Ami Menswear F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

This collection is confusing, he can do some serious editing because this look like 2 different collection cram into one. I don't care the street / business casual looks because everyone is doing it. But I'm interesting in the Bourgois / evening looks because that something new for him, he can explore it more.

It's nothing groundbreaking but in terms of fashion elements and execution of the clothes, I prefer him over Jacquemus.

 

[Lola701]

I like AMI, I like Alexandre, I like the spirit of the house…
I think the beginning gives me very Gucci FW1997. I like a lot of the womenswear pieces and I like the menswear for the most part. The great thing about the brand and it popularity is that you see the clothes in the streets.

This is a little bit more « fashion » but it’s nice.

Indeed, the problem here is the styling. Maybe he should work with Suzanne Koller or even Emmanuelle Alt instead of Carlos… It goes very much all over the place. And it seems like going all over the place is a speciality of Carlos.

 

[Vitamine W]

I love wearing AMI, but I really don't need an AMI runway show. Shameful destruction of capital.

 

[YohjiAddict]

A masterful display of craft compared with that other affordable and trendy designer…but I have to agree: I don’t think this type of fashion benefits from a runway presentation.

The color palette is definitely not my thing, he should have put more thought in it before moving from his “strictly neutral” palette.

 

[tricotineacetat]

As a runway show, this feels very much like a confirmation he's firmly established the brand, with all those top models appearing in his cast - Not a surprise when you read they are planning the opening of 13 (!) AMI shops in 2022!

 

[LostInNJ]

I like AMI, I like Alexandre, I like the spirit of the house…
I think the beginning gives me very Gucci FW1997. I like a lot of the womenswear pieces and I like the menswear for the most part. The great thing about the brand and it popularity is that you see the clothes in the streets.

This is a little bit more « fashion » but it’s nice.

Indeed, the problem here is the styling. Maybe he should work with Suzanne Koller or even Emmanuelle Alt instead of Carlos… It goes very much all over the place. And it seems like going all over the place is a speciality of Carlos.

I agree that it is a bit all over the place, but an ABSOLUTE NO to Suzanne or Emmanuelle. Two old white women stuck in a bubble is NOT what this brand needs. Call Lotta, Call Panos, even. Or a number of other younger stylists that are looking toward the future.

 

[Lola701]

I agree that it is a bit all over the place, but an ABSOLUTE NO to Suzanne or Emmanuelle. Two old white women stuck in a bubble is NOT what this brand needs. Call Lotta, Call Panos, even. Or a number of other younger stylists that are looking toward the future.

I’m more interested in their capacities than what they are. Suzanne Koller is doing an amazing job at Lacoste despite being an « old white woman ».

Alexandre switched from Pau Avia to Carlos Nazario. I would say that the best contribution from Nazario was to bring Piergiorgio (even if he is everywhere anyway).
If you want a big name, goes to those who make sense for the brand…No matter how old or white they are. And if you want a black editor, maybe choose someone more in tune with your sensibility…Dan Sablon maybe.

 

[LostInNJ]

I’m more interested in their capacities than what they are. Suzanne Koller is doing an amazing job at Lacoste despite being an « old white woman ».

Alexandre switched from Pau Avia to Carlos Nazario. I would say that the best contribution from Nazario was to bring Piergiorgio (even if he is everywhere anyway).
If you want a big name, goes to those who make sense for the brand…No matter how old or white they are. And if you want a black editor, maybe choose someone more in tune with your sensibility…Dan Sablon maybe.

I can't say I've looked at Lacoste, but I'll give credit where its due, in that you are saying she is doing an amazing job.

My point with what I said is that he should choose someone who makes sense for the brand, in terms of what he is actually trying to communicate and believes in. He is about his home of Paris (from what people wear on the street and the actual types of people on the street), and youth, and making something chic but cool and attainable. For me, neither of those women represent that. I just think it is time for another shift, the same way it comes with photographers. These women aren't progressive (look at Emmanuelle's Vogue Paris lol) so installing her here, or someone like her wouldn't make any sense. I don't think it needs to be a black editor, specifically, hence why I named Lotta and Panos. Both understand the luxury market, and Lotta; who is very "in" at the moment gets the connection to something youthful and fresh.

 

[THD96]

My point with what I said is that he should choose someone who makes sense for the brand, in terms of what he is actually trying to communicate and believes in. He is about his home of Paris (from what people wear on the street and the actual types of people on the street), and youth, and making something chic but cool and attainable. For me, neither of those women represent that. I just think it is time for another shift, the same way it comes with photographers. These women aren't progressive (look at Emmanuelle's Vogue Paris lol) so installing her here, or someone like her wouldn't make any sense. I don't think it needs to be a black editor, specifically, hence why I named Lotta and Panos. Both understand the luxury market, and Lotta; who is very "in" at the moment gets the connection to something youthful and fresh.

Looking at this collection, Alexandre is evolving, eleven years in he should exploring the bourgeois evening dressing that is new to him than just chasing what "youth" and "cool" at the moments. And Carlos is no longer a good candidate for this direction for the brand. He has the same problem at Lanvin, where the sophisticated allure is being ruined by the street elements.

They are not progressive in what sense? Koller and Alt are great stylists that have a strong POV and a great image maker that can elevate the collection that Carlos failed here. Alt is a bad EIC but she's a great stylist. It's a different job between working at Vogue and working for a brand. At Vogue she gives out the assignments and everyone had to answer to her. While at a brand she has to work with the designer so it will create a balance in her works. She helped Isabel Marant to achieve her signature looks before her VP tenure. Same with Koller, she help to elevate Lacoste, and she also work with A.P.C so you can't say that she doesn't understand what people wearing on the street. And Suzanne M magazine is the most exciting magazine right now in the market.

