´s it)...for god´s sake, there´s even a Jacquemus version of the "trio" bag!!

Getting mature doesn´t mean copying from another designer (Céline again...did I mentioned it??). Because then Victoria Beckham would be the Balenciaga of this age!

 

[charmedp321]

Everybody is talking about it, so he succeed. Jacquemus is going to blow up now that they have menswear.

 

[Lola701]

I know he was a sales assistant at CDG shop; but if you see his early collections you can tell CDG influences are there. No matter the fact he wasn´t a designer from Rei´s staff.

Anyway, I compare his firsts collections to the last two ones...and it seems like two different designers. I found more interesting his early work, there were some interesting pieces and concepts.

But I know this is a business. He needs money to stay afloat, that´s a big reason for a commercial collection like this one.

Ah! Ok, i get what you tried to say...
However I think that looking at his work now compared to his earlier stuff is really interesting.

His earlier work was really about the idea of «*La femme enfant*» and was really naive. He said in a tv program that he drew like a child and that’s how his clothes looked sometimes.

Now his femme-enfant has turned into a grown woman. He has still maintain something naive in the construction and in the nonchalante attitude. There’s something slightly sophisticated about it.

About the references thing: everybody references something or someone. Only the real talented ones managed to make it their own. I’ m sorry but his way of referencing Phoebe is more subtle than what Proenza Schouler, Beckham or even The Row are doing.

I just love the fact that his fashion is not about irony, fake intellectualism, fake underground. It’s refreshing.

I wouldn’t be mad to see him do something for a luxury brand, even a short stint, just to improve his skills and techniques. He is very clever and he take the opportunity, the possibilities will be endless.

The only thing really annoying about him is his fake nonchalance. He sometimes act like he doesn’t care about all of this when he fact he has dreamed about it for a long time. There’ s a fine line between being humble, being a fake humble and being cocky.

And about his menswear, even if he did too much, he showed how much he understand his era. Nobody cares about a young designer doing menswear but he took the opportunity of Phoebe leaving Celine and used it to his advantage in order to make people interested about it.

I’*m sorry but I can’t help myself. I’ m real’y Admirative of him.

 

[Nomar]

It looks like a continuation of his previous collection. It's nice and simple but I'm definitely prefer his tailoring work over this. The most exciting thing was probably his announcement at the end.

 

[StoneSkipper]

Really, I can´t see any "maturity" in a designer who copies from another brand. Even if he does it well...it´s just a copy!

For me, maturity as a designer means developing a language, an identifiable stylish code, a unique vision.
But you could remove "Jacquemus" name from this thread; and this collection could be from any other brand (copying from Céline, that´s it)...for god´s sake, there´s even a Jacquemus version of the "trio" bag!!

Getting mature doesn´t mean copying from another designer (Céline again...did I mentioned it??). Because then Victoria Beckham would be the Balenciaga of this age!

I gues I misused the word... I'm aware that "maturity" is a subjective matter in this case, I meant to say evolved, as in "he was doing that, now he's doing this". I certainly can agree with you regarding his identity - yes, he still needs to find a certain sense of unmistakability, something that you can lay your eye on and say it's Jacquemus. But I don't know, he at least seems to be trying to establish an aesthetic, as opposed to someone like Victoria Beckham, who seems to be content in doing Céline over and over again. And the reference to Céline don't seem to be so heavy-handed here - in fact, I see more shades of French designers like Christophe Josse and Rabih Kayrouz in this particular collection. Again, just my opinion, but I totally see where you're coming from.

 

[jeanclaude]

I’ m sorry but his way of referencing Phoebe is more subtle than what Proenza Schouler, Beckham or even The Row are doing.

I can understand you like him (I like his previous naïf style)...but subtlety referencing Céline? I´m not the only one in this thread who noticed the resemblance. He even made a version of the "trio" bag!! (he just added a flap over the compartments to hide it a little bit).

 

[jeanclaude]

I gues I misused the word... I'm aware that "maturity" is a subjective matter in this case, I meant to say evolved, as in "he was doing that, now he's doing this". I certainly can agree with you regarding his identity - yes, he still needs to find a certain sense of unmistakability, something that you can lay your eye on and say it's Jacquemus. But I don't know, he at least seems to be trying to establish an aesthetic, as opposed to someone like Victoria Beckham, who seems to be content in doing Céline over and over again. And the reference to Céline don't seem to be so heavy-handed here - in fact, I see more shades of French designers like Christophe Josse and Rabih Kayrouz in this particular collection. Again, just my opinion, but I totally see where you're coming from.

Ironically, I see more of "Jacquemus" in his first collections, than here. It felt more authentic to me (even when there were some references to CDG and Margiela)...but it felt free and fresh. It was him trying to develop his own style, on a naïf way.
But this collection feels more business (and I know he needs money after all; but I think you can get a balance between creativity and commercialism).

 

[khyrk]

Last season was amazing and this is a very good follow up.

