Robert Clergerie
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softgrey
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Roland Mouret And Robert Clergerie On The Future Of Shoes
July 14, 2011 4:29 pm
Well, the fashion deck keeps reshuffling itself. This week, as we continued waiting for word on who will be taking the reins at Dior, two surprise—and surprising—announcements came from fashion’s headquarters over in Paris. First, it was revealed that Opening Ceremony founders and local kids-made-good Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are setting up shop at Kenzo (fueling speculation that the outgoing Kenzo designer Antonio Marras might be, yes, taking over Dior). Second, news broke that, as Robert Clergerie hands over his namesake footwear brand to Fung Brands Ltd., Roland Mouret would be coming on board as creative director. (Ending speculation that Mouret would be, well, taking over Dior.) Never a dull moment! Here, Robert Clergerie and Roland Mouret talk to Style.com about Mouret’s future in shoes.
—Maya Singer
This registered as a rather surprising appointment, given that Roland Mouret isn’t, as far as I’ve known, a shoe designer. How did it all come about?
Robert Clergerie: Well, I’ve known Roland for a long time—perhaps 20, 25 years now. A long time ago, he worked for us, doing the artistic direction of our advertising. Then we lost touch, and years later, I read in the press that he was a successful designer, and I looked at what he was doing, and I thought he was very good. And when we began the conversations with Fung, and as the sale was going through, I was thinking, We should speak to Roland.
Was there something you saw in his clothes that you felt lined up with the aesthetic of Clergerie?
RC: I think his clothes are very much on the same wavelength as Clergerie. There’s not a big interest in tricks or ornament.
Roland, do you agree with that?
Roland Mouret: Yes. I learned a lot from Robert when I was working for him. I wasn’t a designer, but I saw how focused he was on purity of line, on simplicity. There was always a sense of balance. You know, when I worked for him it was in the eighties, at a time when it was very, very trendy to wear Clergerie. But he never became a victim of his own trendiness.
What do you see as the legacy of Clergerie?
RM: Robert Clergerie is a strong shoe. There’s an architectural quality, and though the shoes are feminine, they aren’t girly. It’s about a solid 1940’s silhouette—a wedge, a platform. And they’re comfortable. That is really a signature of Robert Clergerie, comfort. Robert has always been really adamant about that, that his shoes are comfortable.
What’s your vision for the brand, going forward?
RM: Well, this isn’t a case of, you know, having to destroy and rebuild. I want to carry what he’s been doing forward. I think the key is, to take the signature elements, the comfort in particular, and position them for the red carpet and for editorial. Red-carpet shoes may be beautiful, but they aren’t usually comfortable. I’m sure there are a lot of women who would be happy to have that option.
For the past year or so, Robert Clergerie has been collaborating on a line with Opening Ceremony. Are you open to more collaborations of that kind?
RM: Well, it’s early days for my relationship with Robert Clergerie, so I don’t want to commit to anything right away. But in general, yes, absolutely. I’m based in London, which is a city of young designers, and I’m very aware of the importance of supporting talent when it’s new. I had that support from Christian Louboutin, and it was essential.
What does all this mean for your own line, Roland?
RM: I’ll continue with my own line, and with Clergerie.
And what about you, Mr. Clergerie? Are you still going to be involved with the brand going forward?
RC: I’ve been asked to participate with the collections for a time, and collaborate with Roland, which I appreciate. I don’t know for how long, we’ll see.
Last question: Do any of these changes, i.e., the sale of Robert Clergerie, the appointment of Roland Mouret as creative director, mean changes for the way Clergerie is produced? The factory in France is an important symbol of Clergerie.
RM: We must continue to have the factory. Robert Clergerie, it’s part of the price of the shoes—part of the investment—knowing that they were made in France. I think we’ll be looking at collaborating with factories in Italy and other places, but you can’t take Robert Clergerie out of France. The whole attitude is French—you see in the shoes, this mentality of the artists who go to the South of France in the summertime.
Mr. Clergerie, do you have any words of advice for Roland, going forward?
