Azzedine Alaïa S/S 13 Paris

[Chanelcouture09]

*10magazine.com via International Herald Tribune.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

A Taste of Honey From Azzedine Alaïa
By SUZY MENKES
Published: October 15, 2012

The effect was of a beehive, delicately positioned to round out the hips; or perhaps a folding Japanese lantern created with origami.

But backstage after his private show in Paris for friends and family last week, Azzedine Alaïa gave a different explanation of the honey bee dresses.

“I remembered a table designed by Marc Newson,” said the designer, reaching for his phone to display a photo of a red honeycomb table that had inspired the knit dresses.

Although Monica Bellucci, in a shiny black crocodile trench, cut a striking front row figure — and despite brassiere tops, harnesses and a few pieces partly fashioned out of leather — the bulk of the Alaïa summer 2013 collection was in knit.

But the combined skills of the French designer and the Italian ready-to-wear factory he works with produced work so fine that it looked like lace on a tunic with a fringed hem and further fringing at the ankles of pants.

“Relaxez-vous,” was the message on the soundtrack as the show opened, the dogs accompanying clients pricked up their ears and Mr. Alaïa began a game of proportions. Cropped tops, leaving a space of bared flesh, or ribbing creating a midriff focus, allowed the designer to change hemline lengths and silhouettes.

The beehive skirts were short and curvy, as the models walked the studio runway in high heels, while other dresses were straight, elongated and, indeed, relaxed, as decorative flat sandals peeped out.

Another curvy effect was created with godets — a way to build shape into the torso. Meanwhile, colors ranged from the Parisian women’s favored black to shades of pink from watermelon to vin rosé and fuchsia.

So long was the clapping that the dogs burst into barks and the models, smiling happily, did a second round. But Mr. Alaïa remained backstage in the studio where his wonders are created with such intense love of craft and sensitivity to modernity.

*nytimes.com

 

[lelaid]

i want more! why must he always tease us? alaïa does origami? i need to see this!

 

[AnaO]

How exciting! Can't wait to see pictures!

 

[TianCouture]

link to video: http://www.france24.com/en/20121018-MEDIATV-FASHION-AZZEDINE-ALAÏA,-A-LIVING-LEGEND

 

[Phuel]

Alaia will always do his own thing, but I think his current output pales by comparison to his work in the early to mid 90s. The 90s-silhouette was a perfection of structure morphing and melding seamlessly to hug and flatter every curve on a woman's body was masterful. This looks tepid in comparison.

Anyway, I love that last clip of the video TianCouture linked to with Alaia desperately clinging to the walls backstage, refusing to face the audience as he's being lovingly pushed out. He looks like a cat refusing to take a bath.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Yes more please!!! I like what I'm seeing