Azzaro Haute Couture F/W 2021.22 Paris

[susseinmcswanny]

Expensive made to measure ready to wear...

you can actually buy some of his azzaro couture online lol

also been thinking about this for a while and it makes me sad bc I know he can do SO much better

 

[donyan]

Kelly Clarkson tacky mess

Please leave Kelly out of this

 

[tricotineacetat]

Unrelated to this particular collection, but I get the feeling Azzaro is a tricky maison to take on, since it does not belong to either one of the big conglomerates and has a pretty niche market share to cater to. The little we could see so far ended up mostly on Chinese celebrities and with PR budgets limited, there is only so far you can go with relatively commercial eveningwear like this - This is not Rochas or Ricci where the shows really had a transporting quality and the gowns were out-of-this-world!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ You know, the more I think about it, the more this feels authentic as another component of who Olivier is…

He’s shown how impressively versatile he is: His debut was so severe and punk — it was unlike anything he would later conjure up for Rochas, then Ricci, and then Theory. And now this direction for Azzaro HC seems like him understanding who he’s designing for, and giving his clientele his narrative of that glitzy Dynasty/Dallas exuberance that, I may not be a fan of— but I absolutely find impressive as another side of who he is. This feels very much as another lifestyle he’s able to design for, rather than always be in that introverted, impossibly romantic dream of a gamine that many only ever accept from him. He’s becoming one of the most versatile designers working today without losing his identity to gimmicks. And Azzaro feels like the extroverted, exhibitionist partygirl to his shy, enigmatic loner waif of his own label’s. And both— like all his past conjurings of women, feel as real as they are ideals. And, I really dig the concept that there is not one ideal woman for him-- but that there are ideal women.

 

[MulletProof]

Please leave Kelly out of this

sorry since u been gone I could breath for the first time and make these comparisons..

 

[tricotineacetat]

^^^ You know, the more I think about it, the more this feels authentic as another component of who Olivier is…

He’s shown how impressively versatile he is: His debut was so severe and punk — it was unlike anything he would later conjure up for Rochas, then Ricci, and then Theory. And now this direction for Azzaro HC seems like him understanding who he’s designing for, and giving his clientele his narrative of that glitzy Dynasty/Dallas exuberance that, I may not be a fan of— but I absolutely find impressive as another side of who he is. This feels very much as another lifestyle he’s able to design for, rather than always be in that introverted, impossibly romantic dream of a gamine that many only ever accept from him. He’s becoming one of the most versatile designers working today without losing his identity to gimmicks. And Azzaro feels like the extroverted, exhibitionist partygirl to his shy, enigmatic loner waif of his own label’s. And both— like all his past conjurings of women, feel as real as they are ideals. And, I really dig the concept that there is not one ideal woman for him-- but that there are ideal women.

I just don't really feel these clothes (and the PR around it) will help to create the buzz needed to elevate Azzaro to a place it isn't already at this point - A lot of these looks would have blended in well with the merchandise that is already sold on their website (that the in-house design team conceived), the unmistakable Theyskens touch is missing - For me, this collection could have just as well been designed by a variety of creators, from his predecessor Maxime Simoens to Peter Dundas.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes absolutely: If his name wasn’t attached to this, no one would be the wiser that this isn’t Dundas. Likely that was the intention to keep their roster of established clientele happy. And I suspect Olivier knew what he was signing up for. Designs like these are purely hedonistic and superficial, but still beautiful in its context of big social events and/or exclusive afterhours dens that seem so far removed from his signature. I’m glad he’s able to design for either end of the fashion spectrum in that sense. It all feels and looks like his world is so much more creatively diverse and expensive with this offering.

And some of the details are fascinating. I don’t know if I have anywhere to wear this to, but I wouldn’t mind owning it if the opportunity came up. It’s reminiscent of armour/chainmail— but also beading… Very interesting how the individual links(?) move freely, giving it an almost bugle bead mobility:

VOGUE.COM

 

[Creative]

Looks like he doesn't even try anymore. HOW LAZY WAS THAT.

I feel like Theyskens is a product of 2008 and there's no room for him anymore in fashion. I feel sad for him but it is what it is.