A Retrospective: Chloé under Karl Lagerfeld (1966-1983 & 1992-1997)

Benn98

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Full library of Karl Lagerfeld's work for Chloe. Because very few pictures or videos of his tenure at the house exist, I'm sure it will be fine to post runway shows, as well as Bailey's iconic campaigns, and interviews in this thread. You're welcome to kick off with your favourite for the brand.

From the NY Times archive:

FASHION: PARIS REPORT

By CARRIE DONOVAN
DEC. 6, 1992

The set should have been a tip-off. The designer Karl Lagerfeld, returning to the house of Chloe after an absence of nearly 10 years, had asked that the bare tent in a courtyard of the Louvre -- where the French pret-a-porter collections are shown -- be transformed into a sentimental valentine.

The backdrop was sky blue with fluffy clouds and cupids. A white trellis enclosed the runway. Then out came a parade of the world's top models, beautiful creatures who are used to being tricked up in everything from heavy metal to the most beautiful (or dreariest) clothes. They had, however, never looked like this. Their startlingly sheer outfits, pajamas, tunics, dresses and jackets were softly colored or subtly printed in blocks of pastel. Rickrack lace edged or made up whole dresses. Everything fluttered with femininity.

The accessories were in the same mode. Bits of chiffon became hats. Bits of beads were necklaces. Pale hose descended to delicate booties of the same shade. It was saccharine style done in the most sophisticated manner. In those few minutes, fashion took a new turn.

Lagerfeld's Chloe collection was the most extreme example of a wave of softer, feminine fashion now emanating from Paris. Though each interpreted it in his own way, the feeling was particularly evident in Lagerfeld's own collection as well as the collections of Issey Miyake, Claude Montana, Hermes, Christian Lacroix and even Jean-Paul Gaultier and Herve Leger. Those who did not express it looked stuck in the 80's.

PARIS, AS THE CENTER OF FASHION creativity, sets style, and Karl Lagerfeld is one of its most important players. What he materializes carries great weight -- even when the message is weightlessness. The big question remains, however: Where and how do you wear these clothes? The last time women ventured out in styles as degage and sheer as nightgowns was in the early 1800's. It's hard to imagine today's woman breezing into the work place in such provocative garb. Yet the mode and its mood is infectious. Women will meld pieces of this new feminine fashion into their existing wardrobes.

Lagerfeld took a slightly sharper turn with the collection he designs under his own name. Though the bottoms of most outfits were sheer -- chiffon pants over shorts, or crochet-lace skirts -- the jackets were tailored. Nevertheless, they had soft shoulders and were made of pliant fabrics.
Lagerfeld's Chanel collection also had some of the new softer feeling. Additionally, he unleashed a bag of chic tricks. He shrank the famous Chanel jacket to show the midriff. He also instituted Chanel-branded briefs, a la Jockey or Calvin Klein. (They will cost $160 a pair.)

Source: NY Times
 
Chlo%C3%A9-by-Karl-Lagerfeld.jpg


This is Lagerfeld’s 1967 “Astoria” dress, which took inspiration from Thomas Malory’s book Le Morte d’Arthur, illustrated by Aubrey Beardsley in 1893. The full-length, high-necked, and long-sleeved design stood out in a period of micro-mini, body-revealing styles, but Lagerfeld’s unique design sensibility is even more evident in the floral motifs hand-painted by Nicole Lefort. The expanse of ivory silk crepe used to make the dress acted as a canvas for an array of

The colorful, stylized flowers that swirl around the entire garment – so precisely rendered that they look screen-printed, rather than hand-painted. Chloé’s ready-to-wear revolution had truly come into its own.


The Museum at FIT
 


A KARL LAGERFELD FOR CHLOÉ ROYAL BLUE SATIN DRESS
UNLABELLED, AUTUMN/WINTER 1983
The low V-neck bodice embroidered with tap motifs in beads and silver sequins, with diamanté button fastening to the back, the sleeves long, embellished with diamanté buttons at the wrists

christie's
 
Chloé RTW Spring/Summer 1979, Part 1
Photographed by: Paul van Riel









europeana.eu
 
Chloé RTW Spring/Summer 1979, Part 2
Photographed by: Paul van Riel









europeana.eu
 

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