Alexander Vauthier Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[WAVES]

it’s a bit hit and miss for me. there’s a sexy edginess that I might’ve gotten used to his HC proposal that I’m missing here.

amazing to see Karmen, Elise, Kasia, though.

 

[Avonlea]

daddy

 

[DK92]

GEORGINA! ♥

 

[Phuel]

daddy

Someone's been training...

Some of the looks look so heavy, cumbersome and bottom-heavy— like, all the brown looks has the women looking stocky. That, and the pants look poorly-tailored; maybe they were hemmed in a rush…

The rest are rather splendid, decadent jewels appropriate for his women’s life. The golden quilted lamé(/) suiting is rather achingly to-die-for. And paired with the women’s tuxedo impeccably tailored on the guy, that’s all the fortunate clientele would really need.

 

[Salvatore]

First things first … I’d take Alexandre in my bed over Jacquemus any day if we want to talk about hot designers ! Rhooo

Second, I agree it’s hit or mess, but I absolutely appreciate his place in the couture world. That dress on Akon … YES ! Look N.5 … the gold … If I were a lady I’d be in that immediately !! All the le smoking looks … my god. Big fan !

Thirdly … Elise, CARMEN, Delphine, etc … GREAT CASTING.

 

[Lola701]

LA COUPE!
Voila!
Tbh, it’s a bit of a mess in terms of inspirations and some references are a bit obvious: The « Karl » satin Chanel HC dress from SS2010, the Balenciaga by NG velvet and silk draped tops from FW2008, Coats and pants from FW2005 and a touch of his Callaghan SS2001 top…

That being said, you see and feel the quality in those flare pantsuits. The velvet is to die for!
I’m not very fan of the styling. The dress on Akon deserved better for example.

Overall you get the feeling that the loud 80’s are fighting against the more quiet 70’s feel. And surprisingly, the 80’s, despite being spectacular in terms of techniques and embellishments cannot compete for me against the perfection of those simple suits and dresses.

‘The great thing about Alexandre Vauthier is that is RTW is an adaptation of his Couture. It’s not reasonable for me to buy another pantsuit but it’s fabulous!! Now I can’t wait to discover the collection…

Good cast. Ugly carpet. And he looks good!

 

[LadyJunon]

I've really been enjoying Vauthier's recent collections since his return to the runway at the January'22 Couture shows.

Despite his obvious references to 70s/80s Montana, Mugler, Saint Laurent, Azzaro, etc., his collections never feel like costume. It's quite Alaïa-esque in a way.

Casting is good as always.

 

[tourbillions]

effortless and chic... he needs to be in a major house with a strong archive. balenciaga, givenchy or versace

 

[Phuel]

First things first … I’d take Alexandre in my bed over Jacquemus any day if we want to talk about hot designers ! Rhooo

Second, I agree it’s hit or mess, but I absolutely appreciate his place in the couture world. That dress on Akon … YES ! Look N.5 … the gold … If I were a lady I’d be in that immediately !! All the le smoking looks … my god. Big fan !

Thirdly … Elise, CARMEN, Delphine, etc … GREAT CASTING.

LOL Someone’s thirst needs a huge dose of quenching… You know, they love it when we look at them like meat. When that current Givenchy person was first appointed at the brand— what was his intro…??? Naked shots. But no gheyz cared so he referenced his American “rapper” buddies and how unFrench he was— cuz that’ll get the no homo hypebeasts on your side LMAO

I’ve never been attracted to designers, even if they are handsome, and I can’t think of any that really are. (I know I made a passing remark that I thought Justin O’Shea was hot [thank you Mullet for remembering], but only corny/cheesy/tacky downlow hot. And that guy isn’t a designer anyway, just a hustler that punked Brioni for a hot second before they came to their senses.

Alexander looks a bit like Tony Goldwyn here, who has aged into a very handsome older gentleman. And I like how he is dressed here: just chinos, oxford shirt and runners-- but everything fits so well. Act/dress your age, not your shoe size remains the best advise anyone has ever given in terms of confidence. God, that black tux is sublime…

(…And yes, Lola: That Walmart-blue carpet…)

 

[Salvatore]

LOL Someone’s thirst needs a huge dose of quenching…

LOL ! Yes indeed

 

[Cocteau Stone]

A fair few misses but damn there are some hits in this! That velvet suit is gorgeous and there is just the right amount of shoulder padding in the looks. Impeccable casting too.

He is treading into slightly different design territory here and that's what I appreciate the most. Alexander knows what he's about, but he is also aware that his design ethos is rather expansive so each collection is never truly one note.

 

[Kennnnn]

Overall you get the feeling that the loud 80’s are fighting against the more quiet 70’s feel.

This!

I love that visual tension, and it all feels very very modern.

On hot designers haha, I thought Olivier Theyskens in his prime was very very pretty.

 

[LadyJunon]

On hot designers haha, I thought Olivier Theyskens in his prime was very very pretty.

He still is to be honest.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

He deserves a big house with a strong archive. ( hmm I would enjoy him at Alaia…)

Like some of you said hits and misses but we can’t deny he knows his work and we need designers like him.

 

[TaylorBinque]

With good editing this could have been a knockout. Really love all the pants looks. The satin are great too. It's a very confident collection. And he sure is with that lewk.

 

[LadyJunon]

Show video has dropped:

 

[brandon J pierre]

He deserves a big house with a strong archive. ( hmm I would enjoy him at Alaia…)

Like some of you said hits and misses but we can’t deny he knows his work and we need designers like him.

Oh yes that would be good, but also maybe a sexy update on Givenchy