Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

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[LadyJunon]

Not as strong as his two previous shows.

 

[Salvatore]

I love it !

 

[Phuel]

Shame the neon color-palette is such a disservice and detraction to his creative talent and skilled tailoring. As much as the references are so 80s, his impeccable sense of proportion doesn’t cross that fine line into caricature and costume (those huge shoulders are impressingly convincing as fresh and modern) — something Anthony’s SL still seems stuck in, even with all the production values and sky-is-the-limit presentation. All the money in the world can’t quite disguise the lesser talent at SL… Alexandre could show at a supermarket, and his designs would still impress.

If the obnoxious neons were replaced by that deep dusty rose of the last look, the collection would soar so much higher.

 

[disco54]

Hedi Slimane's last HC couture collection seems to live rent free 24-7 in Vacarello and Vauthiers brains lol

 

[Lola701]

Look 1 and Look 2 are the best things I have seen this entire Couture week! So slick.
The rest is a bit meh…even if exceptionally done. It screams quality.

I want Vauthier at Tom Ford that’s it. I think he needs to play with someone’s aesthetic heritage in order to give something…

That neon gives me headache. It makes me think of Emmanuelle Alt’s ed photographed by Hans Feuer…Which is the definition of a nightmare for me.

 

[gallianostan]

those furs are to die for. the neon is horrendous though.

 

[yslforever]

Hedi Slimane's last HC couture collection seems to live rent free 24-7 in Vacarello and Vauthiers brains lol

It was RTW actually (F/W 2016).

 

[LadyJunon]

Hedi Slimane's last HC couture collection seems to live rent free 24-7 in Vacarello and Vauthiers brains lol

In Vauthier's defence, that leggy, broad shoulder look have always been part of Vauthier's design vocabulary. Especially when you consider his history with Mugler and Gaultier.

 

[jeanclaude]

How many hours spent to make just one of those huge shoulder pads??

 

[Cocteau Stone]

More dusty rose, and make that orange more burnt and sensual and the colours would be far better to digest. The neons make this more rtw than couture in my eyes.

The black dress with the orange lining is a nice subtle ode to Cristobal’s flamenco inspired evening dresses. Very sleek and chic with just the right amount of “playful 80s tackiness” to keep it interesting.

 

[THD96]

I like the first half of the collection, they're sharp and opulent, 80s power dressing done right.

The moment I saw the pink neon coat I'm done. Those neon looks are only to grab the attention of the IG crowd.

It's insane that the couture week has been so weak that AV is the only one that truly delivers for me. But then again he is always consistent.

 

[tourbillions]

he really should be doing gucci or atleast balenciaga.

 

[LadyJunon]

he really should be doing gucci or atleast balenciaga.

I'd like to see him at YSL. It's like an technically upgraded version of Vaccarello's offering.

 

[yslforever]

I'd like to see him at YSL. It's like an technically upgraded version of Vaccarello's offering.

Yes, Vaccarello has little to no technical skills.

 

[WAVES]

a lot of gorgeous pieces but that neon… striking nonetheless.

 

[Phuel]

I want Vauthier at Tom Ford that’s it. I think he needs to play with someone’s aesthetic heritage in order to give something...

…Can you imagine…??? This look alone— with the added decadence of Tom Ford flourishes, sends to me pure fashion OD :sigh:

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[LadyJunon]

The show film:

 

[YohjiAddict]

Too bad he had to include those highlighter colors in the second half, but after a few weeks I’m still thinking about that bottle-green hooded look. The bolero jacket with the exaggerated shoulders and the black dress with the orange lining are also superb. He makes the 80s look convincing for today.