Tom Ford S/S 2024 Milan

It's exactly what I expected. Not in a bad way though.
 
Good debut…
This is not a groundbreaking collection or something that will change fashion but it’s a good exercise in refreshing the language of Tom Ford.

The spirit of the house is here, it’s definitely younger and more relaxed.

‘He is a menswear designer at first so he went with what he is comfortable with which mean tailoring and a lot of techniques he already experimented for the menswear.

‘However, I’m tired of seeing column jersey dresses and I feel like while the tension between chic and vulgarity that is very TF is there, some looks are very bordeline. It has that Bally by Rhuigi thing.

‘I really love the 2 last looks. The pantsuits are perfect, the hot pants can’t wait to be part of one of Emmanuelle’s editorial. The croc embossed skirts are very beautiful and that green skirt with the champagne blouse if an interesting take on eveningwear for the brand. The bags are great too… Not very fan of the shoes though.

‘Overall, there’s really nothing really new, because those are elements we have seen from Tom even if they are updated, but it’s a nice debut and a nice base to build a new vocabulary on.
 
I like it

it is more of the same which is not a bad thing but with an ease that Tom Ford was missing and had lost.


A good debut.

feels younger without chasing youth and alienating his customer.

It is not pushing fashion forward but the rarer will look fashionable and luxurious.
 
More Tom Ford than Tom Ford. Good debut but he has been working for the company for ages and clearly been hired to continue the official line of the house since the founder is alive and the expectations are high. Nothing super exciting tbh, waiting for next season and one after to see what he can do while he is more relaxed.

Missing velvet tuxedos tho !
 
Can’t say I’m disappointed— nor am I excited. It’s all just repurposed/remixed/redux Tom’s Gucci, YSL, and OG Tom Ford. If one’s been there since his Gucci days, then one’s already owned everything here— and the superior version to boot. These are just for when your OGGucci/YSL/Tom Ford have seen better days and you’d like a newer version of the same design. And frankly, the Tom Ford brand is passed fashion, and into wardrobe staples at this point anyway. Eh.

Smart of him to lead off with the all-black looks, because once he gets into color, the looks start to reveal a cheaper, 2nd-rate stench. And frankly, the younger cast just looks like poser children raiding their more stylish, cooler and hotter parents’ wardrobes. Tom’s Gucci and YSL never was for children.
 
It's a good debut, but also a very safe one. Nothing has really changed when it comes to menswear, but the womenswear part is actually interesting. Even if it's referential, it doesn't feel dated at all. Perhaps it's the timelessness of OG Ford's designs. However, I'm a bit afraid how it's going to work outside the context of the show, because some pieces will look tackier than Cavalli.

I'd say the team has to find their own way to refine things and push new ideas forward, because nostalgia works for limited time and they should be aware of that. For now, they've succeeded in matching Tom Ford man with Tom Ford woman.
 
It looks very 2005 and that's not necessarily a bad thing. It's an understated glamour. It's not so over the top sexy that it's intimidating, instead it's attainable for many different women. My favorite look is the fringe skirt with the unbuttoned gold blouse, it's so Carine! It's a good debut that certainly checks all the boxes. I have a good feeling about him.
 
From the collection down to how Mr Hawkings looks, this is referential and nothing more.

It's like seeing a tribute show. It's well-executed, and it's great if you are planning to get those iconic signature pieces because you weren't around during Tom's Gucci era.

But will Hawkings take the Tom Ford brand towards the future and compose with the existing vocabulary to create a new chapter? Or will we just be revisiting Tom's past constantly?

He makes a decent clone and masters the TF language. Now I hope he will morph into himself, otherwise it will get redundant... Let's see!
 
From the collection down to how Mr Hawkings looks, this is referential and nothing more.

It's like seeing a tribute show. It's well-executed, and it's great if you are planning to get those iconic signature pieces because you weren't around during Tom's Gucci era.

But will Hawkings take the Tom Ford brand towards the future and compose with the existing vocabulary to create a new chapter? Or will we just be revisiting Tom's past constantly?

He makes a decent clone and masters the TF language. Now I hope he will morph into himself, otherwise it will get redundant... Let's see!
I 100% agree, it's a brilliant tribute but I was expecting some new direction, not 100% nostalgia, so it's kinda disappointing.
Mr Hawkings glasses and facial hair style remind me way too much of Terry Richardson, and that was quite disturbing tbh.
 
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