Balmain Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Balmain Haute Couture S/S 2023 Paris

It's very... scrappy. Why, several garments look like fused animal remains, dirt and straw - quite literally. Which haute couture client has a desire to appear as if they're wearing roadkill? Ridiculous footwear as well.
 
It's very interesting if we focus on textiles/fabric manipulation only. I actually love that they look like dirt or animal remains. Unfortunately he doesn't have the sensibility to use them in the right way. Even the wildest couture garment should compliment the wearer's body shape. Olivier loves to pile everything on and make it into a gown which results in monstrosities like the ones posted above.
 
I like this. I think he has great ideas, but he doesn't know how to fully execute them. If he can work with more couture techniques, I think he can achieve great things.
This collection reminds me of Lee's first few seasons at Givenchy when he was still new to couture.

If Olivier wants to be a serious couturier he needs to push himself in terms of POV. His couture needs to be more than glorified red carpet dressing.
He also needs a real couture atelier. We see that with the JPG Collab, by working with an established couture atelier he can create a great couture collection.
 
He also needs a real couture atelier. We see that with the JPG Collab, by working with an established couture atelier he can create a great couture collection.
must say i'm sceptical of the claim that his take on gaultier was great. i thought it was rather weak.
 
Borderlands and Mad Max with a dose of Dune, but he's a bit late to that party. And some of Gaultier's camouflage print ideas definitely seeped their way in.

There are some great textures and fabrications going on but he doesn't have the full knack to pull it all off. And they're in the most basic of silhouettes so rather than highlighting the craft of the textiles, they really drag it down because it all looks so poorly resolved. Pretty baffling considering Olivier has done some rather marvelous and intricate textiles that look far more refined than this earlier in his tenure and by comparison this looks so dense and cheap.

He's still very naive, which is a shame because there's always been something there that's right but he doesn't know how to pull it back to ground it enough nowadays.
 
It's very interesting if we focus on textiles/fabric manipulation only. I actually love that they look like dirt or animal remains. Unfortunately he doesn't have the sensibility to use them in the right way. Even the wildest couture garment should compliment the wearer's body shape. Olivier loves to pile everything on and make it into a gown which results in monstrosities like the ones posted above.

such insightful comment! agree with all, he does seem to lack this skill.

I had a proper thorough look and there is indeed a good concept just not greatly executed. the silhouettes should be stronger. they are there but not displayed well enough.

would love to see the last white gown in an editorial or cover… :innocent:
 
This is a Project Runway collection from someone who makes it to the finale after being in the bottom two every week prior and is the first one eliminated in the finale.

The first thing that came to mind was that "Couture" dress that Chritian Siriano made.

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ew.com
 

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