1952-1990's Chloé

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from chloe.com
Chloé founded 1952 by Gaby Aghion, an Egyptian-born Parisienne


Rejecting the stiff formality of the 50’s fashion, she created soft, body conscious clothes from fine fabrics and called them “luxury prêt-à-porter”. unique for their time, they were beautifully made clothes available off the rack.
In 1956, gaby aghion and her business partner, jacques lenoir, debuted the first collection over breakfast at café de flore, which, as the city’s infamous meeting ground for existentialists and artists, was one of their own favorite haunts.



“chloé” – a name they chose for its warm, feminine appeal – was perfectly in synch with the new mood of paris : youthful and modern in design, and slightly audacious in spirit.
  1. Left: 1972 Chloé sprigged crêpe-de-Chine shirt & skirt,pink straw petal-brimmed hat, and shiny high red leather shoes. Right: Mary Quant black Crimplene suit, puff-sleeved jacket buttoned to wait in red, with whirling skirt.
  2. 1974 Chloé loose shirt with Peter Pan collar and wide cuffs and long, flaring skirt.
 

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top to bottom...
  1. 1976 embroidered cream silk and lace dress and pantaloons.
  2. 1977 "Jacobean mistress' in fine cream Chantilly lace ruffles and mink ruffs, dusty beige stitched with gold sequins and gilt thread, tied with bows.
  3. 1977 flower-printed wool dress, hitched up into boots, and brown felt Cavalier hat trimmed with an indigo feather.
  4. 1978 Mugler's rib-shouldered gold/khaki leather greatcoat w/ stud fastenings & leather helmet. Brooch by Chloé.
 

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  1. 1982 grey flannel skirt, charcoal-grey and dove-grey cardigan, cream silk blouse and grey leather stomacher.
  2. 1982 boat-necked silk jersey dress with straight, above-the-knee skirt and slashed silver chameleon frills, elbow-length kid gloves and high-heeled kid boots.
  3. 1983 Prince of Wales check wool blouse, skirt and seven-eights coat over a black underskirt.
 

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more history from Chloe.com

in the 60’s, chloé hothoused a group of youthful left bank designers who later defined the paris ready-to-wear movement, “le style”.

in 1966, karl lagerfeld became the house’s head designer, and under his direction chloe became one of the most iconic fashion brands of the 1970’s. jackie kennedy and brigitte bardot, maria callas and grace kelly all came to chloe’s boutique in the 7eme in search of luxurious daywear. with its romantic, gauzy blouses and long skirts, chloé defined the look of a generation.

in the 80’s, a series of talented designers including martine sitbon kept the collections fresh and ever-changing, whilst reiterating chloé’s quixotic ability to be both cutting-edge and timeless at once.

after the house was bought by the luxury goods conglomerate richemont group in 1985, its notoriety grew around the globe.

in 1997, stella mccartney reinvented chloé once more, with a romantic yet streetwise mix of vintage lingerie, tailoring, and signature low-rider trousers that hit a nerve with young women around the world and propelled the house to a new level of success.

from 2001 to 2005, the creative director, phoebe philo, has continued the chloé legacy of luxurious, audacious prêt-à-porter whilst stamping the house with her own unique signature : sexy daywear, fluid lines, graceful and distinctly modern diaphanous tops.

on october 11, 2006 a new chief designer has been appointed, paulo melim andersson : he becomes part of the chloé design legacy.

today, just like grace kelly and maria callas did before them, young stars like kirsten dunst, natalie portman and lou doillon have fallen in love with the soft elegance of the french house.

more than fifty years after gaby aghion imagined it, chloé’s vision of romantic, ultra feminine fashion lives on.
 
1966 design by Jeanne Do for Chloé
square pastiche: dress with a short, cutaway top and a skirt falling to the ankles,
decorated with silver squares and pearls

66chloejeannedo.jpg


1975 design by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé
black jersey sarong dress

75chloe-lagerfeldsarong.jpg

all images posted are from Vogue history of 20th Century Fashion by Jane Mulvagh
 
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1. 1960s-80s vintage Chloe dress
2. 1970s vintage Chloe skirt

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ebay.com
 
I've always loved that photo of the black sarong dress, it's one of the sexiest things I've ever seen. I never knew it was Lagerfeld for Chloe though.
 
