Marios Schwab F/W 08.09 London

[DuTTyRoCK112]

Pure editorial frou-frou. I find it hard to believe that any woman would buy any of this. I really think the the two feather/fur jackets are exceptional, though.

 

[ilaughead]

A lot of this looks very similar to Chanel HC F/W 07...but it's not a good imitation in the slightest.

 

[educo]

I have looked at this and i think it's absolutely disgusting and shameful especially coming from an amazing season such as the last one.

 

[gius]

some looks definitely crazy
but i do like quite a bit so much gorgeous textures...
so in the end i think it balances out
i also love the length very much

how interesting that he was inspired by the Yellow Wallpaper i really liked that story myself
it was the first story of insanity i've ever read, written by a woman from 19th century (?)-- i didn't think they'd write stories like that then
and you can totally see the shredding wallpaper in the clothes this is very close to the yellow described imo .. more orange and sickly than yellow wallpaper

such an interesting idea and
source for idea
and i do like a few of the rippled reliefs coming out of the fitted dresses

this is one big bag of crazy and depression.

bleh

yes the story that inspired the collection IS actually about CRAZYness and depression! so, very right indeed eeyore!

 

[gius]

Details:

elle

 

[vanwood]

LONDON, February 12, 2008 – London is thinking long—sinuously, serpentinely long in the case of Marios Schwab's incredibly impactful Fall silhouette. Schwab is the first to completely nail the new look in a bravely exaggerated form: smooth, tubular, hobbling stretch dresses to the ankle, with strange textures breaking through their surfaces. Some of them had patches of under things—jeans or poufy upswellings of flesh-colored Lycra—rising through roughly scissored slits. Others were covered with filigree-fine laser cutouts engineered to look like sooty, flaking Victorian William Morris wallpaper.

It was strange, it was sinister—and mesmerizing. Without doubt, it threw up a glaring issue about how anyone could wear it as is (if you wanted to perambulate across a room within five minutes, forget it). But by the end, the cumulative effect neutralized that kind of pragmatic niggle. This was Schwab's most conceptual collection yet; arguably one that is powerful enough to push the reset button in how we see proportions.

What led him here was a reading of a Victorian proto-feminist novel, The Yellow Wallpaper, by Charlotte Perkins Gilman, followed by a collaboration with the artist Tom Gallant on the prints. Those influences scarcely matter to the results though, which look new and "out there" in a way few designers dare in these days of commercial constraints. Not that there weren't saleable-looking, impeccably made navy peacoats (two, tramline straight, were elongated to hit the ankle). The pont is that this is one of those symbolically charged collections that may be a bellwether. Longer is beginning to feel better: It's a visual that's been moving inward from the margins since Roland Mouret and Jonathan Saunders also dropped their hemlines to mid-calf. If it seems crazy now, let's wait and see: The judgment call will only come after every other designer has had his say.

– Sarah Mower
source: style.com

 

[gius]

elle

 

[gius]

Details:

elle

 

[gius]

&there are a few shots I didn't upload
it was just a hairclip or a shot of the model's face and collarbone

Thanks for posting the review, vanwood
Could you post the source please?

 

[Alejandro]

the closeup pics show just how bad this is.

check this out: http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1373/02122008112534128941365if2.jpg

notice the hem of the dress......the stitching has almost ripped completely off!!!

this is all so badly made and you can tell from even far away, i noticed it in the video.

 

[gius]

lol ! you're right, alejandro i didn't see that..
but this is just a show
--maybe they were in a rush
hopefully it's better at the shop

does anyone know how much this sells for ?
there's a lot of work..
laser-cutting..
i assume it's expensive

 

[Alejandro]

oh the quality will be better for production, it has to be. but still.

 

[vanwood]

The detail shots are great, i love the hair pieces, the shoes with the square toes, brave move for marios, but it all works in creating new silhouettes and design ideas. These will all be translated into great wearable clothes but with great ideas behind them. I personally like an intelligent designer.

 

[xmodel citizen]

the closeup pics show just how bad this is.

check this out: http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1373/02122008112534128941365if2.jpg

notice the hem of the dress......the stitching has almost ripped completely off!!!

this is all so badly made and you can tell from even far away, i noticed it in the video.

That's insane, especially considering how well-made most of the clothes in London have been so far! He got all that money and he produced this crap?

 

[tricotineacetat]

the closeup pics show just how bad this is.

check this out: http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1373/02122008112534128941365if2.jpg

notice the hem of the dress......the stitching has almost ripped completely off!!!

this is all so badly made and you can tell from even far away, i noticed it in the video.

I am not surprised this was happening here... You can't stretch out a Jersey seam to the max and expect it not to rip... Especially when the models walk in these tight tubes, it's inevitable that something like this is gonna happen... but also it shows that it's a little contrived and absurd, this whole idea of the ultra long, ultra tight skirt shapes.

It seems designers are not being asked for intelligent 'solutions' rather than creating images... not necessarily for the sake that anyone can project that on oneself.

 

[Mafiosa]

^it slightly fetish isn't it. shoes and dresses you can't move in.

disaster... i'm so let down by this... spring/summer was just gorgeous..
i do find a few of the pieces OK. especially if they were cut at the knee or thigh. but all in all this is just terrible, no woman with a bit of tummy could wear jersey dresses like this... i can't imagine it working in editorials either

 

[gius]

is it really jersey ?
where is everyone getting that..

the review says LYCRA
aka spandex

 

[tricotineacetat]

is it really jersey ?
where is everyone getting that..

the review says LYCRA
aka spandex

Lycra/Spandex/Elasthane/Elité is just part of the composition, as in a lot of denim and other fabrics that demand additional stretch... This is for sure not woven fabric but jersey with stretch content.

 

[gius]

^...because a woven fabric might not conform completely to the body as well as a jersey (knit) could ??

 

[TheItGirl]

love the details, the idea, but i have to say, that it's not the best Marios' collection. By the way, some dresses in the first post are quite interesting.