Altuzarra F/W 2025.26 New York

[fashionlov]

vogue

 

[Armani]

Uploaded runway pics to first post <3

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Some looks are gorgeous, some other felt just blatant copies.

It is all over the place like he did not manage to make a definitive choice and ending up showing multiple different silhouettes which are not really coherent with each other.

We are so far from his ‘Carine Roitfeld is my muse’ era. 😂

 

[Avonlea]

In the past american brands would pay french couture houses for rights to replicate their designs and then sell them. This is exactly how this collection feels.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I like it a lot.
From the time where he was copypasting Prada to this you see the effort and the elevation.
I know that makes some women dream.

 

[JohannesL]

His references are all over the place but with the Proenza duo only knocking off specific designers to make a coherent coection, I don't know which direction is the worse.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Still trying to make sense of this brand after all these years of it being in business. Remember when he was all about the tie-dye? Then the Prada-esque split skirts?

It is a “nice” collection. So easy to consume yet there’s zero flavour. I just don’t get it.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

How am I supposed to choose which yarn loop faux fur coat to get when approximately everyone is putting out the same thing ??

 

[Alquimista]

So dated looking. Can't believe this is what passes for "modern" fashion nowadays.

 

[Nimsay]

Some cute stuff. A lot of dupes, way too many.

The best look is the orchid print sheer shirt dress, that would be a spectacular for layering.

 

[Creative]

Let’s be honest, Altuzarra has always copied whatever is trendy. At a time it was Tom Ford, then Prada, now… PP/The Row…

He doesn’t have a signature. I think his signature might be that the way he copies make the garments look kind of cheap and bad finished. Like, it can be good but it ends being almost good and a little bit cheap.

Nevertheless, there are several beautiful pieces in the collection. Just average beautiful, but I can imagine some women would like to wear some of it.

 

[Lola701]

I didn’t expect Tom Ford by Peter Hawkings to be copied ever and already.
Joseph’s moodboards are just random. He copies everything and everybody lol.

I think he deserves to be at an Italian house nevertheless. He can use his talents copying a house’s archives instead of his contemporaries.

 

[Kanzai]

So dated looking. Can't believe this is what passes for "modern" fashion nowadays.

Frankly, that's what the old money/quiet luxury crowds chasing for

 

[jeremydante]

 

[fruitdots]

He's such a peculiar case, because he is more skilled technically than a lot of other designers of his generation, he just has no perspective. I sometimes wonder how he'd have fared as creative director of another brand—something with a substantial archive for him to work with. Maybe Chloe or Rochas would've been... disciplining?

 

[yslforever]

In the past american brands would pay french couture houses for rights to replicate their designs and then sell them. This is exactly how this collection feels.

Yes, a lot of NYFW is still stuck in this Bonwit Teller mindset, but Bonwit Teller never claimed their designs as their own creations.

edit; for the younglings here : Bonwit Teller - Wikipedia

 

[jeremydante]

He's such a peculiar case, because he is more skilled technically than a lot of other designers of his generation, he just has no perspective. I sometimes wonder how he'd have fared as creative director of another brand—something with a substantial archive for him to work with.

This is so true. This collection had a stronger sense, but he usually lacks that. I do feel, there is some asian culture components that speak to this; because a lot of Asian's (Joseph himself is French-Chinese) are constantly aspiring to identities of others to fit in, whether fitting into American ideals or Euro-centric ideals.

Not sure if those who are non-asian would understand this, but it's important to speak up about this. (As an Asian-American, you would only truly understand this being mixed and/or being of Asian culture) I think a lot of the "New Asian" designers as they once called them in New York have long suffered that same dilemma of lacking perspective- it's across the board. Jason Wu, Peter Som, Parabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra- think about it, they all debuted around similar times but they all collectively have seemingly chased the American ideals of fashion, not always bringing a true and unique perspective that speaks directly to their design identity, despite having namesake labels. Even Peter Do, who had the most unique design perspective of the Asian-American designers in recent years didn't stay long at Helmut Lang.

Vera Wang is obviously the Queen, as far as Asian-American fashion dominance. But she's a female and has a storied history in New York City. Just pointing out the link to what you mentioned @fruitdots - your thoughts really perfectly stated it.

Such a lack of perspective. Great reflection.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

This is so true. This collection had a stronger sense, but he usually lacks that. I do feel, there is some asian culture components that speak to this; because a lot of Asian's (Joseph himself is French-Chinese) are constantly aspiring to identities of others to fit in, whether fitting into American ideals or Euro-centric ideals.

Not sure if those who are non-asian would understand this, but it's important to speak up about this. (As an Asian-American, you would only truly understand this being mixed and/or being of Asian culture) I think a lot of the "New Asian" designers as they once called them in New York have long suffered that same dilemma of lacking perspective- it's across the board. Jason Wu, Peter Som, Parabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra- think about it, they all debuted around similar times but they all collectively have seemingly chased the American ideals of fashion, not always bringing a true and unique perspective that speaks directly to their design identity, despite having namesake labels. Even Peter Do, who had the most unique design perspective of the Asian-American designers in recent years didn't stay long at Helmut Lang.

Vera Wang is obviously the Queen, as far as Asian-American fashion dominance. But she's a female and has a storied history in New York City. Just pointing out the link to what you mentioned @fruitdots - your thoughts really perfectly stated it.

Such a lack of perspective. Great reflection.

Yes to everything except Peter Do, he was awful at Helmut Lang, supre pretentious and overrated to begin with (just because he worked under phoebe for a short stint)

 

[fruitdots]

This is so true. This collection had a stronger sense, but he usually lacks that. I do feel, there is some asian culture components that speak to this; because a lot of Asian's (Joseph himself is French-Chinese) are constantly aspiring to identities of others to fit in, whether fitting into American ideals or Euro-centric ideals.

Not sure if those who are non-asian would understand this, but it's important to speak up about this. (As an Asian-American, you would only truly understand this being mixed and/or being of Asian culture) I think a lot of the "New Asian" designers as they once called them in New York have long suffered that same dilemma of lacking perspective- it's across the board. Jason Wu, Peter Som, Parabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra- think about it, they all debuted around similar times but they all collectively have seemingly chased the American ideals of fashion, not always bringing a true and unique perspective that speaks directly to their design identity, despite having namesake labels. Even Peter Do, who had the most unique design perspective of the Asian-American designers in recent years didn't stay long at Helmut Lang.

Vera Wang is obviously the Queen, as far as Asian-American fashion dominance. But she's a female and has a storied history in New York City. Just pointing out the link to what you mentioned @fruitdots - your thoughts really perfectly stated it.

Such a lack of perspective. Great reflection.

And some of these designers (Altuzarra, Jason Wu, and I'd add Alexander Wang) come from pretty substantial wealth, so their work has been bankrolled by family money. I imagine that adds both pressure (to make good on the investment, etc.) and prevents them from taking risks (it's a safer bet to follow the trends of the market).

 

[EDEN21]

I like it a lot.
From the time where he was copypasting Prada to this you see the effort and the elevation.
I know that makes some women dream.

Are we sure that copypasting Prada is a thing of the past...?