A Moment With Gaby Aghion
The Chloé founder on life after Phoebe

Monday, March 13, 2006

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Phoebe Philo and Gaby Aghion
© Swan

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(PARIS)
The fashion community waited with bated breath this season over what would become of Chloé without Phoebe Philo. Technically, it was Philo’s second season away from the reigns—the designer took last fall off as well, choosing instead to sit front-row—though she had not yet resigned from the company. Enormous changes at the last minute were all in a day’s work for Gaby Aghion, the Egyptian-born Parisian who founded the house of Chloé in 1952. Moments before the first look hit the runway, The Daily caught up with the petite fashion legend, who sold the company in 1985.

How did you come up with the name Chloé?
A friend of mine had that name, and I thought it was pretty. I could not put my name on the label because at that time you couldn’t do that. Mythologically, Chloé was a goddess—a wicked woman. But I’m not wicked; I have been strong.


What’s your most memorable Chloé moment?
I don’t have one really. Perhaps only that it was a very important adventure. There was only couture back when we started and we were among the first to create ready to wear, elegant ready to wear. Now everybody wants to be successful. To be a success you must work a lot; people don’t understand that.


What was your take on Phoebe Philo?
I thought Phoebe was very nice. I don’t know why she didn’t stay. I told her to be careful because you don’t make a career in one or two years. I took a lot of years to be Chloé.


Are you happy with how Chloé turned out?
I think [Ralph] Toledano is running the business in a nice way, because for a few years there, it was not so good.


Do you ever think about going back to Chloé?
When I sold Chloé, I sold Chloé. I touch nothing else. The adventure of fashion continues to interest me—but only as a spectator.
 
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more images from Vogue history of 20th Century Fashion
from top to bottom...

  • panne velvet coat with raglan sleeves and narrow collar is hand-painted with clouds and a snow scene. Ostrich-trimmed panne velvet hat.
  • Two silk semicircles: one acts as a wrap-over skirt, the other as a shawl and black jersey halterneck top.
  • Mario Valentino's 5-inch-high shoes worn with Chloé's pleated dresses.
 

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thefrock
 

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Models wearing Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe in:
US Vogue July 1983
The Contrast: the polished style / the freer spirit
Stylist: Polly Allen Mellen
Hair: John Sahag
Makeup: Tyen of Paris
Photographs: Helmut Newton
Scanned by MissMagAddict

original post
 

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Just realized that the last piece in post #3 is the same as the last piece in post #12 ;)

Chloe Simulated Pearl Choker
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1979
Of silver plated metal with diagonal rows of simulated pearls, signed: Ugo Correani Per Chloe.

See French Vogue, October 1979, p.14.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Simulated Pearl Collar and Cuff
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1979
Of silver plated metal with diagonal rows of simulated pearls, the collar, , signed with paper label: Ugo Correani,
the cuff, unsigned.

For collar, see WWD, April 9, 1979 and American Vogue, July 1979, p.110, for cuff, see French Vogue, August 1979, p.59.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Guitar Pin and Earclips
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1983
Of orange and blue polyester resin, mirror, multicolored rhinestones and fishing line, with silver plated findings, the pin,signed: Ugo Correani/Made in Italy, the earclips, one signed: Ugo Correani/Made in Italy.

See Milbank, The Couture Accessory, p.108.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Rooster Brooch
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1983
Of handworked, silver plated brass with round, square and marquise-cut rhinestones, unsigned.

See Orafo Italiano April 1991, p.110.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Piano Keyboard Choker
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1983
In black and white plastic, length 12 1/4 inches, marked with paper label: Ugo Correani x Karl Lagerfeld.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Swarovski Crystal Cuff Bracelet
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1983
Of silver plated polyester resin and square-cut Swarovski crystals in rows, unsigned.

See McDowell, McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion, p. 191.
doylenewyork

 

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Chloe Pectoral Necklace
Karl Lagerfeld and Ugo Correani for Chloe, French, 1983
Of a handworked, silver plated brass sheet, simulating draped fabric, studded with multicolored stones at the edge, silver plated chain; necklace approximate length 32 inches, pendant 10 x 10 inches, signed: Ugo Correani Per Chloe.
doylenewyork

 

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