New York Fashion Week... What is happening?

[whitewine82]

Maybe this will flop, but here we go...


Thom Browne, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Altuzarra are out, and yes, we can talk about a lot of things (good and bad) about this brands, but now we can talk, officially (?), that NY now is all about Marc and Rafs? The buzz of the week- that IMO is important in a way - is now gonna fade?

I really wanna read what you guys think.

Here is a articule that made me do this thread: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-rethinking-new-york-fashion-week

 

[mathiaskatz]

I think it's a bad move on those brands. Paris is already overloaded, they're going to get lost in the shuffle.

Proenza for sure should have stayed in NY; they were making a name for themselves and was one of the top shows during NYFW and I don't see that happening in Paris.

But yeah, NYFW is just MJ and CK. And maybe Sies Marjan if they continue their upward momentum.

I can see models skipping NYFW and LFW entirely tbh.

 

[Lola701]

NYFW is just overcrowded...Period. I know that there are some editors and buyers who don't even care to go there...

NYC has another problem. For a long time, people weren't that excited about going to Milan because except maybe for Prada and maybe two other brands, they dodn't have enough Fashion with a Capital F (even if for me, Milan has always been on top with Paris) but the real strengh of Milan was it commercial power.

Nobody can't deny the commercial power and the influence of italian brands. Even Versace at it lowest was still a brand that counts.

The problem with the brands showing at NYFW is their small audience i would say.
Marc Jacobs may be an important designer, he has a small voice today. IMO he should move to Paris to relaunch his brand.

Thom Browne did a good thing by moving to Paris. All the others will fail terribly...Why? Because on this side of the globe, we don't care about Rodarte, PS or Altuzarra. Those are very NYC brands and all their appeal is based around that.

Tom Ford is still an important designer but he has proved that he can survive anywhere. He will attract buyers and press. If the collection he shows in September proves a designer to push fashion forward, he can be more than what he is today.

I'm still not convinced by Raf at CK. I think his position will evolve if it has a commercial success...

NYFW is a bit like LFW IMO...The only difference is that London is close to Paris. Because, let's be honest, London is very for their people and young struggling designers. JW Anderson is their most anticipated show now. Nobody cares about Burberry and Christopher Kane. But Katranzou and some few others have managed to have an international commecial success.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I think the problem is due to the fact that american HF brands have very short lifespans compared to european brands, trendy brands five years ago are nowhere to be seen or have fallen into irrelevance. Continued hype in NY is just not something to take for granted, even MJ has lost the cult following that he once had.

In part I think this is to be blamed on their poor managment choices but it doesn't help that even the most prestigious brands are nothing but poor man's versions of european brands, they don't really have a unique distinguishable voice and are just riding along some trendy bandwagon. The brands that have been mentioned have therefore, absolutely nothing to do in Paris.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

One of the biggest problems with NYC, on top of an overcrowded schedule, is the fact that most of these designers don't have an identity for their brand. All the collections look the same so there's zero appeal there.

A couple of invitations have already come in and when I peeped at the schedule yesterday, I just had to roll my eyes. Very few shows worth attending...

We'll see what Tom Ford shows on the 6th, but I'm mainly curious about Wang and Philipp Plein who are showing back to back and they always have off site locations, so one of them is going to suffer press/editor-wise, if the locations are far from each other.

Anyway, this is going to be a very interesting season and I reckon the outcome will dictate the state of things going forward.

 

[eugenius]

Wasn't the writer of that article banned from TFS? Lol.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

Wasn't the writer of that article banned from TFS? Lol.

Eugene Rabkin?... spill the tea. What happened??

 

[eugenius]

He posted it on his forum a while back. I don't know the when & why, though.

 

[BetteT]

Wasn't the writer of that article banned from TFS? Lol.

Nope. Let's not go off on this rumor.

His name has never come up as any sort of a problem. In fact ... if he is a member, I'm not aware of it.