RC: Hmm. No, not really. Of course we’re talking all the time anyway, so… I’ll just say that I’m very happy. And I won’t say any more, because otherwise Roland will get a big head.
style.com
this fall will be the first collection designed by Roland Mouret
July 14, 2011 4:29 pm
—Maya Singer
This registered as a rather surprising appointment, given that Roland Mouret isn’t, as far as I’ve known, a shoe designer. How did it all come about?
Robert Clergerie: Well, I’ve known Roland for a long time—perhaps 20, 25 years now. A long time ago, he worked for us, doing the artistic direction of our advertising. Then we lost touch, and years later, I read in the press that he was a successful designer, and I looked at what he was doing, and I thought he was very good. And when we began the conversations with Fung, and as the sale was going through, I was thinking, We should speak to Roland.
Was there something you saw in his clothes that you felt lined up with the aesthetic of Clergerie?
RC: I think his clothes are very much on the same wavelength as Clergerie. There’s not a big interest in tricks or ornament.
Roland, do you agree with that?
Roland Mouret: Yes. I learned a lot from Robert when I was working for him. I wasn’t a designer, but I saw how focused he was on purity of line, on simplicity. There was always a sense of balance. You know, when I worked for him it was in the eighties, at a time when it was very, very trendy to wear Clergerie. But he never became a victim of his own trendiness.
What do you see as the legacy of Clergerie?
RM: Robert Clergerie is a strong shoe. There’s an architectural quality, and though the shoes are feminine, they aren’t girly. It’s about a solid 1940’s silhouette—a wedge, a platform. And they’re comfortable. That is really a signature of Robert Clergerie, comfort. Robert has always been really adamant about that, that his shoes are comfortable.
What’s your vision for the brand, going forward?
RM: Well, this isn’t a case of, you know, having to destroy and rebuild. I want to carry what he’s been doing forward. I think the key is, to take the signature elements, the comfort in particular, and position them for the red carpet and for editorial. Red-carpet shoes may be beautiful, but they aren’t usually comfortable. I’m sure there are a lot of women who would be happy to have that option.
For the past year or so, Robert Clergerie has been collaborating on a line with Opening Ceremony. Are you open to more collaborations of that kind?
RM: Well, it’s early days for my relationship with Robert Clergerie, so I don’t want to commit to anything right away. But in general, yes, absolutely. I’m based in London, which is a city of young designers, and I’m very aware of the importance of supporting talent when it’s new. I had that support from Christian Louboutin, and it was essential.
What does all this mean for your own line, Roland?
RM: I’ll continue with my own line, and with Clergerie.
And what about you, Mr. Clergerie? Are you still going to be involved with the brand going forward?
RC: I’ve been asked to participate with the collections for a time, and collaborate with Roland, which I appreciate. I don’t know for how long, we’ll see.
Last question: Do any of these changes, i.e., the sale of Robert Clergerie, the appointment of Roland Mouret as creative director, mean changes for the way Clergerie is produced? The factory in France is an important symbol of Clergerie.
RM: We must continue to have the factory. Robert Clergerie, it’s part of the price of the shoes—part of the investment—knowing that they were made in France. I think we’ll be looking at collaborating with factories in Italy and other places, but you can’t take Robert Clergerie out of France. The whole attitude is French—you see in the shoes, this mentality of the artists who go to the South of France in the summertime.
Mr. Clergerie, do you have any words of advice for Roland, going forward?
RC: Hmm. No, not really. Of course we’re talking all the time anyway, so… I’ll just say that I’m very happy. And I won’t say any more, because otherwise Roland will get a big head.
style.com
this fall will be the first collection designed by Roland Mouret
Oh thanks Softie...I'm a longtime Clergerie fan...I do think Mouret's aesthetic is complementary but I loved the bottom-heavy almost Bauhaus-like sense of balance and elegance (I would not call it chunky or quirky because it was way too sophisticated for that) that characterized their style, which i don't see this season...which seems a little more mainstream.... the idea of "red carpet" worries me a little...
another good thing about their shoes is that they are super well-made. I love that they have a school too!
Speaking of warehouses, I wonder if they have warehouse sales...
another good thing about their shoes is that they are super well-made. I love that they have a school too!Speaking of warehouses, I wonder if they have warehouse sales...