 

[amak]

Because he's hot as hell. Plain and simple: my friends don't know anything about his work or background but they love him because he's stunning. And people and press love a very handsome young man trying to do something "different" (yes, we all know that he is such a copycat).

Very very true. I still remember walking into the Comme des Garcons store in Paris and just stopping in my tracks seeing him working as a salesman years ago!

 

[Fashionstuff]

So bad it is not.
I can imagine the women who wears his clothes.
He succeed and i'm happy about him!

 

[TaylorBinque]

He's hot. There's no doubt about it.

I was quite harsh on him at the beginning. Especially some people who in his clique that are very insufferable. But he has grown a lot. I think to be successful nowadays, you need to be able to own an identity and truly evolve commercially and critically. That's why I really enjoy his last few collections. They might be different from what he did earlier but they can see this is his style and him very much. Last season was a breakthrough and this collection is very good. I love the longer hemlines.

 

[dodencebt]

Surprised with all the hate here. I think you are forgetting that this is not a house like Dior with all the codes and history behind, he is building a brand from scratch. He have a vision, but util he gets there he have to tell us, step by step, what he want to do. If you want a session in your store with "the classics" pieces, you have to tell us what we will always find in your store. Its simple, yes, in terms of design he doesn't push anything, but the cut is great, the silhouette is bold, its playful and some pieces are very have a very fashion approach, but above all, its about a woman, a specific woman, I can se her clearly in my mind and its a beautiful vision.

Im excited about it I understand what he is doing and it gives life, thats why I fell in love with fashion: clothes that inspire me be more, clothes that you not just wearing, you are participating actively in a vision. I cant wait for his menswear, its the perfect time and if the prices still like womenswear im really thinking in start to buy at least one piece by season.

I wholeheartedly agree with this. It doesn't even matter to me that some of it is "borrowed" from more influential designers or that the show was at times repetitive or that his vocabulary is not yet fully formed. If he plays his cards right, he will grow over time.

I think he is one of the most promising young designers that have stepped into the limelight over these last ten years with the potential of building a long-lasting brand which will be a world of its own. Many new talents haven't been able to achieve a fraction of the brand identity that Jacquemus already has. They only design great clothes without the matching lifestyle and disappear after the fashion hype fades and a broader profile of customers have to buy their products.

 

[Benn98]

Hold up, the ones saying he's hot??? TaylorBinque, explain yourself! I don't see it! Pretty average, imo. And the teeth....

Add me to the 'not impressed' group. It seems he's getting more commercial with each collection, or perhaps using these shows to campaign for open positions? Either way it can lead to ruin for a label this young. People will associate him with mediocrity and safeness. It's fine if you want the majority of consumers to actually wear your clothes, but when you're this new at least incorporate more elements to set it apart from a Michael Kors collection.

Also, didn't know he worked in the retail department of CDG. *s******* Thanks for clearing that up, Lola!

 

[Les_Sucettes]

Because he's hot as hell. Plain and simple: my friends don't know anything about his work or background but they love him because he's stunning. And people and press love a very handsome young man trying to do something "different" (yes, we all know that he is such a copycat).

That’s quite subjective, he’s a good looking man, but certainly not good looking enough to base a career on his “handsomeness”. To be honest till you mentioned i did not even noticed...

He’s certainly not inventing the wheel here, but it works for me.

 

[Lola701]

I can understand you like him (I like his previous naïf style)...but subtlety referencing Céline? I´m not the only one in this thread who noticed the resemblance. He even made a version of the "trio" bag!! (he just added a flap over the compartments to hide it a little bit).

You know that me liking a designer doesn’t change my judgement on his work. I’ve been a critic to Slimane or Galliano while still loving them.

Ok apart from the Trio bag, i’m Sorry i don’t see Celine. There’s maybe something in the spirit, the color palette or the attitude but in terms of literal copies, I don’t see it.

And we are not going to act like Phoebe herself as a designer wasn’t a regular in making literal copies of her inspirations on the runway. But that didn’t meant that she wasn’t talented. What is important is to own something and make it your own.

Whatever might be Celine in this collection felt totally Jacquemus. And i’m Sorry i don’t see that in a lot of designers today because only a few of them have a real identity. If I can tell that «*this is Jacquemus*» with the most boring item possible, then that means that he is doing a good job.

He is building his aesthetic. Change is a part of progress and maybe that one day he will be able to totally mix his earlier stuff to his new aesthetic.

I don’t want to «*defend*» this because it’s not the most extraordinary thing ever but it touches me and fashion is about emotion above all for me.

Ps: i’m also ready for the menswear

 

[Wintergreen]

Why is he so popular? Everything looks like Zara. There is no creativity, interesting tailoring, vision. Its like young designer from New York trying to be Phoebe Philo.

Because it's beautiful!!!1!!!!!1!

There's so much eye-sore going on in the fashion industry right now. I still haven't recovered from the last Gucci show.