 

[MulletProof]

^ that was several months before you became a mod.. he was one of our biggest contributors and we did ban him for reasons that never made any real sense or were consistent with our policies elsewhere.. not me personally, I was a hardcore Faust fan and consider him part of my foundation and I think he trained me well .. but yeah.. he was an awesome member and ultimately, banning him gave him a little push to go and start great projects and the often odious atmosphere he created here ended up being our loss with all the model fanaticism. He started stylezeitgeist and then the magazine and is doing articles and all that.. I cannot stomach stylezeitgeist but will always enjoy reading his stuff even when I don't agree.

/end of tfs history class.


Haven't read this one and probably won't because.. NYFW? no. My only concern is actually Paris.. their schedule is already getting a little too trashy, so infesting it with NYFW acts sounds lethal, is that's how it's going to be now? Russians that make sweatpants and New Yorkers that make cocktail dresses?.. wake me up when it's over.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

To go back to the original article, I think Eugene made some very valid points. As someone who attends the shows, I can also say how incredibly boring and bland it has become. I get sick just knowing that another fashion week is around the corner, here in NYC, at least. The real tragedy, though, is New York Fashion Week Men's. It's nothing. No excitement, no newness, nothing.

I like how the old guard refer to new talent - designers, editors, stylist, photographers - as backseat drivers or say things like, "if you want to see change, do it yourself." The reality is that it is INCREDIBLY difficult and frustrating to just break into this industry. Then you have to deal with people with very serious attitude problems and an establishment who do not want to work with or support newer talent (especially on the editorial and photography side). As a result, we end up with the same old and lifeless fashion weeks and industry in general.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

Also, as much as I am for making the fashion industry more accessible, IMG's attempt to turn NYFW into some kind of pay-to-play social scene is disgusting and infuriating. Not because I've had to work my *** off to get to the point where I am, but because I can already see the types who will purchase tickets to shows. Especially the pricks who will do so only to prey on and party with models.

Also, if someone is paying for VIP tickets to shows, it means space is going to have to be allotted to them in the first two rows at least. It means people who have worked their way up will lose their spots and it's always the independent journalists and magazine editors who suffer.

What role does someone who have purchased tickets to shows have there anyway? The clothes aren't available for sale, so it's not like they could buy them. They're not editors, so they're not using the collection to style shoots. They're not writers, so they're not reporting on the collections. What the actual f*ck(!!!) are they doing there???

Sorry, I'm getting really passionate about this.

 

[MulletProof]

I think we descended into this phase (hopefully) where academic training has very little importance.. it will get old, because that's the way things go.. but I've seen the same "want a change? CHANGE YOURSELF! do it yourself! it's all in your mind! get a self-help book!" even from people that claim to be tired of the current dynamics too.

This comes exclusively from a place where the standards have fallen so low in terms of education, rigorous training, plus the glorification of ignorance and oblivion to the need of disciplined critical thinking (which is more often than not, achieved only through a solid university program) that people really seem to not even register regulations and the politics behind it, and if they can't understand that, if they think you can successfully operate isolated from a system with "enough energy/will/self-esteem" or that the current state of fashion is really just abundance of crap and people being "unoriginal", any input will have the same non-effect as everything that's out there right now, there's really nothing you can rebel to, because you barely understand it enough to join it.

Unfortunately this is a generational thing that will take a while but I think the only options are for those in the business side to tight up the reigns in terms of what's acceptable, for people to remember to aspire too to that anonymous side of the field and claim it back, and for newer generations to not succumb and create their own outlets, with almost ridiculous dogmatic measures (just the way they had to do it in the mid 90s) with tolerance to almost nothing.

I really think that if NYFW called it a day, it would be kind of a relief.. .. as long as the remaining junk doesn't fly to the other 3 cities, of course.

