"Focus | 07 October 2016
IN CONVERSATION WITH BELLA FREUD
Creator of cult knitwear, we visited the British designer at her studio to talk about building her brand and finding a creative balance."
Bella Freud. © Ella Parkes
I’ve always worked with knitwear but I didn’t get into using words until I was making the film Hideous Man (with John Malkovich). I was looking to create some sort of combination between branded merchandise and beatnik inspired language that is sparse but very captivating. I’ve always been interested in the power of words and how you can affect people in a certain way with the language you use. I didn’t know exactly what I was looking to produce but the result was my first word jumper ‘Ginsberg Is God’, ‘Godard is Dog’, which was just a slip of the tongue! I love the ambiguity of the phrases, is it meaningful or is it just bullsh*t? I never use the term slogan. A slogan tends to be an instruction, I want the words to have an independent meaning.
Bella’s moodboard in her West London studio. © Ella Parkes
There is something fascinating in the absurdity of fashion, people can do what they want with it, and it’s there to be enjoyed and experimented with. Someone like Anna Dello Russo is thrilling, to see someone so larger than life. She clearly loves it and I think it’s fabulous.
The creation of the ‘Ginsberg Is God’ jumper was a key moment for me. I wasn’t going to do any production around it, but then Kate (Moss) wore it and it just took off. It seemed to really capture people’s imaginations in a very organic way."
Today this kind of hype tends to be planned and orchestrated. The success of Ginsberg gave me the confidence to stick to the things I liked; whether it’s ‘fashion’ or not is irrelevant. I’m not trying to make fashion, I’m simply trying to hone my look, which took me a long time to perfect. I get my inspiration from Jane Rainey and those girls in the late 60s who just wore things a certain way and it just worked.. they had this essence, and that’s what I’m trying to capture.
A Greta Bellamacina and Robert Montgomery poetry book. © Ella Parkes
My favourite jumper would be a toss up between ‘Ginsberg is God’ and ‘The Last Poets’. They’re like my first borns. The 1970 jumper was a random one, it’s funny how some things just take off. ‘Je t’aime Jane’ came about because I had an answer phone message from Jane Birkin’s agent saying that Jane loved the ‘Gainsbourg is God’ jumper. I thought about those crushes you have at school, revering certain girls and the messages we used to carve into our desks. Je t’aime Jane could have been one of them.
I fell into making films almost by accident. I decided to do a film instead of a catwalk show for my second collection. I just thought it seemed like a good idea because it’d be cheaper, but it also enabled me to create the sort of atmosphere that interested me without the constraints of a catwalk. Later on in my career I realised I’d put together a body of work without having actually intended to. When you start something and it turns into something much bigger, it’s obviously very enjoyable and it gives you a real buzz. When it comes to development I’m always incredibly thoughtful and tentative, at first I was incredibly resistant to doing anything in colour. The key is making it grow without diluting what works.
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