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softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
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^^ super well made and super comfortable...i can attest to this personally...
i had gone off the brand when clergerie stopped designing for a while...
but then he took over again and i started liking it again...
i'm glad that this transition is something he is working on with mouret...
fall looks good, imo
*many of the styles i like are actually all sold out in my size already...
i'm thinking this is going to be alright...
more like a passing of the baton from one designer to the next...
this is the way it should be done whenever possible...
i had gone off the brand when clergerie stopped designing for a while...
but then he took over again and i started liking it again...
i'm glad that this transition is something he is working on with mouret...
fall looks good, imo
*many of the styles i like are actually all sold out in my size already...
i'm thinking this is going to be alright...
more like a passing of the baton from one designer to the next...
this is the way it should be done whenever possible...
softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
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i just got these...
not from here- but this is the style...
soooooo comfortable...just what i have been looking for...
http://www.6pm.com/robert-clergerie-racot-black
not from here- but this is the style...
soooooo comfortable...just what i have been looking for...
http://www.6pm.com/robert-clergerie-racot-black
softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
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November 17, 2010
Robert Clergerie: Footwear Feats
The Legendary Designer of Oxford Lace-Ups Celebrates 30 Years of Shoe Invention
In 1981, Robert Clergerie began making women’s shoes on men’s lasts, fuelling a burgeoning trend for androgynous style that has had a massive resurgence in recent years—witness the penny loafers being fielded by Miu Miu and Chloé this fall. He may have had a huge influence on women’s footwear, but it was almost by chance that Clergerie found his calling: in the 1970s, having just left the army and during a spell working in road construction, he applied for a job managing a subsidiary of Charles Jourdan. After six years in the business he set out on his own; spotting that an old men’s shoe factory, Joseph Fenestrier, was in financial trouble, he rescued it and began producing his trademark styles, moccasins and rope sandals among them. To this day he is remarkably pragmatic about his vision: “The design of shoes is largely determined by the knowledge and technique of the factory,” he explains. “And as I make shoes in a men’s shoe factory, all the technical operations determine the style.” Lucky for him that as trends come and go, his signature Oxford has remained a fashion mainstay, a fact clearly demonstrated by these images from the past three decades and his current collaboration with hip boutique Opening Ceremony. So how would he describe his perfect customer? “The Clergerie woman is more remarkable by her education than by the money she makes,” he says with a Gallic shrug.
nowness
Robert Clergerie: Footwear Feats
The Legendary Designer of Oxford Lace-Ups Celebrates 30 Years of Shoe Invention
In 1981, Robert Clergerie began making women’s shoes on men’s lasts, fuelling a burgeoning trend for androgynous style that has had a massive resurgence in recent years—witness the penny loafers being fielded by Miu Miu and Chloé this fall. He may have had a huge influence on women’s footwear, but it was almost by chance that Clergerie found his calling: in the 1970s, having just left the army and during a spell working in road construction, he applied for a job managing a subsidiary of Charles Jourdan. After six years in the business he set out on his own; spotting that an old men’s shoe factory, Joseph Fenestrier, was in financial trouble, he rescued it and began producing his trademark styles, moccasins and rope sandals among them. To this day he is remarkably pragmatic about his vision: “The design of shoes is largely determined by the knowledge and technique of the factory,” he explains. “And as I make shoes in a men’s shoe factory, all the technical operations determine the style.” Lucky for him that as trends come and go, his signature Oxford has remained a fashion mainstay, a fact clearly demonstrated by these images from the past three decades and his current collaboration with hip boutique Opening Ceremony. So how would he describe his perfect customer? “The Clergerie woman is more remarkable by her education than by the money she makes,” he says with a Gallic shrug.
nowness
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“The design of shoes is largely determined by the knowledge and technique of the factory,” he explains. “And as I make shoes in a men’s shoe factory, all the technical operations determine the style.” Lucky for him that as trends come and go, his signature Oxford has remained a fashion mainstay, a fact clearly demonstrated by these images from the past three decades and his current collaboration with hip boutique Opening Ceremony. So how would he describe his perfect customer? “The Clergerie woman is more remarkable by her education than by the money she makes,” he says with a Gallic shrug.