 

[dsamg]

NYFW is really dead. There is nothing exciting and everything is terrible. I was depending on Raf, but then CK was so underwhelming. Wang used to be one of the biggest shows, now it has been hours since the show happened and there isn't even a thread (for good reason as it was trash). I am so sad to see this happen - I used to be so excited for the start of fashion month and now I don't think it will ever be great again.

NYFW is nothing except once-great designers trying to make their appalling, uninspiring collections relevant by posting as many pictures of Hadids and Jenners at their show as possible.

 

[modela]

Im not surprised , when the top buyers are not coming what are you supposed to do .I think the main problem lies with the CDFA.Isnt it their job to get the buyers and isnt it their job to nurture and promote potential top brands/designers.I might be wrong here.

 

[Lola701]

We are talking about NYFW but isn't also the same with London?

At least, at nyfw they still have big names like Tom Ford, Raf Simons, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs through the entire week who attract the press, the buyers and to some extend who matters to us (even if some may find them irrelevant).

LFW depends totally on JW ANDERSON first and on a business level, on Burberry. While Erdem will be an important show thanks to his H&M collection, the majority of LFW designers gets totally unnoticed during after FW. Some may have a stable business but can someone remembers Christopher Kane's last 2 collections? NO

 

[dsamg]

We are talking about NYFW but isn't also the same with London?

At least, at nyfw they still have big names like Tom Ford, Raf Simons, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs through the entire week who attract the press, the buyers and to some extend who matters to us (even if some may find them irrelevant).

LFW depends totally on JW ANDERSON first and on a business level, on Burberry. While Erdem will be an important show thanks to his H&M collection, the majority of LFW designers gets totally unnoticed during after FW. Some may have a stable business but can someone remembers Christopher Kane's last 2 collections? NO

True, but I think London has been irrelevant for as long as most of us can remember, where as in the late noughties, NYFW was arguably as exciting as Europe.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

The situation with NYFW is very interesting. There was actually quite a bit of excitement, at least, from what I experienced. I just don't think it was covered well by the press. Tom Ford, Fenty x Puma, Raf, even Marc Jacobs had exciting shows with throngs of people outside trying to get in. Say what you may about Philipp Plein, but that production he staged was absolutely wild! I mean, the entire avenue between 8th and 9th was completely blocked by people trying to get in. Even those of us who were seated guests had to fight for our dear lives just to get through. Wang didn't put on as large a spectacle but it was exciting nonetheless.

The problem with NYC is the actual fashion. It hasn't been the same since the heyday of Donna Karan, Helmut Lang, de la Renta etc. The fashion isn't strong enough, so designers are putting on spectacles instead. I suspect this has a lot to do with designers trying to figure out if people just want to see clothes or if they want an experience. Experience is the new buzz word in fashion.

Also the parties! I'm surprised Mert & Marcus' rager didn't get more press because it was really something, as well as all the other parties and events. They all contribute to the fashion week energy and vibe.

I'm not sure if NYFW is broken or if it's just evolving and we need to get used to the change.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Rodarte to Return to New York Runway
The show is planned for Sept. 9.

After showing in Paris the last few seasons, Rodarte is returning to the New York show schedule. The designers revealed the news on Instagram Monday night, saying, “We are excited to announce we will be showing our [spring 2019] collection during NYC Fashion Week. We are thrilled to create the show with our amazing team: Brian Phillips and Black Frame, Alex de Betak and Bureau Betak, IMG and our beauty and hair teams: James Kaliardos using NARS Cosmetics, Odile Gilbert for TRESemmé hair.”



Phillips told WWD that the show is planned for Sept. 9, but a location hasn’t been determined yet. For the last three seasons, Rodarte has been showing in Paris, once in a runway setting and the other two times with showroom appointments. “They’re excited to be back,” Phillips said.

Rodarte, the Los Angeles-based label designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy, decided against showing at Paris Couture Week this month. For fall 2018, the designers showed their collection in Paris via a portrait portfolio featuring some of the women who inspire them.

Source: Rodarte to Return to New York Runway

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Great news! Maybe the clothes will be better too.