1906-1978 Charles James

[DosViolines]

Charles James Cutaway Bolero Jacket
American, 1952
Of navy blue satin, cutting away in a circle from neckline to center back, the collar comprising two interlocking pointed tabs creating an X at neck, three-quarter straight sleeves, two triangular insets at back, geranium pink silk faille lining, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Charles James Two-Piece Evening Ensemble
American, circa1948
Comprising a copper/green silk faille and satin bodice and pale blue/green satin skirt, the sweetheart line bodice with short off-the-shoulder satin sleeves pleated at bust and fitted at waist and over hips, peach satin lining and interior boning, the skirt circular, with single front center inverted pleat, two angled side back zippers, black velvet integral tie.

Two of Charles James' most important clients were photographed wearing this bodice. Mrs. William Randolph (Austine) Hearst was photographed by Louise Dahl-Wolf wearing an identical skirt and bodice ensemble. See Harper's Bazaar, December, 1948, p.105. Standard oil heiress Millicent Huddleston Rogers wears the bodice with a different skirt in the often-published seated photo of her by Horst. See U.S Vogue, February 1, 1949.
See Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Genius of Charles James, p.114, for first, pp.43, 137 for second.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Probably same bodice as the one in post #9:

Charles James Black Velvet Bodice
American, circa 1949
With off-the-shoulder vestigial sleeves, structured cuffed neckline folded up into point at center, fitted at waist and over hip to rounded point at front and back center, interior boning and ivory satin lining.

James used this bodice style as part of several of his dress designs, as well as a separate worn with evening skirts. Rebecca Guggenheim Logan sat for a portrait wearing a blue satin version of it with a green satin version of the skirt in Lot . The design also comprises the bodice of the famous "March of Dimes" dress owned by eight of James' most important clients.
See Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Genius of Charles James, pp.36,42,50-51,122, cats.68 and 70, 124,cat.83.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Charles James Draped Satin Skirt
American, circa 1947
Floor length, of pale aqua satin, with matt silk insets at top of hip and wide boned cumberbund waistband, the front draped in a pouf at knee level.

This was a design that James used in various forms from 1939 to 1947. A gown with this skirt was photographed by Louise Dahl-Wolf. See Harper's Bazaar, April, 1947, p.181 and Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Genius of Charles James, pp.37,120.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

In post #3 you can see the frontview of this dress:

Charles James Asymmetrical Cocktail Dress
American, late 1940s
The dress conceived as a sculpture spiraling around the body, the bodice and asymmetrical front skirt tablier of brown/gray silk faille, the skirt of copper silk satin, the bodice with high straight neckline and extended shoulders, slashed at oblique angle from right shoulder to center and cut in low V to small of back, back inset at waist sewn with grain at opposite angle to main bodice.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Charles James Satin Polonaise Dress
American, late 1940s
Of bronzed green silk satin, the fitted bodice sleeveless, with square cut armscyes and neckline, angled seaming from neckline corners to waist, the flared skirt sewn with partial overskirt draped at hip level in polonaise style, integral black tie at waist.

doylenewyork

 

[scriptgirl]

Flawless!

 

[bbofbalenciaga]

This man is amazing, his designs are really modern, that 1937 white jacket its amazing for the time, and the olive green and gold dress looks like a Nicolas Ghesqueire design.

 

[bbofbalenciaga]

He was sort of Helmut lang, always pushing the envelope.

 

[Spiral1532]

Silk ballgown, 1953.

artknowledgenews.com

 

[Inaya]

nice to find this thread. I should venture this subforum more

one of my favorites of his was this one, so great for it's time but, like many of his works, still amazing today

from 1953

metmuseum

 

[brooksie]

Storing these types of gowns usually involved having special shelves in one's closet so the dresses (either whole or in pieces) could be laid flat in specially made boxes. Given the weight and embellishment that most couture garments had, that was pretty much the only way to store them.

 

[crushmyvelvet]

Charles James exhibit in Chicago

I don't know if any of you are from Chicago or the Midwest, but just thought I'd put this out there for you Charles James aficionados...

I work at the Chicago History Museum (which has the 2nd largest historical costume collection in the world) and we've got an exhibit on Charles James opening in October. You can find out more info here: chicagohistory.org/charles-james

The Chicago History Museum also hosts an annual fashion design competition called FashioNext. It works sort of like Project Runway -- this year, we have 3 Chicago fashion design students competing -- each contestant must create a garment inspired by Charles James. (http://media.modernluxury.com/chicago-charles-james-exhibition/charles-james-fashion-design-competition-fashionext.php)

You can find out more info via the Chicago History Museum's twitter @ChicagoMuseum, or at the Chicago History Museum Fashion History twitter @Coco_Chicago.

But yeah, if any of you are in the mood to take a trip to Chicago, this will definitely be something worth seeing!

 

[idiotica]

I don't know if any of you are from Chicago or the Midwest, but just thought I'd put this out there for you Charles James aficionados...

I work at the Chicago History Museum (which has the 2nd largest historical costume collection in the world) and we've got an exhibit on Charles James opening in October. You can find out more info here: chicagohistory.org/charles-james

The Chicago History Museum also hosts an annual fashion design competition called FashioNext. It works sort of like Project Runway -- this year, we have 3 Chicago fashion design students competing -- each contestant must create a garment inspired by Charles James. (http://media.modernluxury.com/chicago-charles-james-exhibition/charles-james-fashion-design-competition-fashionext.php)

You can find out more info via the Chicago History Museum's twitter @ChicagoMuseum, or at the Chicago History Museum Fashion History twitter @Coco_Chicago.

But yeah, if any of you are in the mood to take a trip to Chicago, this will definitely be something worth seeing!

You've just made my day!! I've been dreaming of a Charles James exhibit for like ever. (The people at Metmuseum were hinting at doing one two years ago when they took over the Brooklyn Museum collection. So I was somewhat sad when they announced it will be Prada/Schiaparelli next year 2012.)

Chicago here I come~

 

[idiotica]

One of my favourite Charles James creations. Photographed by Richard Avedon.
The Metropolitan Museum has a similar version without straps: http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80005921

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US March 1, 1948
"Charles James Designs"
Photographer: Cecil Beaton



Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US December 1, 1945
"The James Cut"
Photographer: John Rawlings



Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US May 2014
"Charles James: The One and Only"
Photographer: Tim Walker
Stylist: Grace Coddington
Hair: Julien d’Ys
Make-up: Lucia Pieroni
Models: Grace Mahary, Maja Salamon, Ola Rudnicka, Codie Young, Esmeralda Seay-Reynolds, Nastya Sten, Sasha Luss, Alexandra Kivimaki, Alice Cornish & Fei Fei Sun





Vogue US 05/2014 Digital Edition via Zorka

 

[blueorchid]

New York Magazine - October 16, 1978
"The Ghost of Seventh Avenue" by John Duka
Featuring: Charles James
Photographer: Art Kane




books.google

 

[blueorchid]

“Clover” evening dress - 1950

“Clover” evening dress, 1950
Silk satin, silk taffeta
Worn by donor, Mrs. William O. Hunt

artsandculture.google