HeatherAnne
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Thoughts? I see very few of my top 10 shows in there.
vogue.com
The Top 10 Collections of Fall 2016
by Nicole Phelps
Disruption? 2016 isn’t the year of disruption. In fashion, at least, it’s the year of confusion. New York is advocating for see-now-buy-now collections. Milan and Paris have come out strongly against them. And meanwhile, the consumer-facing runway show of the future is already here—thank you very much, Kanye West.
One thing we can be clear on: the season’s best shows. The consensus vote at Vogue.com for spot number one goes to Demna Gvasalia’s coolly confident Balenciaga debut. Gvasalia merged Cristóbal’s couture shapes with his own streetwise sensibility and came up with the hero outfit of the season: a red parka slouching off the shoulders of a crystal-strewn turtleneck worn with stirrup pants and strass-covered pumps. There were many more instantly desirable pieces. The pressure is officially on at Dior, which is still creative director–less at season’s end, and Lanvin, which today named Bouchra Jarrar as its new artistic director of women’s collections.
When we were tallying up our Top 10 list, we noticed that half of it was women designers: Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters in New York by way of L.A.; Simone Rocha and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton in London; and in Milan, Miuccia Prada. Koché’s Christelle Kocher didn’t quite make the cut, but we can’t stop thinking about her electric Paris show.
Find our complete coverage of the season here. Now, in chronological order, Vogue.com’s Top 10 shows of Fall ’16.
1. Rodarte
Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s Rodarte label just turned 10, but it remains an independent passion project, one that they pour their California heritage, offbeat obsessions, and sisterly devotion into each season. No wonder it’s one of the most emotionally resonant shows on the calendar. Their spangly lace patchworked dresses for Fall are future heirlooms.
2. Marc Jacobs
Last season’s red, white, and blue ode to Americana was replaced by something more gothic in shades of black and white. This was another one of Marc Jacobs’s famous 180s, one that felt well attuned to the prevailing dark national mood, but nonetheless energized a crowd made weary by New York show overload and the unrelenting see-now-buy-now discussion. Jacobs’s dramatic, labored-over clothes will make glorious photo shoots. Piece by piece, there were gorgeous treasures.
3. Simone Rocha
A newborn baby could’ve distracted Simone Rocha from the task of making her Fall collection; on the contrary, it energized her. Chalk it up to mother love. There was pink, lilac, gold, and red, but it wasn’t all sweetness and light. She ended with a series of sparkly neo-Victorian frocks, close inspection of which revealed they were disintegrating.
4. Erdem
No one channeled the 1930s mood coursing through the collections as convincingly as Erdem Moralioglu, who dreamed up a Hollywood back-lot audition and a cast of aspiring actresses wearing his special dresses. There were patchworks of delicate lace, shimmering fils coupe floral motifs, and metallic sequins that looked like poured silver. The starring role? A long-sleeved sheath dripping in gold tinsel.
5. Alexander McQueen
In a season when not much attention was paid to eveningwear, designer Sarah Burton’s ravishing creations for Alexander McQueen were in a class entirely their own. This glittering column and matching cape were so exquisite, so Old Hollywood glamorous, the only question was: Why didn’t Best Actress nominee Cate Blanchett wear them to the Academy Awards? We’ll keep our fingers crossed for next year.
6. Prada
Miuccia Prada conjured a chic vagabond for Fall, cloaked in layers of mannish tweeds, womanly gilded silks, and talismans she’s picked up on her journeys. Boiled down to its essence, though, this was a show about a statement coat (fur sleeves are always a plus) and decorated tights. Fall is going to be a big season for hosiery.
7. Marni
Like the look of Fall’s dramatic sleeves? Want to give the season’s cape silhouette a twirl? Consuelo Castiglioni is your woman. The Marni founder put dramatic, rounded proportions at the center of her glamorous collection, side by side with bold print and intense beadwork on menswear plaids of all things. Her velvety blue and white jacquard could go down as the most gorgeous fabric of the season.
8. Loewe
The word Jonathan Anderson used to describe the well-layered and enthusiastically accessorized look of his Loewe show was curated. Going on the ecstatic response backstage at his UNESCO headquarters location, you can bet there will be plenty of front row types curating Loewe collections of their own next season. We loved the unironic, almost dancerly silhouette.
9. Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga debut was the most anticipated show of the season. Could the buzzy Vetements cofounder with his up-from-the-streets aesthetic take on the couture heritage of Cristóbal? Gvasalia can and he did, turning out a collection that dipped into the archives but retained his cool, modern sensibility. Prepare to see a lot of his shrugged-from-the-shoulders red puffer jackets this time next year.
10. Louis Vuitton
Two years into his Louis Vuitton tenure, Nicolas Ghesquière merged sportif references, sensual slip dressing, and a soupçon of his great tailoring into a lineup with tons of real-world potential. A monogram bag modeled on plastic shopping sacks and sturdy combat booties summed up its chic, street-ready vibes.
vogue.com
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