Thanks Softie,
So much loveliness in that paragraph--the whole thing you posted I mean. But I love what he says about the factories...wondering though, why oh why is this something we give so little attention to? Shoe manufacure and factories fascinate me, perhaps even more so than clothing. Choosing a manufacturer or method for shoes is a huge part of the product. I would think this is something crucial to the consumer as well...
And by the way, adooooore the gold sandals...
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softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
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Thanks Softie,
But I love what he says about the factories...wondering though, why oh why is this something we give so little attention to? Shoe manufacure and factories fascinate me, perhaps even more so than clothing. Choosing a manufacturer or method for shoes is a huge part of the product. I would think this is something crucial to the consumer as well...
And by the way, adooooore the gold sandals...
my pleasure...
you know what's funny- i have always loved his vibe, but had no idea about this boy meets girl element of the business...
i don't know how this hasn't come up either...
i guess he didn't bring it up so it wasn't really known...
and probably no one asked because they didn't even know to ask...
i know that i had never considered that men's shoes and women's shoes are made differently...
shoes are shoes...
or so i thought...
but now that it has been brought to my attention, it's so obvious...
that is why i thought it important enough to share...
btw-
i will practically guarantee those aren't gold shoes...
i would guess bronze or pewter...
something more subtle than gold...
both styles i posted are iconic clergerie imo...
i have two pairs of ankle strap sandals that are each descendants of that pair...
have ALWAYS lusted after the straw rope platforms...
some day...
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my pleasure...
and probably no one asked because they didn't even know to ask...
i know that i had never considered that men's shoes and women's shoes are made differently...
shoes are shoes...
or so i thought...
but now that it has been brought to my attention, it's so obvious...
that is why i thought it important enough to share...
btw-
i will practically guarantee those aren't gold shoes...
i would guess bronze or pewter...
something more subtle than gold...
both styles i posted are iconic clergerie imo...
i have two pairs of ankle strap sandals that are each descendants of that pair...
have ALWAYS lusted after the straw rope platforms...
some day...
Yes, true nobody asked because we didn't know to ask...it's high time we started that conversation more in-depth and openly and honor the artisans more.
Clergerie shoes are so well made; my pair from the nineties are still in perfect shape.
Haha, I was actually referring to the straw sandals; I took one fleeting glance and they just seemed to pop out with such luminosity that I immediately imagined them a kind of tarnished gold colour, which would be nice too.
On my wishlist too, one of his platform wedge sandals with ankle-strap.I fantasize about studying shoemaking at their school...in another lifetime.
softgrey
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ah- i see why you thought the straw was a tarnished gold...
that would be nice~!
they still make them- which is great!
the only reason i have never bought them is that i imagine they would be ruined by the streets of nyc...
...
i hear you- my clergeries from the 90's are both still alive and kicking!
the other pair that i have always wanted is the stretch boots with the square heel...
there is suede and that lovely crepe stretchy fabric...
they just started making them again, but always with some funky heel...
i have been waiting for them to get over that and just go back to the original style which i think i have just seen, so i may have to bite the bullet and make the investment~!
i'm just so glad they are back to their roots...
that would be nice~!
they still make them- which is great!
the only reason i have never bought them is that i imagine they would be ruined by the streets of nyc...
...i hear you- my clergeries from the 90's are both still alive and kicking!
the other pair that i have always wanted is the stretch boots with the square heel...
there is suede and that lovely crepe stretchy fabric...
they just started making them again, but always with some funky heel...
i have been waiting for them to get over that and just go back to the original style which i think i have just seen, so i may have to bite the bullet and make the investment~!
i'm just so glad they are back to their roots...
softgrey
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agreed!!
so- now i have found the first pair of mary janes i have ever wanted in my entire life...
argh!
what is going on this season...
so many amazing shoes, i cannot possibly get them all but it is so hard to choose!!!
...
...
...
farfetch
so- now i have found the first pair of mary janes i have ever wanted in my entire life...
argh!
what is going on this season...
so many amazing shoes, i cannot possibly get them all but it is so hard to choose!!!
.........farfetch