 

[Lola701]

I can't say I've looked at Lacoste, but I'll give credit where its due, in that you are saying she is doing an amazing job.

My point with what I said is that he should choose someone who makes sense for the brand, in terms of what he is actually trying to communicate and believes in. He is about his home of Paris (from what people wear on the street and the actual types of people on the street), and youth, and making something chic but cool and attainable. For me, neither of those women represent that. I just think it is time for another shift, the same way it comes with photographers. These women aren't progressive (look at Emmanuelle's Vogue Paris lol) so installing her here, or someone like her wouldn't make any sense. I don't think it needs to be a black editor, specifically, hence why I named Lotta and Panos. Both understand the luxury market, and Lotta; who is very "in" at the moment gets the connection to something youthful and fresh.

Ok, i totally understand your point…

That being said, we shouldn’t look at that from such a narrow POV.

A magazine is an exercise de style I would say but what I think is interesting is how timeless the vision of those women are.
And they are incredible brand strategist in a way that Nazario isn’t.

Progressive does not mean anything in fashion in a way because everybody has tu survive and to adapt to the times…

For me, the biggest strength of Alt or Koller is their range. They can do extreme luxe and contemporary with the same standards. And they understand the French aesthetic.

Panos for me doesn’t make sense. He has a real sensibility that is maybe more edgy and less in tune with those practical clothes of AMI. And Lotta? Not convincing…

I think what AMI has to offer is being French. A new way or cool way to be French like APC or Sandro was in the past but in a more elevated level. So they needs someone who understand both sensibilities.

But I get what you mean. But for me the work around the brand is very much different from the vision of a magazine.

 

[MulletProof]

I’m more interested in their capacities than what they are.

??....skills or experience?! so passé! that is not "in" at all!! everywhere you go in life, but especially in an inconsequential and vain topic centered on speculating just what could benefit a fashion label, why a grocery store arranges mayo a certain way, is it sunny enough today or nah... always make sure you secure your opinion with the ~diversity~ discourse, that should automatically elevate it above others', god forbid anyone thinks it's *just* an opinion or worse, that you're so morally bankrupt to think about fashion, no, you're also thinking about people of color! the disenfranchised! lack of representation! so let's deem some women inept for a job because they're stupid old hags (I'm progressive like that!), but plug in 'white' so they know you mean well and it's about justice, but also.. you know who could be really great in the position? this white stylist I know who last had great ideas in 2010, who has built a career inspired by white subcultures and is basically Alt's age, he's a man so.. it's almost like he's young and fresh again!. There’s also this Russian pushing 40 whose range is confined to styling everyone as a gopnik cause poor Russians look hilarious. Just some cool, youthful ideas I have. Hope you didn't think I was thinking black, I wouldn't go to such lengths, just.. how to say I want this trendier but without ever saying I want trends but still separating myself from the shallowness of this topic while also participating in it!


Good show, the old models almost kill this massively youthful collection but.. changes are coming!

 

[LostInNJ]

??....skills or experience?! so passé! that is not "in" at all!! everywhere you go in life, but especially in an inconsequential and vain topic centered on speculating just what could benefit a fashion label, why a grocery store arranges mayo a certain way, is it sunny enough today or nah... always make sure you secure your opinion with the ~diversity~ discourse, that should automatically elevate it above others', god forbid anyone thinks it's *just* an opinion or worse, that you're so morally bankrupt to think about fashion, no, you're also thinking about people of color! the disenfranchised! lack of representation! so let's deem some women inept for a job because they're stupid old hags (I'm progressive like that!), but plug in 'white' so they know you mean well and it's about justice, but also.. you know who could be really great in the position? this white stylist I know who last had great ideas in 2010, who has built a career inspired by white subcultures and is basically Alt's age, he's a man so.. it's almost like he's young and fresh again!. There’s also this Russian pushing 40 whose range is confined to styling everyone as a gopnik cause poor Russians look hilarious. Just some cool, youthful ideas I have. Hope you didn't think I was thinking black, I wouldn't go to such lengths, just.. how to say I want this trendier but without ever saying I want trends but still separating myself from the shallowness of this topic while also participating in it!


Good show, the old models almost kill this massively youthful collection but.. changes are coming!

LOL...right on the nose. You are living in my brain. Its eerie.

God, I love it here. I'll just lurk from here on out.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I like AMI, I like Alexandre, I like the spirit of the house…
I think the beginning gives me very Gucci FW1997. I like a lot of the womenswear pieces and I like the menswear for the most part. The great thing about the brand and it popularity is that you see the clothes in the streets.

This is a little bit more « fashion » but it’s nice.

Indeed, the problem here is the styling. Maybe he should work with Suzanne Koller or even Emmanuelle Alt instead of Carlos… It goes very much all over the place. And it seems like going all over the place is a speciality of Carlos.

In my apartment buildings elevator I spotted someone wearing a pair of Ami jeans. I conversed with him for a few moment regarding the product and the brand, he told me he purchased them at Barneys . I brought out my camel, wide legged virgin wool trousers after seeing the denim. Love the brand, and AM himself, it is true net a porte without any confusion.

For me this was not his best collection, put simply. I much prefer his 90s throwback from the Fall 2021 showing and the Spring 2021 collection as well.

They must invest heavily in quality control, I have yet to see or wear any piece that is poorly made.